Front of the engine oil leak

[Krill]

after hearing a noise from a pulley while idling I popped the hood to take a look, unfortunately what I found was the start of an oil leak. Just changed my oil maybe 3-4 weeks ago and it wasn’t there. It appears to be coming from a weird engine mounted accessory or.....the timing chain cover( I’m assuming that’s what the black metal plate is) anyone ever seen a leak in this location before or know what part it could be? Leak is contained to just that area. (Drips down onto that hose, hose has no leak)

 

[Krill]

Sorry should have done a little more digging before posting. That part is the vacuum pump. I’m pretty sure that’s the cause of the leak, has anyone ever replaced one before? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[ktm525]

Why are the engine components so corroded? Is that common with a Florida car?

 

[Krill]

no, I bought this in New York, never having an issue with rust I didn't ask for undercarriage photos....learned my lesson. its seen quite a few winters up there and I guess the previous owner didn't believe in rinsing. surprisingly I've never had a bolt or nut strip or snap. just wire brush the corrosion off the end and they come right out.

 

[scott schmerge]

after hearing a noise from a pulley while idling I popped the hood to take a look, unfortunately what I found was the start of an oil leak. Just changed my oil maybe 3-4 weeks ago and it wasn’t there. It appears to be coming from a weird engine mounted accessory or.....the timing chain cover( I’m assuming that’s what the black metal plate is) anyone ever seen a leak in this location before or know what part it could be? Leak is contained to just that area. (Drips down onto that hose, hose has no leak) View attachment 9032View attachment 9033

My vacuum pump seems to be leaking too. I noticed it when I was changing out my alternator a couple weeks ago. Let me know how your swap goes. Looks pretty straightforward.

2010 LR4 @118,000 mi

 

[Krill]

will do, weather is going to be crap here in Georgia Friday through Monday so im going to head back home to Florida(where all my tools are) im assuming you have to drain the engine oil to remove the pump. does anyone know for sure? ive only got 1k on this oil change and hate to waste $80 bucks in oil.

 

[Krill]

[QUOTE="scott schmerge,

2010 LR4 @218,000 mi[/QUOTE]

glad to see another high milage LR4, have you had any major repairs or abnormal issues? ive got 170k now and at pricing out all the stuff I need to change out
transmission service which I totally forgot about at 150k( on first starts in the morning it seems to have a slight delay shifting but I don't think its anything serious, goes away when warmed up)
air bags and AMK compressor upgrade(with valve block seal rebuild)
and buying the iid gap tool

so all in for almost 2000

 

[scott schmerge]

[QUOTE="scott schmerge,

2010 LR4 @218,000 mi

glad to see another high milage LR4, have you had any major repairs or abnormal issues? ive got 170k now and at pricing out all the stuff I need to change out
transmission service which I totally forgot about at 150k( on first starts in the morning it seems to have a slight delay shifting but I don't think its anything serious, goes away when warmed up)
air bags and AMK compressor upgrade(with valve block seal rebuild)
and buying the iid gap tool

so all in for almost 2000[/QUOTE]

Apologies, fat fingers and didn’t notice. 118,000 on the clock.

I just did a full transmission service and it cleared everything up. If you’re doing the trans fluid, go ahead and spring for the pan from AB, do mechatronic bridge and four seals along with the solenoids and mechatronic electrical sleeve. I used Mercron SP fluid ($80 for twelve qts vs $300 for lifeguard6). Transmission shifts like new...

This truck is amazing and still has a lot of life left in it. I fully expect to make it to at least 200k.

Next big maintenance thing on my list is timing chain tensioners. They’re still quiet and no codes, so fingers crossed it will hold a bit longer. Planning to get another 15k before they get done.

 

[scott schmerge]

will do, weather is going to be crap here in Georgia Friday through Monday so im going to head back home to Florida(where all my tools are) im assuming you have to drain the engine oil to remove the pump. does anyone know for sure? ive only got 1k on this oil change and hate to waste $80 bucks in oil.

Didnt think about that! Just did an oil change too. I’m guessing no drain necessary, but would have a clean pan below in case...but if you have a mightyvac, you could evacuate and just refill once done.

 

[Krill]

If you’re doing the trans fluid, go ahead and spring for the pan from AB, do mechatronic bridge and four seals along with the solenoids and mechatronic electrical sleeve. I used Mercron SP fluid ($80 for twelve qts vs $300 for lifeguard6). Transmission shifts like new...
Next big maintenance thing on my list is timing chain tensioners. They’re still quiet and no codes, so fingers crossed it will hold a bit longer. Planning to get another 15k before they get done.

Yup orderd the pan kit from AB(including the ZF oil) 12 quarts? How did you flush the torque converter? Also got the 4 sleeve and the adapter seal( the double square gasket looking thing) didn’t get the solenoids though,( I haven’t bought the IID tool yet so I can’t perform any transmission reset. And yeah I occasionally hear my timing chain clunking when idling but but no codes so hopefully it will hold out till I finish flight school and get a job...