Project Dark Knight Rising

[Tapps33]

That was a couple days ago, onto today. After my minor freakout about the timing, I have simply accepted the risk and decided that every 7 or 8 rotations, the timing marks line up, so it's either fine or something very weird is going on with it. The cam timing lines up perfectly....every 140 engine revolutions.

Today I reassembled the supercharger pieces, formally installed the flex plate, rear main seal and oil pan as well as brand new high pressure fuel pumps. (I kinda used the original ones to test if that was the problem on my 2010's engine...stupid random miss at start up!) I also installed the lower timing cover. (Yesterday I got the oil cooler and knock sensors in place). It's a little slower going than I was hoping for, mainly because I have to clean all the parts without my parts cleaner or media blaster....so, brake cleaner and 0000 steel wool here I come! Which I might add is a giant PITA to keep all the little pieces of steel wool out of everything....and I have burned through A LOT of brake cleaner!

Here's the supercharger all nice and reassembled:

Couple engine pics...getting closer!

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, if you read the manual, they say you have to use this special LR tool to install the rear main seal...not at all. I have a transmission lip seal tool...which is basically a flexible hard plastic disc. Anyway, tuck it in and roll it all the way around and the seal is installed perfectly. No million dollar LR tool required.

Finally, while I had the flex plate off, I thought I'd shoot a quick pic of the flex plate lock tool slot. As you can see, the tool will only fit in one spot....and since the flexplute has a locating stud on the crank, that's how you set the crank timing...to then set all the other timing.

 

[Tapps33]

Oh yeah, I also forgot to tell you a few things about the supercharger rebuild process;

First, I've always wondered what they actually grind when companies talk about $1400 for polishing and smoothing the supercharger. Well, when looking at the air flow cover plate into the intercooler matrices....

You can see how rough the casting sand must have been, and how much airflow increase you could stand to gain by removing the coolers and grinding it all smooth. Unfortunately, I don't have time for that right now, so that's going to have to be a project for another day.

Next, the Symposer....

What's a Symposer you ask? Easy, it's a stupid hunk of junk designed to port some of the SC noise into the cabin. So you can "hear" how cool your car sounds. That said, since this is going into a LR4 which doesn't have any of the tubing ports to route the noise, and because they're a heck of a lot of junk that'll probably break anyway, I picked up a block off plate...or rather ordered it and it'll be here Wednesday.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find a cheap block off plate I could guarantee would get here in the next couple of days, so I bit the bullet and ordered mine from Velocity AP. Thankfully, it was only twice the cost of everyone else's. (SMH) But, it's on its way!

Symposer Delete Jaguar Range Rover Land Rover 3.0 AJ126, 5.0AJ133

Symposer Delete Jaguar Range Rover Land Rover 3.0 AJ126, 5.0AJ133 Land Rover > Defender, Jaguar > XK & XKR > EngineDriveTrain-cat, Jaguar > F-Type, Jaguar > FPace, Jaguar, Land Rover, Land Rover > LR4, Land Rover > LR5, Land Rover > Range Rover Full Size, Land Rover > Range Rover Sport, Land...

www.velocityap.com

Tomorrow, I should finish the cover plates, valve covers, injectors, plugs, coils, wiring harness and supercharger. Then, it'll basically be time to yank the old motor out and start swapping a few parts to the new motor then with A LOT of luck Wednesday we'll be installing the engine into the car.

 

[ftillier]

Did you check that two rotations of the crank allowed the HPFP lock to be inserted? The number of teeth on the gears is what counts. Good progress though!

 

[Tapps33]

Did you check that two rotations of the crank allowed the HPFP lock to be inserted? The number of teeth on the gears is what counts. Good progress though!

To be honest, I've never heard of a HPFP lock, so no, I didn't check that.

I did check that after 8ish rotations, sorry, I wasn't really counting, the timing marks all lined up perfectly for the HPFP chain. (not the cam chains....they'll take another 132ish rotations.)

