Diy timing chain

[jlach993]

The million dollar question there. It's currently all put back together, but I'm having an issue starting it. Maybe someone can chime in here to help me.

I'm getting compression on ALL 8 cylinders and that tells me that the timing is lined up between the crankshaft, pistons, intake/exhaust valves, and timing chain. Bank 2 is perfect getting between 195 to 210 psi, while bank 1 is getting between 105 and 195 psi. Bank 1 spark plugs all have soot on them, the piston heads look grimy, the O2 sensor looks similar to the spark plugs. I've replaced the upstream O2 sensor, and still nothing. It cranks over with no problems, but it just doesn't start. Basically, I have air, fuel, and spark, and I'm thinking it has to do with some ecu not registering something. I'm pretty sure I plugged everything back in.

Besides changing the timing chain guides, guide tensioner, and walnut blasting the intake valves, the only other thing I really did was clean out the intake manifold with some engine degreaser and water to let dry over a week. I've replaced the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) the oem ohm readings were bouncing around from 80-190 ohms, while a new one sits at 35.9 ohms or something like that.

The next steps I think is to find out if I have oil pressure, fuel pressure, and??? I don't know. Maybe I should have done one thing at a time rather than combining everything all at once.

Maybe water and degreaser is still stuck in there

 

[djkaosone]

Maybe water and degreaser is still stuck in there

I thought I got em all out by blowing compressed air, but you're probably right... Doesn't hurt to rip it all out and give it a good blowy.

 

[avslash]

Any codes thrown?

Not sure, but I would think a fault large enough to prevent start up would throw a fuel, air or spark code.

Might also help determine if something is not plugged in. I would think a missing sensor value would trigger a code as well.

 

[djkaosone]

Any codes thrown?

No codes, when the battery is fully charged or when both batteries are in parallel. When the starting battery dies, I get all the codes.

 

[avslash]

Just spit ballin' here, but if you have compression on all cylinders, it has to be either air, fuel or spark related, correct?

If the engine is spinning it has to be getting air unless the intake is physically obstructed, so I would consider that one least likely.

Wonder if their is a priming procedure for the fuel system or HPFP after having it opened up? Would have to check my manual at home.

Pistons wet from unburnt fuel after attempting to start?

Is their a fuel pressure test port on either of the injector rails?

Double check connections on ignition harness/coils since those had to have been removed?

Voltmeter check on ignition coils?

ETA: I want that truck to run, and run well. I don't want to be scared away from doing this job in my own garage...

 

[djkaosone]

First off, thanks for throwing out ideas. I need to talk it out too.

Just spit ballin' here, but if you have compression on all cylinders, it has to be either air, fuel or spark related, correct? - Compression just means that it holds air in each cylinder. Fuel and spark is taken away from this equation. Fuel pump, ignition coil and spark plug disabled/removed. If there were no compression it means that air pressure is escaping through valve seal or rings.

If the engine is spinning it has to be getting air unless the intake is physically obstructed, so I would consider that one least likely. - That's my thought as well, until I learned about the IACV (idle air control valve). Still new to it, but it's attached to the rear of the intake manifold. Maybe blowing more compressed air through EVERYTHING will clear stuff out.

Wonder if their is a priming procedure for the fuel system or HPFP after having it opened up? Would have to check my manual at home. - I used the IIDtool for fuel priming, but I didn't do it this last time going at it again after removing the fuel crossover bar over the intake manifold to replace the IACV. So, maybe I need to do it again.

Pistons wet from unburnt fuel after attempting to start? - I used an endoscope to take a peek into each spark plug hole and the fuel burns, but not well. That's where I thought the upstream O2 sensor was the culprit, but it's not. With the spark plug plugged into the ignition coil out of the head and grounding the spark plug I get spark.

Is their a fuel pressure test port on either of the injector rails? - Not that I know of. Maybe I can just remove the crossover pipe and pressure test it.

Double check connections on ignition harness/coils since those had to have been removed? - That was the first thing I did, and I even went to dielectric grease the fittings. Maybe a conductive silicone for each connector, but I'm kind of scared that it'll burn something out.

Voltmeter check on ignition coils? - Crazy enough, I have 2 sets of ignition coils and I've swapped them.

The craziest part is that I know I get fuel, from physically removing the new injectors again, I get spark, and allegedly air. I'm lost...

ETA: I want that truck to run, and run well. I don't want to be scared away from doing this job in my own garage...

- #MeToo... My wife is being very patient, but it might not last long...

 

[BBLR3]

Sounds like its timing related. Crankshaft/camshaft sensors?

 

[doc5339]

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I just ordered the: 1830858C1 RTV Silicone Rubber T-442 1 $39.38 $39.38 from Freedom Racing Tool and Auto

 

[ktm525]

The million dollar question there. It's currently all put back together, but I'm having an issue starting it. Maybe someone can chime in here to help me.

I'm getting compression on ALL 8 cylinders and that tells me that the timing is lined up between the crankshaft, pistons, intake/exhaust valves, and timing chain. Bank 2 is perfect getting between 195 to 210 psi, while bank 1 is getting between 105 and 195 psi. Bank 1 spark plugs all have soot on them, the piston heads look grimy, the O2 sensor looks similar to the spark plugs. I've replaced the upstream O2 sensor, and still nothing. It cranks over with no problems, but it just doesn't start. Basically, I have air, fuel, and spark, and I'm thinking it has to do with some ecu not registering something. I'm pretty sure I plugged everything back in.

Besides changing the timing chain guides, guide tensioner, and walnut blasting the intake valves, the only other thing I really did was clean out the intake manifold with some engine degreaser and water to let dry over a week. I've replaced the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) the oem ohm readings were bouncing around from 80-190 ohms, while a new one sits at 35.9 ohms or something like that.

The next steps I think is to find out if I have oil pressure, fuel pressure, and??? I don't know. Maybe I should have done one thing at a time rather than combining everything all at once.

You are only getting 105 psi? Something is out on that banks timing.

 

[timc930]

Just saw this.

They're going to go by the book, which requires them to take everything apart and check if the chain has worn in any way.

Having worked for a dealer while in college, I would not count on that...they are human, and get in a hurry, and create shortcuts, I've seen it first hand.