Multiple Errors - Parking Brake, Suspension, Fun!

[greiswig]

I think raw voltage measurements on this system are dodgy, since the alternator does not work the same as an alternator from the ‘80s would have. It’s a PWM system, if I remember right, so that makes it difficult.

What the low voltage could be telling you is that the computer determined no charge is needed, because it’s a new battery.

 

[Abram]

Hm! So even if the voltage is reporting lower than what it “should” be, it’s still ok? I have it connected to my charger right now and it shows 100% though when I started it up yesterday it was definitely reading lower.

I guess I just want to be sure it’s not gonna crap out suddenly. I do at least have a 4 year replacement warranty on the new battery

 

[powershift]

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[greiswig]

Hm! So even if the voltage is reporting lower than what it “should” be, it’s still ok? I have it connected to my charger right now and it shows 100% though when I started it up yesterday it was definitely reading lower.

I guess I just want to be sure it’s not gonna crap out suddenly. I do at least have a 4 year replacement warranty on the new battery

I'm no expert on how the charging system is supposed to work. I'll defer to someone else with more knowledge here. But I believe that a really good, fully charged battery might not inspire the LR alternator to push out higher average voltages using its PWM system.

 

[Abram]

That’s fair, I suppose my concern is that I don’t know what to trust as to whether the battery IS fully charged or not. I left it on my charger for 10 hours today and in the initial driving I was doing it was a consistent 14.5v, perfect, but then on my way back home it’s back to 12.2-12.7v

So either something is not working, or it’s just not activating the alternator as you said.