2016 LR4 Intelligent stop/start not working

[WatchStander]

On my 2016, after I had allowed the old S/S battery to go dead for probably 6 months or so:

For the physical bit, it's a simple swap.
Just watch the connections/terminals on the new battery as not all batteries have the correct terminals.
There is a "heat shield" that is attached to the factory original battery that is glued on, but it's easy enough to carefully take it off with a putty knife or similar (2 minute job).

For the software bit:
I replaced both the S/S and the main battery at the same time, and I did do reset for the main battery as part of that process.
So I cannot state with certainty re: resets for only the S/S battery.

But I can tell you that after I completed both batteries and the reset, the S/S (unfortunately) works again..., but at least that idiot light is off !

I did mine about a year ago and it was stupid expensive at Rover, so I found a battery in the UK.
Even with the expensive shipping it was $100 less that getting it locally.

The battery is an Exide EK151
I recommend:
Groves Batteries
Cheltenham, UK

I see they have them in stock (as I write this) for 56GBP, plus shipping.
My shipping was about $100

They were super easy to work with and (at least at that time) shipping was fast.

txfromwi - Thank you for the great feedback and clear guidance!

Like you, I intend to change out both batteries at the same time. Unlike you, I plan to install a couple of Interstate AGMs. For reference I am planning on these two batteries:

Interstate MTX-94R/H7 (Primary)
Interstate MTX-AUX14 (Aux or ECO Start/Stop Battery)

Interesting how you found your battery across the pond for less than what you would pay here at home. You're right...stupid expensive.

I appreciate the tip on the terminal connectors and the heat shield; I'll make sure to pay attention to both of those when I replace my battery.

Regarding the S/S feature, I've seen several forum threads regarding the "love/hate" (mostly hate) relationship my fellow LR owners have with it. Personally, I can't say I have a problem with it. For reference, I also own a 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid. Its S/S feature works perfectly. Smooth (like buttah), with what can only be considered graceful restarts. I barely notice it. As for my 2016 LR4, well, that's a different beast. Land Rovers are over engineered for whatever we decide to throw at them. In my case, the "Stop" feature works - usually. Provided my batteries are fairly good shape and operating optimally - like during the first couple years (+/-) of ownership. After that, well, the honeymoon was over. It would stop - maybe. When it was working, the "Start" feature would jolt the engine back to life...it was crude and abrupt compared to my "well mannered" Camry. I think you get the idea. I have just come to recognize the LR4's S/S feature as a "beastly" function of an elegant "beast" of a vehicle (if that makes sense). So as I see it, the S/S feature is part of the LR4 and since I paid for it...I expect it to work, despite it's shortcomings.

Thanks again for your help. I appreciate it.

 

[WatchStander]

---
Note: This entry also applies to the "2016 LR4 Intelligent stop/start not working" thread.
---
So after all that, it turns out there's a tech bulletin addressing the issue (LTB00958NAS3, dated 27JAN2018). I found it here (among others):

Land Rover TSB LTB00958NAS3 — 2015 LR4 | CarComplaints.com

Land Rover TSB LTB00958NAS3: Technical Service Bulletin for the 2015 Land Rover LR4.

www.carcomplaints.com

From the looks of it, this bulletin is the "end all, be all" solution for this problem because it replaces all previous versions and further advises to destroy all previous versions. Suggesting they figured it out? Not sure, but it seems that way.

But read the bulletin carefully...though no parts are required, the bulletin is very specific about the use of Land Rover approved diagnostic tools. Specifically, the Sympton Driven Diagnostic (SDD) tool, and the Midtronics Power supply tool...which I have neither.

Don’t know if this will help anybody, but it did shed some light on this problem and made it a little more understandable...and less threatening.

So now my fellow Landy Forum mates...does anyone know if the GAP Tool can/will do the same thing to the Gateway Module of the LR4 in the VIN range identified in the Tech Bulletin? In other words, did GAP provide a software update addressing this issue? If so, has anyone tried it? I’d like to hear about your experience.

Thanks!

