Thank you for documenting this so well.
Looking to purchase timing chain tools
- Thread starter Longtrail
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Next issue... I pulled a single injector using the slide hammer, it came out after about 6 or 7 attempts (not too bad) but I have a ton of stuff down in the injector hole, this is making me nervous! What do others do to (1) stop stuff going in to the cylinder, and, (2) clean up the mess??? I'm thinking something like a cotton swab to plug the hole and some sort of vacuum attachment.
I believe there's a seal below all of this that needs to be replaced, I'm wondering if something like this is all four seals or just one:
lr014345
Does anyone know, the image shows this (which suggest all four (for one bank)):
Thanks...
I believe there's a seal below all of this that needs to be replaced, I'm wondering if something like this is all four seals or just one:
lr014345
Does anyone know, the image shows this (which suggest all four (for one bank)):
Thanks...
I'd try a shop vac across part of the opening, I've had good luck with that where the gap lets air in to circulate and pick up the debris.. Was this all gunk that was underneath the injector so you couldn't remove it beforehand? Maybe give it a vacuum once the injector starts moving, but before it's all the way out? Or does it just come out in one go with the slide hammer?
Thanks @ftillier - I'm in hindsight mode! I didn't realize the hole was going to be so messy. On realizing this as a potential issue I didn't attempt to pull any of the other injectors. I will try the shop vac. What the picture sort of captures is the caked-on dirt down the entire length of the injector bore. In a perfect world I would have something that can clean out this dirt before pulling the injector. I think it's possibly to vacuum while slider hammering but ideally do as much cleanup before pulling the injector. Looking for thoughts/tips on this next challenge!
Seriously - every night I go to bed with the next problem on my mind... The other one is how to service these injectors; I may start a new post on that as I didn't find a good post yet walking through the process; like different approaches such as DIY or sending out...
I'm hugely grateful to this community and hopefully leaving some good ideas for others that follow...
Seriously - every night I go to bed with the next problem on my mind... The other one is how to service these injectors; I may start a new post on that as I didn't find a good post yet walking through the process; like different approaches such as DIY or sending out...
I'm hugely grateful to this community and hopefully leaving some good ideas for others that follow...
Rover Range
Full Access Member
It's always a good idea to blow out the spark plug and injector cavities with compressed air.
Take a woodeN dowel that fits tight into the injector port and blow out with compressed air.
You would also need this tool to install and resize the injector teflon seals.
Take a woodeN dowel that fits tight into the injector port and blow out with compressed air.
You would also need this tool to install and resize the injector teflon seals.
Last edited:
Thanks. Any thoughts on where to find such a dowl? I don't have a wood lathe otherwise I'd try and make something. I'm pondering other ideas...
"You would also need this tool to install and resize the injector teflon seals."
Can you clarify what tool?
Tools exist for bore cleaning but they don't have anything for plugging the hole; or I didn't find a kit yet, e.g.:
Amazon
For the injector seals, I see the kits, e.g.:
Crying out at the cost :-(, ($23.09 X 8 = $184.72)
"You would also need this tool to install and resize the injector teflon seals."
Can you clarify what tool?
Tools exist for bore cleaning but they don't have anything for plugging the hole; or I didn't find a kit yet, e.g.:
Amazon
For the injector seals, I see the kits, e.g.:
Land Rover Fuel Injector Seal Kit - Bosch LR037089
Land Rover Fuel Injector Seal Kit - Bosch LR037089
www.fcpeuro.com
Crying out at the cost :-(, ($23.09 X 8 = $184.72)
hardware store usually has a selection of different diameter dowels. See if a #2 pencil will do the trick, the taper from the sharpener will come in handy (assuming the pencil isn't smaller than the hole!)
. Also, saw this on Amazon; this is along the lines of what I was thinking!FWIW - a pencil is too small to block the injector hole, anyway, all injectors are out (I left PB Blaster in the holes over night) - it wasn't too bad so I feel I got lucky, the max slides on the slide hammer must been about twenty on injector 6, most were less than ten.
I've yet to really clean the injector bores but purchased a vacuum adapter kit to suck out as much stuff as possible, it's not perfect but did the job. Next step was getting some of the water hoses out the way (the ones that connect to the heater core inside the vehicle) - there are four push type connectors way back in the firewall that are a pain in the a** to remove (four because I have an HSE with the rear heating system). I'm changing all hoses and cross members at the same time.
Today I've taken off the passenger side valve cover and the corresponding cam cover. I'm in the middle of the driver side valve cover but need to figure out the rear bolts by the firewall. Here's the passenger side:
Next question... I turned the engine clockwise a few times to see if I could get the timing marks to line up; so far I've not been successful; could this mean that the factory don't bother lining up the marks as they do it all day every day or I should just keep spinning until things do line up? I'm pretty certain that the timing has not moved as the engine was running well before embarking on this project (no codes or any other weird behavior). If folks need pictures while I'm in there let me know...
I've yet to really clean the injector bores but purchased a vacuum adapter kit to suck out as much stuff as possible, it's not perfect but did the job. Next step was getting some of the water hoses out the way (the ones that connect to the heater core inside the vehicle) - there are four push type connectors way back in the firewall that are a pain in the a** to remove (four because I have an HSE with the rear heating system). I'm changing all hoses and cross members at the same time.
Today I've taken off the passenger side valve cover and the corresponding cam cover. I'm in the middle of the driver side valve cover but need to figure out the rear bolts by the firewall. Here's the passenger side:
Next question... I turned the engine clockwise a few times to see if I could get the timing marks to line up; so far I've not been successful; could this mean that the factory don't bother lining up the marks as they do it all day every day or I should just keep spinning until things do line up? I'm pretty certain that the timing has not moved as the engine was running well before embarking on this project (no codes or any other weird behavior). If folks need pictures while I'm in there let me know...
I would expect the timing marks on the gears to line up every two revolutions. Timing marks on the chain no so much.
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