Why would the compressor quit because you’re running a higher ride height? The system doesn’t run higher pressure because it’s sitting higher.
In the case of the LR3, doesn’t a body lift give you the exact same benefit of clearance at zero air as the spacers without the worry of cv damage? I guess you initially got me on the “body lift is true lift” comment, but now that you’ve pointed out it’s the only way to run 34” tires, you may have changed my mind.
P. S. It is not socially acceptable to use the “R” word anymore, especially when you are talking to the father of a special need child.
1-it’s not about air pressure (yet it may actually be higher due to lifting the vehicle via that column of air) It’s about keeping up with demands on the system. Speculation vs observed use:
Anyone who’s used these a lot in high mode has experienced the compressor at some point getting hot or sending a warning message about “excessive” changes or whatever. I’m not sure how it works exactly but I do know it happens.
Common sense would also suggest simply running the struts extended full time is unwise or else it would’ve been designed to operate that way in the first place. It’s a bad idea for several reasons though and it’s not about preferences or emotional issues.
The strut extended will have very little extension travel left (down travel for highway changes), different spring rate possibly, a longer column of air having to hold higher forces due to highway speeds which amplify the forces of weight. On a trail these forces in the struts and air occur slowly without the momentum of speed behind them.
2-if your compressor fails, and you are downgraded to riding the bump stops, the vehicle itself will literally become ‘********’. Even before any failure, the vehicle will perform in slower or limited fashion in cornering, manuevering, etc due to having screwed up suspension travel.
It is an actual word that has literal and/or implied meaning just like many others but I hear you. I think it would be ‘********’ behavior to run 80 mph with the suspension stretched out like that also requiring the compressor to work overtime. I could also just call it idiotic, stupid, ignorant as hell, etc.
*No offense meant to individuals with actual developmental problems.
3-A body lift allows for larger tires as well but through a much more involved effort while yet providing no gain in ground clearance on its own. However, the strut spacer provides immediate ground clearance if using factory strut length and only really introduces that angle stress into the cv/axle parts.
FYI-I tried all the other easy routes before. Lots of testing showed it was all BS. I can get the full ground clearance that any rod ‘lift’ BS provides simply by inducing the ‘extended mode’ with no aftermarket crap at all. The truth is none of that matters without a bigger tire that won’t just grind into the fender wells or frame during actual high articulation use.
If not using it that way ever, then it’s all a poser game anyway.
Even posing though, IMO, ought to be done well
So, that would be through using strut or body spacers and bigg ass tires.
The factory 18” wheels are actually the best choice in the largest tire game because they have the tightest offset and narrowest width. This allows the best ‘tuck factor’. I tested mine with a 25mm spacer thinking the track width would be a benefit in high lean situations but the loss of various clearance zones made it not worth any benefits.
