Looking to purchase timing chain tools

[Rover Range]

They do have a lot of dust. Probably have to use trash bags to cover the engine.
Works great on the parts that are removed.

 

[itsaguything]

We have a dust and water resistant engine and engine compartment… (Unless of course replacement parts are chinesium) I pressure wash my engine compartment all the time.
I would just wash the soda off, afterwards.

Truth be known, I do the jags too. Never had an issue in 25 years with any of my cars.

 

[Longtrail]

OK, so you're advocating to soda blast it (once things are nicely sealed up off course), blow away the dust and then potentially pressure wash it to clean off any residue? I likewise pressure wash my engines... I really like the idea of cleaning up the engine as it looks dirty!

 

[16FujiDisco]

Have you completed this job yet? I would be very interested to hear how it went for you and any recommendations that you might have. I have 160,000 KM on my 2013 5.0L and I know at some point this job will have to be done. My local indy shop quote was 7K last i heard (before covid) probably north of that now.

Check out Lost Cause Ranch on YouTube; he has very thorough videos of all the major LR issues. I just watched one of his on timing chains a couple weeks ago.

 

[Longtrail]

Yeah - was watching the same video last night (but didn't finish it as I fell asleep - all the stress...)! Also Mountain Views garage is putting out some great videos, he strikes me as a super nice dude. Here you go:

Mountain Views Garage

We are a family that likes to work on all types of things and try out some of our ideas. [email protected] P.O. Box 353 Wellington, NV 89444

www.youtube.com

 

[Longtrail]

Last night I removed the coil connectors and bank 1 (passenger side in the US) coils and also got the injectors unplugged. I tried to remove the fuel rail but it wasn't having any of it so I gave up and started looking at YouTube! It looks like some leverage might be the best way to go (and also some penetrating oil); need to figure this one out if anyone has any ideas? I also did some more cleanup of the compoents I've already removed (throttle body), intake manifold, etc. Progress albeit slow... I also ordered a bunch or parts for the timing chain; here's a partial list:

 

[Rover Range]

Use this on the fuel rail. No penetrant required.
After removing the fuel rail, be sure to blow out the spark plug cavities. Don't want all that trash in the engine.

 

[Longtrail]

OK, thank you, what are you resting against to provide the pivot point?

 

[Rover Range]

The webbed areas on the valve cover.
Doesn't take much force.

 

[Longtrail]

Thanks - I got both fuel rails out this evening, on the driver side I used the webbed area that holds the bolt for the coil but struggled with injector number 8 (the one closest to the driver); in the end I wrapped a piece of rope around the inlet portion of the rail (for injector 8) and used that to pull! The passenger side I used a pry bar that's about 1.5" wide and pulled it laterally rather than back and forth like you usually would, I used this rotational motion to leverage the rail out:

The most interesting part of the evening was disconnecting the electrical connector on the passenger side fuel rail, here it is in situ:

Without knowing how to disconnect it I struggled for quite a long time; the secret is to push at the very back of the connector, so here (see the red arrow):

and then slide it off. Here it is in relation to the fuel rail (this connects to the same wiring loom as the coils and injectors):