Project Dark Knight Rising

[Tapps33]

Got all the timing gear on it over the last day or two. It's been slow going as the house pack out took precedence.

The good news is that now I can 100% focus on the car.....the bad news is that I have 9 days to get it all together again. Or at least installed and body back on.

But a few things I learned/ran into;

First off, I ran into a crazy issue with the Left Bank timing gear. The tension on the crank to intake Cam variation was substantial, and the exhaust side was not all that tight, and there was A LOT of slack in-between the variators. After assuming I had not actually found the timing set point I shifted the flex plate in both directions and it wasn't lined up. Here's another fun fact about these engines, the flex plate only has 1...only 1 hole that the lock will fit into. if you're timing is off, the lock won't fit. For some reason I thought the lock would fit in any of the square holes....no, it won't.

Anyway, after installing, removing, installing, removing again, then installing, getting everything lined up perfectly, then removing again because I forgot the oil suction tube, and installing for the final time, I got everything lined up and installed correctly....then, because I don't believe in "only" rotating the engine 270 degrees, I rotated it around...and around....and around until the chains were all back lined up perfectly in time. Now I know without a doubt, everything is exactly where it's supposed to be and 100% in time!

I also had a chance to rebuild the supercharger yesterday. This is more of a "finally" as I had purchased the rebuild kit and tools like 3 years ago, but just now got around to it....mainly because they packed and loaded my hydraulic press today, and well, most of the SC needed to be pressed off and then on....soooooo yesterday it was the priority! Sorry, no real pics of the process because I was in a hurry, but I'll take some tomorrow and post the links to where I got the tools, parts and "how to" videos as well.

 

[greiswig]

Your detailed documentation on this is really commendable. Thanks! Excited to see how it all turns out.

 

[Tapps33]

Your detailed documentation on this is really commendable. Thanks! Excited to see how it all turns out.

You're welcome! I'm trying to show everyone these engines aren't all that complicated! The software side of things....that's going to be a trial and error kinda thing as I've been ghosted by the Australian company who was going to program the PCM into the system. So, I'm going to give it a shot with my SDD tool and see what happens. I'll try and film it so that anyone else can make the swap....assuming I'm successful.

Sorry, no progress on the engine today, I had a bad injector on my 2010 that I had to swap out, so I did the entire left bank just to be safe.

Tomorrow after church it's time to get back at it! I'm hoping to start dropping the body back by Tuesday!....ok, maybe Wednesday. (Probably going to do some serious praying about it tomorrow!)

 

[Tapps33]

Ok, I've run into something I haven't actually seen before, and I need some input from y'all.

Long story short, as I was getting ready to install the oil pan, I discovered that while I have rotated the engine 140 times to get the camshaft timing chains to completely line up again, the HPFP/oil pump timing chain was now 4 links off. So, I rotated the engine another 140 times and discovered it was now an additional 4 links off. So, by my estimates, the HPFP timing chain will only line up with the camshaft timing chain every 9 "timing line up events."

Which of course, makes no sense to me, because as I understand the system, every time the system lines up, EVERYTHING should be lined up....as in, every other time I've cranked my engine around, the marks always lined up.

Now, I should tell everyone, this engine was originally a Tsubaki timing system, and it's now an INA driven system, so all the components are new...except the camshafts, they're still original. The cam variators, all timing system components, the cam timing crank gear, the HPFP timing crank gear, the oil pump is a replacement part, and the HPFP camshaft is a used INA one.

So, what am I missing? What did I forget, or more importantly, what don't I know?

Obviously, before I do the final oil pan install, I'd like to have this particular glitch addressed.

Thoughts, comments...inputs?

I made a couple quick videos to show a little better what I'm talking about.

1st 140 rotations

2nd 140 rotations:

 

[ftillier]

The only way I can think of for the chain to shift is if its link count is not a multiple of the tooth count of the gear on the crankshaft. Would the tensioner system accommodated a chain with 4 more links (or 4 fewer, depending on which way the shift is going)?

 

[ftillier]

I take the 4 tooth thing back. 4 tooth per 140 rotations is 1 tooth per 35 rotations - how long is the chain, and how many teeth on the timing gear? Is the timing chain specific to the timing gear used?

