2012 LR4 - Diagnosing two separate vibrations

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djkaosone

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For issue # 2 -- You have the v8, right? I had similar issue on my 2012, and adding the damper in this TSB largely fixed it.



Easy fix, part is maybe $50 ? and you can can crawl under the car and do it yourself.
I second this! Did this a 2 years ago and it helps with the vibration. You'll have to tap that part of the transfer case. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/2013-lr4-weird-humming-noise.30757/post-239237
 

itsaguything

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Every rotating component in a vehicle that is out of balance, generates a frequency.
When I was a Ford tech, we used this to identify where the vibration came from.

Maybe use an app like this..
That was an interesting video!
 

Abram

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For issue # 2 -- You have the v8, right? I had similar issue on my 2012, and adding the damper in this TSB largely fixed it.



Easy fix, part is maybe $50 ? and you can can crawl under the car and do it yourself.

I second this! Did this a 2 years ago and it helps with the vibration. You'll have to tap that part of the transfer case. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/2013-lr4-weird-humming-noise.30757/post-239237
Very interesting! I will definitely look into this one, thank you so much for the details and suggestion!
 
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Might try to help hhere; the first sounds to me like a brake pad hanging up because of a stuck piston on one side (usually the inside) of the caliper) generally if you have a good eye you can catch this on visual inspection of the rotors without removing the wheels; to check place slightest pressure on brakes when youd usually get the vibration and then run the wheels right and left if the this solves it its likely that or less likely a air/fluid issue.

The second it pays to find a big hill and get the vibration while driving and then take foot off gas and let her roll on down the highway (band?) then place her in neutral; if the vibration is unchanged you likely have a driveshaft balance issue and want to seek out a place that well... balances drivelines; if this goes away a bit on acceleration thats another symptom of that issue OR a transfer case issue but thats not common; if your alignment is ok (its unlikely to be alignment) and the vibration lessens once you have it vibrating - when you turn the wheel or load one side or the other you likely have a half shaft -c/v joint on the side where the vibration lessens when you load that side (or rarely worsens depending on condition of c/v).
The other things are mentioned mostly above; check ball joints, etc but the big things are : does acceleration increase or decrease vibration once you have it vibrating AND/OR when descending at speed does neutral help or hurt. Its just differential (no pun) diagnosis.
Dave
 

Pagoda

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My 2c. I changed all the discs and pads over Christmas. I cleaned out the EPB but didn't change the shoes and didn't strip it. Just put the new discs on. About a month later the vehicle started to exhibit a random but very considerable vibration - sometimes at highway speeds, sometimes at 30 mph. At first I thought it was LCA. I don't drive it much (wife's car) but having driven it a lot of late (it's hard to get the fault to show - random and infrequent) I did get it. Trying to wish the issue away I removed the calipers and greased the pins. Reassembled. Got the vibration again on the highway but had my IR gun and it shows the rear right disc is cooking hot. This weekend I stripped the EPB completely. the rear right was full of powdered lining and in rough shape, so I replaced them both with parts I had laying around from my V8.

I would take the time to check the EPB - it can certainly cause random vibrations, although they are significant. At least checking it you can exclude it if nothing's wrong. If you do change the shoes, then ensure you follow the EPB bedding in procedure afterwards. EPB should be checked every year or so and it's essential to use it all the time or it will seize.
 

Abram

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I think I have (unfortunately) figured out what the shudder I’m experiencing, I believe it to be related to a new discovery this weekend. As I was driving to the mountains I was using a lot of cruise control and noticed my tach was fluctuating. I still experienced the same shudder multiple times but never hard shifts or anything.

I believe this is related to the torque converter which unfortunately means I’m probably going to need to rebuild it or the transmission :/

Ideally it’ll hold on for a while as I’ll need to save to prepare for that.
 

scapistron

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I'd make sure the fluid level is right. Filling the ZF transmission is kind of a pain. It is supposed to be warm, running, and shifted into gears under load.
 

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