Looking to purchase timing chain tools

[Longtrail]

I'm back and working again on the project albeit as a very slow pace... FWIW I posted in this thread last night about removing the starter motor:

Changing Starter Motor on LR4

Had a look around the web and cannot locate anything specific to changing the starter motor on a 2012 LR4 (5.0). Found a few youtube clips on Range Rovers and LR3's but not the LR4. Anyone done this themselves and if so, any tips? Cheers

www.landroverworld.org

I tried turning the motor over last night to get everything aligned for timing; I got bank 1 (passenger side US) aligned in terms of the chain and the VVT's (I can't see the mark on the chain guide yet as I've not removed the pulley) but bank 2 was not aligned so I figure I'll just get it aligned with the tools as suggested by Range Rover above (I'm a slow learner! Actually this has me slightly terrified!).

Crankshaft - Position is TDC (Top Dead Center) on piston 1 (passenger side (US) very front of the vehicle piston); I can then use the lock tool to validate this position.

Camshafts - I understand that the very back of the camshafts have a small square type mark that needs to face in a particular direction and then install the two camshaft locking tools. The camshaft locking tool has a small movable plate that I guess inserts into the slot at the very back of each individual camshaft. I think photographing this is challenging but once I get there I'll see what I can do.

I still need to remove the crankshaft pulley and also change the rear crossover, clean the heads, etc...

 

[Longtrail]

Here's an image of the camshaft alignment from this video, at approximately 30m and 52 seconds - he mentions the boxed text facing down.

And with the locking tool in place:

Crank position sensor lock tool (fits in an unseen square hole):

Crank lock tool where the starter motor is removed:

 

[Longtrail]

Hi Folks - Rear crossover pipe done this evening, people are not joking when they say the job is a pain in the a55! It's doable but lots of fussing to get the bolts out, I found a longer extension allowed my ratchet further back in the firewall area allowing me to get more degrees rotation each turn - still it's not a fun job! The bolts are now cranked back up too 10Nm.

Next question, I think I have the crank in the correct timed position, can somebody confirm that "B" in the following image is the correct tool for the LR4 5.0L V8?

Looking through the crank position sensor hole it looks like the holes are all square; is it the case that one hole is slightly bigger than all the rest? I was able to install tool "B" having installed a breaker bar on the crank pulley (facing in the downward position) and rotating ever so slightly back and forth around the TDC position; tool "B" fit with no issues.

Same question for the crank locking tool that is inserted in the starter motor hole, I know the image above uses tool C; is that correct for the LR4 5.0L V8?

Thanks.

 

[Longtrail]

FWIW, here are some images of the timing before removing the crank pulley, chains, etc. I think the engine may be in the correct position but won't know more until I can see the timing mark on the guides. Here's the driver side:

And passenger side:

 

[Longtrail]

Any thoughts folks on A, B, C and D in my post above? I'm getting close to undoing the crank bolt and want to double check I'm headed in the right direction - Thanks.

 

[Rover Range]

B and C are for the 5.0L

 

[Longtrail]

Awesome - thank you. I will post updates; I just purchased two M10 nuts that fit on the two starter motor bolts so I have everything needed to lock down the crank. Will eat my spinach so I can get the crank pulley bolt out!...

 

[Longtrail]

Here's what the locking tool C looks like when installed, I have a cheap little borescope camera so thought I'd post what it looks like in place:

From the outside here's the fixture in place on the crank:

With the tools B and C in place I then installed the crank pulley tool (supported underneath with a hydraulic jack and a 2 x 4):

And removed the crank pulley bolt... AND BOY is that sucker tight! I had a 1/2" breaker bar; a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter and then the huge socket that comes with the kit. The bolt is marked 12.9 (it's not easy to see this):

Which means we have to crank in the clockwise direction when viewed from the front of the vehicle (it's left hand thread); I won't lie, this was scary (for me)! Anyway, it came out with the help of a rather large extension to the breaker bar.

 

[Longtrail]

Next question - I read in a previous thread that the threaded shaft used to remove the crank pulley may be shorter in some kits; I'm really trying to avoid removing the radiator so I'm exploring shortening the shaft that came with the kit I purchased, so here's the shaft (11"):

The left hand thread portion is 3 3/4":

The normal thread portion is 6 1/4":

What I'm wondering is the length of other tools that are used without needing to remove the radiator, I'm trying to figure out if I can shorten the length of the shaft? Can somebody measure their equivalent tool and offer some guidance? Thanks.

 

[Longtrail]

This thread implies also shortening the center bolt:

https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/diy-timing-chain.31050/post-214575

Have others done this, what thread get's shortened, the left or right hand thread???