 

[Tapps33]

I take the 4 tooth thing back. 4 tooth per 140 rotations is 1 tooth per 35 rotations - how long is the chain, and how many teeth on the timing gear? Is the timing chain specific to the timing gear used?

Ok, I just counted everything, and here's what we've got:

HPFP timing chain: 36 links
Crank Sprocket: 20 teeth
Oil Pump Sprocket: 23 teeth
HPFP Sprocket: 20 teeth

I have a second chain and second oil pump sprocket and they all match with the same number of links/teeth.

So, in theory, nothing should be specific to any one engine, the parts should work for all AJ133 engines.

Again, it's a head scratcher, and I'm driving myself nuts trying to remember if this has happened before and I just never noticed it because I was so concerned with the cam timing marks....

 

[ftillier]

Ok, since the teeth count on the HPFP crank sprocket and HPFP shaft sprocket are both 20 teeth they'll stay in time. The timing marks are probably there just for initial install of the chain so that the tensioners are within spec. You should be able to check this by turning the engine 2 revolutions - all the timing locks should be able to be inserted.

 

[Tapps33]

Interesting thought, I'll give it a shot and let you know.

But I agree, sine the HPFP and crank sprocket have the same number of teeth, they should be 100% locked in time together. In theory of course....

 

[Tapps33]

Ok, a little more progress today....after my timing freak out.

First off, let's get into the supercharger.

I bought my supercharger tools and parts from eBay, but it was a "store front" type thing.

I bought the pulley puller/machining tool, snout rebuild kit, and the supercharger rebuild kit.

Install Kit Supercharger Pulley Puller Snout Machining Jaguar Land Rover 5.0 | eBay

Pulley Install Kit on the Car . Stainless Steel 5.0 3.0 TVS Performance Pulley. Pulley install done on the vehicle. Stainless Steel Pulley.

www.ebay.com

Supercharger Snout Bearings Isolator Coupler Jaguar Land Rover Range 5.0 47mm Oi | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Supercharger Snout Bearings Isolator Coupler Jaguar Land Rover Range 5.0 47mm Oi at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Supercharger Needle Bearings Hub Puller Jaguar Range Rover Land 5.0 3.0 Install | eBay

Drive Hub & Needle Bearing Removal Tool / Puller. Needle Bearing Puller Tool. Puller includes thick and thin jaws. Thinner jaws are not as strong and are for low clearance bearings only. Typically used on input shaft side where the bearing is in a stepped bore.

www.ebay.com

The rebuild videos I used are actually in the auction descriptions. The only thing I didn't get was the needle bearing installation tool...which sucks because I had to measure the .055" needle bearing recess using a feeler gauge a bushing installation tool and my hydraulic press. Not the most precise, but I feel like it has to be close enough. Now they sell an installation tool which seats the needle bearings "precisely" at their .055" recess value. That said, it appears as though the .055" lines up exactly with a bevel machined into the supercharger case.

It's kinda hard to see, but you can sorta see the "bevel" and bearing recess. This is actually the old one before I removed it.

And removed:

The bearing puller kit worked great and was super easy to use. They used an impact in the video but I just used had tools just because I was a little nervous yanking it out. The main rebuild kit came with new gear oil, new needle bearings, a couple removal tool and a new coupler.

Here's the new coupler installed:

The front snout kit comes with two new bearings and a new coupler. You can also get the pulley removal tool, which I did because I didn't have access to a hydraulic press at the time. (mine was trapped in a storage unit). I also bought the snout machining tool and used that as well to remove any material that might get in the way of the "upgraded" smaller upper pulley.

In truth, the whole snout, aside from the machining portion, could have been accomplished using only my press. It comes apart and goes back together really easily. The main SC body is a whole different ball of wax....the specialty tools are almost a necessity.

Here's the snout coupler and new pulley:

Just a heads up, each bearing has a specific location, and as far as I can tell, none of them are interchangeable, so pay close attention when taking them apart. The snout is fairly self explanatory, but the Needle bearings are subtly different and care must be taken not to mix them up.

All in all, it took me like 3 or 4 hours to complete the rebuild, and that was with several interruptions, and I was watching the videos the whole time.