Also you may not need to splice, there is likely a way to release the pins from the connector, allowing you to swap just the plastic housing (unless the wires themselves took some damage)
Serpentine/Accessory belt failure on a very wet, dark MI road in the middle of nowhere...
- Thread starter Longtrail
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- accessory belt serpentine
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Yep - exactly, I don't see the point in spending lots of $$$ if there's more fundamental issue; the cooling system refresh will all coincide with timing chains as well... I'm ah 102K miles and don't know the history of the parts; chains are slightly noisy!
itsaguything
Full Access Member
Sell you an engine wiring harness!?!?! i can’t believe they suggested that!
Rover Range
Full Access Member
Unreal.
Especially when the connector is available.
Too late but I don't think it was feasible anyway... Still, something isn't right as I got these fault codes :-(. The good news is that the engine is running and seems to be OK, although it's still early days.
P2185-17 and P065C-00; the first is the sensor, the second perhaps an issue with the changing system? I have an engine light on I suspect it's for the first issue... I did see the charging system fault but that disappeared.
Given the damage to the old wiring connector it wasn't totally clear which wire is which (there's only two wires so I had a 50% chance of getting it right); I tried to apply as much logic is possible but maybe my splice has the wires incorrectly connected? The temperature sensor itself was damaged but this appears to be more cosmetic than functional; I have a new one arriving tomorrow so will try that first before looking at the wires! In hindsight I wish I'd used some jumper cable to play around but to be honest my primary concern was the overall engine health. I was also wondering if the new connector which has slightly thicker wires was causing a change in resistance that might trigger a fault? Live values were approx. 70C for the first temperature sensor and 16C for this bad sensor so I know there's a measurement issue.
Agreed on them trying to sell me an engine harness but don't look a gift horse in the eye when it comes to the diagram and ultimately where it led me! I'm not there yet but I'm on the road
.More to follow in due-course. Thank you for helping me with this.
scapistron
Full Access Member
For wiring repairs I like the solder loaded crimp on butt splices from McMaster. Heat shrink is built-in too.
9895K11, 13, 15, 17
9895K11, 13, 15, 17
The new temperature sensor arrived from from FCP Euro; I measured the resistance across the two terminals and get about 2730 ohms. The old sensor was registering as an open circuit so I guess that gives me my answer about what's broken. Interestingly I get these temperatures once the engine was turned on:
The new sensor is on the left. Could somebody please record the same temperatures after engine on (cold engine); the 87C seems rather high. It's the PCM module.
I'm now clear of engine faults but obviously very nervous, need to regain my confidence! Thanks.
The new sensor is on the left. Could somebody please record the same temperatures after engine on (cold engine); the 87C seems rather high. It's the PCM module.
I'm now clear of engine faults but obviously very nervous, need to regain my confidence! Thanks.
Here's mine with the ignition on but engine off:
And then after less than a minute of running :
I was surprised at how quick it was going up
And then after less than a minute of running :
I was surprised at how quick it was going up
jlglr4
Full Access Member
Are you sure the new ECT is giving you the reading on the left? That appears to be the hot side coolant temp sensor (coming out of the block), which should be at the back of the engine on the rear crossover. The ECT at the front of the engine (which I think is the one you replaced) is measuring the temperature of the coolant coming out of the radiator (cool side), which would be the lower number on the right. At least that’s my recollection.
In any case, those numbers look high if your engine was dead cold. If it was running even a minute or two, those temps might be correct (mine gets to full temp in about 5 minutes). Or, if you had been running it even a couple of hours before, it might be correct as it will retain heat for quite a while after shutting down.
In any case, those numbers look high if your engine was dead cold. If it was running even a minute or two, those temps might be correct (mine gets to full temp in about 5 minutes). Or, if you had been running it even a couple of hours before, it might be correct as it will retain heat for quite a while after shutting down.
ftillier - thank you so much, the warming up quickly makes sense I think, the thermostat likely hasn't opened yet... Your values are significantly lower! Ambient when I did the test was 14C. I will need to check again today.
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