Rover Range
Full Access Member
Timing chain marks could take up to 30 revolutions.
Looking to purchase timing chain tools
- Thread starter Longtrail
- Start date
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OK, Thanks, guess I'll need to eat my spinach tonight! Is this a fools errand? I have yet to undo the crank bolt; I was thinking to get it lined up with the timing marks (even if it takes 30 revolutions); then install the crankshaft pulley remover (but not the aligning tools yet - as I don't want to put load through them while trying to undo the crank bolt); remove the crankshaft bolt/pulley and then lock up the engine per the alignment toolkit. Does this sound like a reasonable approach?
I'm trying to figure out why it takes 30 revolutions to re-align and it's hurting my head! Two revolutions of the crank is 1 revolution of the respective cams is that correct? Need to go back to basics (suck, squeeze, bang, blow)...
I'm trying to figure out why it takes 30 revolutions to re-align and it's hurting my head! Two revolutions of the crank is 1 revolution of the respective cams is that correct? Need to go back to basics (suck, squeeze, bang, blow)...
Rover Range
Full Access Member
The timing chain has an odd number of links. Hence the 30 revolutions.
The flywheel needs to be locked to remove the crank bolt. The bolt is left hand thread. Clockwise to remove.
I use a long 3/4" breaker bar from Northern Tools to remove the bolt.
The flywheel needs to be locked to remove the crank bolt. The bolt is left hand thread. Clockwise to remove.
I use a long 3/4" breaker bar from Northern Tools to remove the bolt.
Thanks Rover Range - the odd link makes sense; also thanks for all the other tips. I only have a 1/2" breaker bar so I've purchased an adapter (1/2" female to 3/4" male). Left hand thread when the bolt is marked with 12.9 but this is also what I'm assuming. Curious why the crank has to be locked, can you clarify?
Also, why do we only ever turn the engine clockwise, what goes wrong if you go anti-clockwise (just curious, I will follow this guideline).
Also, FYI - I have to put the project on hold as I need to travel to the UK tomorrow; will be back in a week. Both valve covers are off, rear crossover and disassembly of the crank pulley will follow. I'm also doing a lot of cleaning of parts as they come off.
Also, why do we only ever turn the engine clockwise, what goes wrong if you go anti-clockwise (just curious, I will follow this guideline).
Also, FYI - I have to put the project on hold as I need to travel to the UK tomorrow; will be back in a week. Both valve covers are off, rear crossover and disassembly of the crank pulley will follow. I'm also doing a lot of cleaning of parts as they come off.
scapistron
Full Access Member
High pressure fuel pump cam shaft is designed to only rotate in the one direction. It can become out of sync if rotated the wrong way. I'm sure Land Rover has a special tool you can pop in the access hole for the torque converter.
12.9 is just the bolt strength rating.
12.9 is just the bolt strength rating.
Rover Range
Full Access Member
Crank needs to be locked to allow removal of the crank bolt. This method doesn't put stress on the camshaft drive train. The crank bolt is ti
Also used to determine whether left hand or right hand threads. 10.9 would be right hand threads.
Rover Range
Full Access Member
The crank bolt is tightened to 148 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 270 degrees.
The crank is locked so when you're removing the crank bolt ,you don't transfer this force to the cam drivetrain. The timing chain will probably snap.
If you are replacing the chains. When disassembling, there's no need to align the timing chain links with the timing marks on the guides etc.
Just use the alignment tools and lock everything down, before disassembly.
Turning the crank counter clockwise will cause the chain to jump time, and possibly come off.
Thank you Rover Range and scapistron.
Understood (esp. the tightening procedure - which sounds really scary!), but if you have the crank pulley removal toolkit then surely this takes place of locking down the crank to stop anything moving. I'll do as you say, just trying to understand, for sure I don't want to put a huge load through the chains or anything else, sorry about the lack of image quality but this tool:
Understood (esp. the tightening procedure - which sounds really scary!), but if you have the crank pulley removal toolkit then surely this takes place of locking down the crank to stop anything moving. I'll do as you say, just trying to understand, for sure I don't want to put a huge load through the chains or anything else, sorry about the lack of image quality but this tool:
Understood that I could just lock down the engine (cams and crank), I was just looking for that extra peace of mind that replicating what's already there would bring... I know I'm being super cautious but that lets me sleep at night given this is the first time I've done this!
My motivation for asking this question is when it comes to locking the engine in place, I know insertion of the timing plug tool can be tricky and people say to slightly wiggle the crank pulley bolt back and forth which would mean every so slightly going anti-clockwise... Perhaps I'm over thinking it, also trying to be super careful!
Rover Range
Full Access Member
To be honest. I (along with everyone else that I know) only use the flywheel timing tool to lock the crank.
You just can't be all aggressive when breaking the crank bolt loose.
In reality. once the crank and cams are in time. The position of the chain timing marks are irrelevant. The gold colored links on the cam chain are not symmetrical anyway. They are there to make sure the camshaft VVTs are in time when you pull the grenade pin on the cam chain tensioners.
Turning the crank a couple degrees the wrong way won't hurt anything.
Like they say, you can't rush a fine wine.
Take your time.
You just can't be all aggressive when breaking the crank bolt loose.
In reality. once the crank and cams are in time. The position of the chain timing marks are irrelevant. The gold colored links on the cam chain are not symmetrical anyway. They are there to make sure the camshaft VVTs are in time when you pull the grenade pin on the cam chain tensioners.
Turning the crank a couple degrees the wrong way won't hurt anything.
Like they say, you can't rush a fine wine.
Take your time.
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