Timing Chain loose in the wrong place?

[sdtim]

I recently purchased a 2015 LR4 with what I suspected was a timing chain issue. I just finished the teardown using the 'easy way' method.

The chains are definitely loose. However, the chain is tight against the tensioner, and loose against the static guide (see video). With my basic knowledge of this engine, I'd expect the slop to be on the tensioner side.

Is this expected with bad tensioners, or is there possibly an issue with the guide...or something else out of wack?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[Rover Range]

The crank may have turned during teardown.
Did you lock the crank down?

 

[sdtim]

The crank may have turned during teardown.
Did you lock the crank down?

Yes, I installed the flywheel locking tool per the LR repair manual. I made sure the crank wouldn’t move before removing the crankshaft pulley.

That said, I haven’t removed any internal components, only down to the timing covers. Even if the crankshaft wasn’t locked I don’t see how the chain could be off key, unless it jumped prior to me starting the repair.

 

[sdtim]

….

 

[Rover Range]

The cams maybe out 180 degrees. Not top dead center.

The VVT sprockets do have some movement independently of the cams.
If the cams are out 180 degrees, the force of the valve springs on the cam can turn it.

Doing the Zip tie method is a risk.

 

[sdtim]

Does the #1 cylinder need to be at TDC for doing just the guides and tensioner?

I’m thinking I should change course and spend the extra time to do the repair according to the shop manual.

 

[Rover Range]

It does.
Cam timing is critical.
You don't want to do the job twice.
Also, you will need the injector removal tool.

 

[sdtim]

Thanks for the advice. I bought the timing chain toolkit, which includes the injector removal tool. I'm going to circle back and do the full repair. I do NOT want to do this twice.

 

[sdtim]

The "easy way" is no exaggeration! Just burned an additional 4.5 hrs to complete the full teardown.

 

[djkaosone]

Oh nice you're in Oceanside? I'm in El Cajon.
If you haven't replaced the timing guides on both banks, you should. The tensioner contact point on the little metal button on the guides tend dent inwards out of shape. You can technically reuse your tensioner, but I'd replace them. With the new tensioners, you have to unpin to fully extend the piston to reset the piston back into the tensioner and repin it before installing. Documented in the workshop.

Anyhow, the chains are too loose. When I did mine the first time, I left it similar to yours but a tad tighter. When I removed the heads to do my exhaust manifolds, I had to redo my timing. This time around I got it pretty darn tight prior to releasing the tensioners. I didn't force it either. The trick is to lock in the cam locks prior to removing the chains, replace the guides, line up the chains to the markers as close as possible, unlock the cam locks, adjust 1 of the cam gears to line up the markers perfectly, and then install the tensioner. There should be ZERO play on it. It sounds scary, but after doing this on 2 different LR4s serveral times, it's pretty easy.

Here's some of my personal findings on tackling the job, https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/diy-timing-chain.31050/.