Multiple Errors - Parking Brake, Suspension, Fun!

[Abram]

FWIW I just tested again after the truck has sat undriven for 6 hours and the voltage of the new battery was still 12.2V. All that being said, it starts right up with no hesitation so I'd like to think it's "fine". But I will try digging around in the workshop manual (though it's hard to do on mobile, I just didn't have time to pull it up on my laptop yet).

 

[powershift]

12.2V is too low for 6hrs and when mine hit that about this time last year that's when I replaced it. I expect the voltage to be 12.6V or higher after 6hrs, probably more like 12.8V or 13.01V with a fresh battery and after driving it a while. The voltage test has to be without interruption (like opening a door) and not just undriven.

 

[Abram]

Yeah I left it completely untouched after locking the vehicle this morning. Nothing was done until I unlocked it this afternoon so it was as "asleep" as I could let it be for that timeframe. I'll have to go to Autozone and have them test the battery then since it came from them. I'm tempted to put the old battery back in at this point.


Edit: Just stopped by autozone, the battery itself is good, but according to their scanner my alternator is failing. Or at least it’s not charging the battery (which is already at 68% capacity from yesterday’s 100% charge)

But before I throw money at it, I guess I will watch and see over the next couple days how it behaves.

 

[powershift]

How many miles are on the alternator?

 

[itsaguything]

Quiescent draw on the battery is rated in mA. Thousants' of an Amp. Sitting overnight would have negligible affect on a good battery.

I have too many vehicles. And at times they sit for months. I have no issues as when the battery is done, its replaced.

 

[Abram]

How many miles are on the alternator?

Presumably it’s still the original as I can’t find any documentation of it being replaced, so it’s at 144k miles.

Interestingly as I dig through the history between 2015-2018 it was brought in for Battery/Electrical work 6 times. If anything was replaced at those points it wasn’t called out.

All that being said it is still starting up strong every time I drive so…. Maybe it’s fine? Still hasn’t thrown a code or shown a low battery warning on the dash.

 

[powershift]

Presumably it’s still the original as I can’t find any documentation of it being replaced, so it’s at 144k miles.

Interestingly as I dig through the history between 2015-2018 it was brought in for Battery/Electrical work 6 times. If anything was replaced at those points it wasn’t called out.

All that being said it is still starting up strong every time I drive so…. Maybe it’s fine? Still hasn’t thrown a code or shown a low battery warning on the dash.

I'm not sure if its fine or not since I'm not sure what the problem you are having is, but at 140k mi is when I plan to replace mine.

 

[Abram]

I'm not sure if its fine or not since I'm not sure what the problem you are having is, but at 140k mi is when I plan to replace mine.

That's fair to say. The original concern I had was that my brand new battery was seemingly not fully charged and my truck was not reporting 13v+ while running. My truck did already have an H8 size battery but it was a flooded type, 760CCA and pretty old, I replaced it with an H8 AGM 900CCA, programmed the new spec in the CCF and reset the BMS. But I now understand the alternator works a bit differently than I was accustomed to, though I'm not 100% certain if it's working properly or not. (Is there something I can scan with the IID? I can't get to the alternator in my driveway).

When I start up the truck it has been consistently at 12.7v but it has not hesitated once or shown any strange behavior operating things like the windows, AC, stereo, heated seats / steering wheel etc. When I went back to Autozone where I bought the battery, their scanner showed the battery was good but under a 70% charge at the time and then when they checked my alternator their tool reported a failure. That's just Autozone though, I'm not taking that as a concrete diagnosis. I'm monitoring it over a few days to see if any behaviors change (so far, no) and if it's suddenly flat or struggling to turn over then I'll go to my shop and likely have to have the alternator replaced.

 

[powershift]

That's fair to say. The original concern I had was that my brand new battery was seemingly not fully charged and my truck was not reporting 13v+ while running. My truck did already have an H8 size battery but it was a flooded type, 760CCA and pretty old, I replaced it with an H8 AGM 900CCA, programmed the new spec in the CCF and reset the BMS. But I now understand the alternator works a bit differently than I was accustomed to, though I'm not 100% certain if it's working properly or not. (Is there something I can scan with the IID? I can't get to the alternator in my driveway).

When I start up the truck it has been consistently at 12.7v but it has not hesitated once or shown any strange behavior operating things like the windows, AC, stereo, heated seats / steering wheel etc. When I went back to Autozone where I bought the battery, their scanner showed the battery was good but under a 70% charge at the time and then when they checked my alternator their tool reported a failure. That's just Autozone though, I'm not taking that as a concrete diagnosis. I'm monitoring it over a few days to see if any behaviors change (so far, no) and if it's suddenly flat or struggling to turn over then I'll go to my shop and likely have to have the alternator replaced.

I agree with Autozone and it should be up to you to charge it up. I use a 60A charger that has an AGM algorithm when I check the oil. I leave it on all day sometimes and it chills at 13.6V in the end. Outside of that my alternator is fine so I'm grateful for that. 760CCA seems pretty low and not spec, I think mine was 820 CCA, there is room left on the table for more power. It was about $275.

 

[Abram]

I agree with Autozone and it should be up to you to charge it up. I use a 60A charger that has an AGM algorithm when I check the oil. I leave it on all day sometimes and it chills at 13.6V in the end. Outside of that my alternator is fine so I'm grateful for that. 760CCA seems pretty low and not spec, I think mine was 820 CCA, there is room left on the table for more power. It was about $275.

For sure, I had noted earlier in the thread that the day prior I put it on my charger overnight and had a 100% charge and it depleted quickly.

However, as of today it’s back up to about 80% on its own though still reporting that 12.7v reading. So I’ll continue to monitor and see how it goes. I have my charger handy incase I need it