But, it was enough for me. I just think I haven't really been looking at the HPFP chain after I rotate the engine around....although I know I always check it when setting my cam timing chains.....it's just weird, that's all.

Or, something is not correct internally....time will tell.

 

[ftillier]

It all makes sense to me: the timing marks are to help you set the right number of chain links between gears, but the crank gears are small so it take a lot of rotations to feed through the entire timing chain length. If things initially aligned with the marks the only way for it to get out of time would be to skip a tooth.

 

[Tapps33]

Yesterday was a productive day, front timing covers are on, valve covers are on, water pump is on, crossover tube is on, supercharger is on, rear crossover is on, crank pulley is on, wiring harness is mostly in place, throttle body is on, and a few other assorted items.

I am still cleaning parts as I go, and I'm also going a small step further and sealing everything with rev or a little copper coat. Is it necessary? No....have I had valve cover gasket leak like crazy...yes. So, a little rtv to help seal them up and some copper coat on the metal oil cooler, water pump and supercharger to intake gasket and we should be good and sealed. Again, it's not required, just something I do.

The good news is that I think I'm at the point where it's time to start pulling the old engine out....cause it's almost time!!!! I may actually get this thing in before I have to leave!

Oh yeah, so I picked up metal crossover pipes, both front and rear...fingers crossed they work better than the plastic ones! Although, the upper front crossover tube isn't fitting as nicely as I'd like, but we'll see.

Prepped and ready for the supercharger! (I'll get some more pics today)

 

[ftillier]

Can the metal crossovers for the SC V8 fit on the NA V8 (since you have both on hand)? I'd seen the rear ones for the SC V6, but they're longer to account for the missing cylinders.

 

[Tapps33]

Can the metal crossovers for the SC V8 fit on the NA V8 (since you have both on hand)? I'd seen the rear ones for the SC V6, but they're longer to account for the missing cylinders.

No, unfortunately the SC front crossover won't work with the NA engine....but the new style metal rear crossover pipe will fit perfectly! That said, I can not speak to the longevity of the new style metal rear crossover pipe. This is the very first time I've used it, and this engine isn't even in the car yet.

 

[Tapps33]

So, today I pretty much finished the engine assembly;

Coils, Plugs, Injectors, fuel rails, found the RRS wiring harness I had and swapped it for the JAG harness that had come with the engine...cause there are a few differences. Installed the Symposer block off plate, hard metal fuel lines, couple of coolant lines....specifically the one from the throttle body to the rear crossover, which is a giant PITA if you forget to run it before you bolt the supercharger in place...like me. (SMH)

Basically, I'm at the point where I need to bolt the exhaust headers up so I can then bolt the rest of the accessories on; alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor etc... this is so I don't have to worry about interference issues with the exhaust manifold bolts. However, I was planning on using the exhaust manifolds already on the engine currently in the car, so I need to pull the old engine and then transfer them. FYI, I've already had these manifolds off when I rebuilt the heads on the LR4. Also of note, the headers are identical in the RRS and LR4, and in truth, I should probably just use one of my other random sets floating around. However, I do have the set that came with the engine from the Jag, and the physical dimensions are identical, there is a stud on one of the pipe flanges while the LR manifolds just take 2 bolts. In theory, one could back the stud out (it's threaded in I think) and re-use the Jag headers.

Soooo....tomorrow is the day the old engine comes out, and hopefully I'll be able to get the new one dressed and set in place! Just a few items to transfer, headers and mechatronic from the trans. Then I just have to get the body back on and the 4000 things reconnected we'll be off to the races!

Sorry, I totally meant to take pictures, but I spent so much time trying to remember what tubes and hoses went where, I didn't take any. Tomorrow will be a big day and I'll definitely get some!

 

[scapistron]

the throttle body to the rear crossover, which is a giant PITA if you forget to run it before you bolt the supercharger in place...like me. (SMH)

... I did this as well