Is LR117568 the correct thermostat for a 2015 LR4 3.0L w/supercharger?
There's so many different part number. Are there options for different opening temperature?
Bad ECM or something else?
- Thread starter Alain
- Start date
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There's so many different part number. Are there options for different opening temperature?
That's the same part # that I put in when I replaced.
I also noticed the supercharger cooling loop never gets hot. Those are the small semirigid coolant pipes just above the supercharger air cooler. The auxiliary radiator also never gets hot. I can hear the supercharger auxiliary electric pump turning ON when I open or close the driver door. Looks like the electric pump does not run all the time.
Can other LR4 owners confirm if the supercharger coolant pipes and supercharger radiator get hot ?
Can other LR4 owners confirm if the supercharger coolant pipes and supercharger radiator get hot ?
Tapps33
Full Access Member
A couple thoughts…
I think you’re looking in the wrong place. If the whole OBD2 system is down, I would be checking the connector ground behind the footwell kick panel. (Both sides just to be safe). The PCM being down won’t cause full loss of communication, heck I’ve only had 1/2 my modules installed and the SDD tool still communicates just fine. Obviously, it sounds like you’ve checked the fuse and power to the OBD port. (Sorry, don’t have a wiring diagram in front of me for Pinouts and fuse numbers…and I can’t remember them off the top of my head).
As for the over heating…that’s a weird one. If you’ve replaced the front and rear crossover pipes, water pump, thermostat and radiator…there really no reason it shouldn’t be working correctly.
Unless…something is clogged up or you have an air bubble. You’ve looked inside your oil fill cap and there are no signs of oil and coolant mixing correct?
Have you tried evacuating and then vacuum charging your coolant system? How did your technician do it? If they only used the bleeder screws, I guarantee you there’s an air bubble in your system somewhere.
That’s where I’d start. But if it starts and runs, your PCM is most likely fine. As @jlglr4 said, there’s no way for the ECM to override the thermostat and hold it closed. When the engine gets hot, the thermostat is open…as long as it’s working.
I think you’re looking in the wrong place. If the whole OBD2 system is down, I would be checking the connector ground behind the footwell kick panel. (Both sides just to be safe). The PCM being down won’t cause full loss of communication, heck I’ve only had 1/2 my modules installed and the SDD tool still communicates just fine. Obviously, it sounds like you’ve checked the fuse and power to the OBD port. (Sorry, don’t have a wiring diagram in front of me for Pinouts and fuse numbers…and I can’t remember them off the top of my head).
As for the over heating…that’s a weird one. If you’ve replaced the front and rear crossover pipes, water pump, thermostat and radiator…there really no reason it shouldn’t be working correctly.
Unless…something is clogged up or you have an air bubble. You’ve looked inside your oil fill cap and there are no signs of oil and coolant mixing correct?
Have you tried evacuating and then vacuum charging your coolant system? How did your technician do it? If they only used the bleeder screws, I guarantee you there’s an air bubble in your system somewhere.
That’s where I’d start. But if it starts and runs, your PCM is most likely fine. As @jlglr4 said, there’s no way for the ECM to override the thermostat and hold it closed. When the engine gets hot, the thermostat is open…as long as it’s working.
Tapps33
Full Access Member
They will get hot, but typically they’re only gonna get hot when you’re really
Pushing the engine hard and it’s hot out. Sitting at idle, there’s no requirement for charge air cooling as the SC really isn’t working, and hence the pump will not turn on. If the pump’s not on, it won’t push engine coolant through the charge air coolant and “outer cooler” on the front.
