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Sadly correct tools are best to be had with Rovers. The worst job on a D1 is the rotors in my opinion, but since you have them out, change the seals while you are there.
LR Discovery I purchase
- Thread starter TestPoint
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What else could one do on a Saturday in late December when it is 75 outside but work on cars?
Got the caliper bolts out but they were a bear. Needed a cheater bar on the ratchet all the way out for all four bolts. I am going to put anti seize rather than LocTite on going back in no matter what you say. I pulled one axle and captured the differential lube that had been changed only a few miles ago. Read that seals should be replaced at this point. No signs of leakage.
Please tell me that I can get away with putting that off to think about tomorrow.
Pulled the big tie rod behind the front axle as both ends showed a little play and both rubber grease retaining boots were split. WOW! Even after hammering the sleeve to loosen the end threads it took two 3' pipe wrenches to get them off.
Note to anyone at this point in life: Both tie rod ends use right hand threads. If you find an on-line catalog that says left and right that is referring to the threads not the sides of the car. Both are right hand threads!
Put that down for lack of new rotors and a second right hand thread tie rod end replaced the water pump.
The water pump was leaking and after getting the fan off it was evident why. There must have been a quarter inch play in the bearing/seal.
Now the question:
Several posts and a Land Rover parts supplier have indicated that it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump. While obviously leaking a little of the silicone grease the clutch seems adequate to its intended purpose and not that hard to remove as a subsequent repair.
What should a mother do?
Got the caliper bolts out but they were a bear. Needed a cheater bar on the ratchet all the way out for all four bolts. I am going to put anti seize rather than LocTite on going back in no matter what you say. I pulled one axle and captured the differential lube that had been changed only a few miles ago. Read that seals should be replaced at this point. No signs of leakage.
Please tell me that I can get away with putting that off to think about tomorrow.
Pulled the big tie rod behind the front axle as both ends showed a little play and both rubber grease retaining boots were split. WOW! Even after hammering the sleeve to loosen the end threads it took two 3' pipe wrenches to get them off.
Note to anyone at this point in life: Both tie rod ends use right hand threads. If you find an on-line catalog that says left and right that is referring to the threads not the sides of the car. Both are right hand threads!
Put that down for lack of new rotors and a second right hand thread tie rod end replaced the water pump.
The water pump was leaking and after getting the fan off it was evident why. There must have been a quarter inch play in the bearing/seal.
Now the question:
Several posts and a Land Rover parts supplier have indicated that it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump. While obviously leaking a little of the silicone grease the clutch seems adequate to its intended purpose and not that hard to remove as a subsequent repair.
What should a mother do?
Another 70+ degree day in the Georgia mountains and nothing to do except put another few hours in on the LRD1.
With the rear calipers off the rest of the disassembly and reassembly of the hubs was pretty simple.
Wiped as much of the old bearing grease off/out as possible and repacked. No sign of rear end lube getting past the grease seal so I took a chance and did not address that.
Even the small 10mm nuts holding the ABS ring on were the nylon lock nuts. Worked on lots of Jaguars and Volvo's and never have seen this extent of LocTite and lock nuts on any of them.
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Yes, the rotors are a real pain . . .
All back together and out for a 10 mile test run. Never driven a LRD1 before and was very impressed.
Replaced:
Shocks all around
Rotors all around
Brake pads all around
Calipers on the front
Both tie rod ends behind the axle . . . guess I need to have an alignment.
Water pump
Thermostat
The original owner had paid to have the steering damper replaced.
Test drive to 75mph was perfect!
Lots of other things to fix but it appears to be fully driveable.
I shall return!
All back together and out for a 10 mile test run. Never driven a LRD1 before and was very impressed.
Replaced:
Shocks all around
Rotors all around
Brake pads all around
Calipers on the front
Both tie rod ends behind the axle . . . guess I need to have an alignment.
Water pump
Thermostat
The original owner had paid to have the steering damper replaced.
Test drive to 75mph was perfect!
Lots of other things to fix but it appears to be fully driveable.
I shall return!