 

[ktm525]

S/S systems in general are complete crap. You win if it is not working.

 

[txfromwi]

Need instructions how to turn S/S OFF - FOREVER !!
Would be great if there was a software fix!

 

[WatchStander]

txfromwi - Thank you for the great feedback and clear guidance!

Like you, I intend to change out both batteries at the same time. Unlike you, I plan to install a couple of Interstate AGMs. For reference I am planning on these two batteries:

Interstate MTX-94R/H7 (Primary)
Interstate MTX-AUX14 (Aux or ECO Start/Stop Battery)

Interesting how you found your battery across the pond for less than what you would pay here at home. You're right...stupid expensive.

I appreciate the tip on the terminal connectors and the heat shield; I'll make sure to pay attention to both of those when I replace my battery.

Regarding the S/S feature, I've seen several forum threads regarding the "love/hate" (mostly hate) relationship my fellow LR owners have with it. Personally, I can't say I have a problem with it. For reference, I also own a 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid. Its S/S feature works perfectly. Smooth (like buttah), with what can only be considered graceful restarts. I barely notice it. As for my 2016 LR4, well, that's a different beast. Land Rovers are over engineered for whatever we decide to throw at them. In my case, the "Stop" feature works - usually. Provided my batteries are fairly good shape and operating optimally - like during the first couple years (+/-) of ownership. After that, well, the honeymoon was over. It would stop - maybe. When it was working, the "Start" feature would jolt the engine back to life...it was crude and abrupt compared to my "well mannered" Camry. I think you get the idea. I have just come to recognize the LR4's S/S feature as a "beastly" function of an elegant "beast" of a vehicle (if that makes sense). So as I see it, the S/S feature is part of the LR4 and since I paid for it...I expect it to work, despite it's shortcomings.

Thanks again for your help. I appreciate it.

Just a brief follow up to my previous entry and reply to txfromwi. I did not purchase the Interstate MTX-AUG14 battery I had intended to buy because the battery posts are not of the "automotive" type. They're suitable for a motorcycle connection (and other vehicles as I understand it), but not for the Land Rover. Thanks to txfromwi for the tip on the battery posts. Oh, and I was able to remove and replace the heat shield w/out issue.

Also, I did indeed purchase my Exide battery from the UK. Seems to be the only place I could find one. Price-wise, it was comparable to the Interstate batter, I paid approx $120, including shipping. Again, thanks to txfromwi for the recommendation to buy from Groves Batteries, Cheltenham, England. I went there first, but ended up buying from Battery Group Limited, also in the UK.

Finally, I purchased some other tools to assist with he battery change out process. Specifically:

1. GAP IID Tool. Purchased from Lucky8 Off Road. Good group. Very helpful; they answered each and every one of my questions.
2. NOCO Genius 10. Purchased from Amazon. Very helpful tool. I used it for the 12v power "Supply" feature which allowed me to connect and maintain power to the LR's electronics while I changed the battery.
3. NOCO GC035 12v Adapter plug Socket w/OBD II Connector. Purchased from Amazon. Used it to connect to my NOCO Genius 10 power Supply.
4. NOCO GC010 X-connect 12v female plug Accessory. Purchased from Amazon. It allowed me to complete the connection of the NOCO GC035 to the NOCO Genius 10.

Each of those tools worked well to make the DIY battery changeover simple(r). Though I spent some money on tools, it was still less than what I would have paid a dealer to do it. Also, I know - without question - that I did the battery replacement, did the BMS reset, cleaned/greased the battery posts, and kept my memory settings intact (windows, locks, sun roof, radio stations, etc). As an added bonus, when I change out my main battery, I will be in the "black" with respect to the costs, because I will only have to pay for the battery (approx $220.00 for an AGM). No additional tools, and no dealer costs.

Overall, I am very pleased with the outcome of this procedure and am eager to learn more and dig deeper into the DIY maintenance my LR4. Thanks to all who commented on my posts and answered my questions. I appreciate it.

P.S. -- I may have mistakenly used the word "brief" at the beginning of this post.