Hylomar. That’s the stuff we used. I’d tried it on a couple of test pieces of machined steel, and it was really tenacious. It did seem to set with heat, though.
Third head gasket job- why are they failing?
- Thread starter Red Top Engine
- Start date
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Red Top Engine
Well-Known Member
After speaking to my machinist (who checked heads as perfectly flat), he mentioned he used Permatex Copper Spray on his high performance builds for racing and has had no issues with it. Managed to convince me it wont hurt. I picked up OEM gaskets, sprayed and installed em'... so far truck is running just fine. Will be monitoring fluid levels for some time to see if this stuff actually works. Would have preferred to use the Hylomar, but needed to get her on the road. My only caution to others who may venture to consider this option, is to be careful with the install as it's easy to scarp the stuff off. I had a friend gently slide the gasket into place while holding the head an inch from mating surface.
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Rieseb
Member
I am going through the same rebuild. I have the Hun inserts but I bought a high performance head gasket. 5 layer metal. This is what a lot of performance mechanics recommend. The other thing I am doing is flattening the heads and the block to .001 specs. This should keep things nice and tight. The last thing I am doing is installing a separate temp gauge on my a pillar to keep an eye on temps and never push over heating.
Rover Range
Full Access Member
Get one of these. https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-ii/
Won't have to tap into the cooling system.
Won't have to tap into the cooling system.
@Red Top Engine How's it holding up with the copper spray coat? My replacement head gasket is toast right around 2 years too and was thinking about replacing it and coating it.
Rieseb
Member
Thank you! I will take a look. I still like the idea of having a dedicate gauge at eye level. My kids are going to drive this thing too and I want to make dam sure it is never overheated again. I am wondering why he was still having gasket failures. Did the head flex due to thermodynamics? Because this is an overland build and I need the engine to be super reliable, I am trying to prevent any type of head gasket failure. This entails resurfacing the head after checking for warpage along the cam guides. If they are still nice and flat, I will just re-surface the bottom of the head. I will then check the block and ensure it is as flat as possible plus add in the Hun steel inserts. This takes the head bolts up to the larger size. I think that should keep the engine nice and clamped together. The last thing will be to monitor cooling levels and make sure the is always coolant in the reservoir. Outside of that, is there anything I am missing?
I’d never let my kids drive my LR4 but that’s just me. Been stranded 3-4 times too many.
itsaguything
Full Access Member
Stranded 3 - 4 times?? How?!
I've had no issues other than when the generator was done.
Of course, mine has never overheated... can't imagine any good came of that.
I've had no issues other than when the generator was done.
Of course, mine has never overheated... can't imagine any good came of that.
Rieseb
Member
I actually bought 2 at a really cheap price due to the engines. We are building them together as a good learning experience. If they are going to drive them, they should know how they go together. So far it has been good on the tear down.
If a head gasket with any treatment has failed since late March, either there's a different problem altogether or they're putting a lot of miles on the truck! The real test will be how it holds up over the next 100k miles or so.
