2010 LR4 Air suspension need advice

[Longtrail]

I didn't find the top mounting bolt that difficult on the compressor, in fact it pales in comparison to some of the other "bolt" experiences on this vehicle (thinking the rear suspension valve block air hose nut and valve cover rear bolts on the drivers side, + others!). Don't let this stop you if you need to pull off the compressor. Great to hear she's staying level. I suspect this is an on-going task every few years!

 

[jackkyxu]

an on-going task every few years!

Ha.... compared with coolant crossbody tube?

 

[Longtrail]

Ha.... compared with coolant crossbody tube?

Yeah - that as well, I didn't find that terrible to be honest, just take your time!

 

[jackkyxu]

I'd also say it's a pretty subtle white residue, replace the o'rings, use a very small amount of silicon grease on the new ones and generally give the whole block a good blast with an air nozzle and wipe down all the internals.

No need to change the desiccant.
Top mounting bolt: Use a long extension with a swivel 10mm socket.

The system won't run the compressor while the car is off, but will try to keep it level, so the only thing it can do is bleed air. This makes it harder to determine which corner has the issue, hence the recommendation to pull the EAS fuse. Then height drops are attributed to leak and not corrections driven by the system.

From the workshop manual:
"Periodic Re-leveling
When the vehicle is parked, the air suspension control module 'wakes up' two hours after the ignition was last switched off and then once every six hours. The vehicle height is checked and if the vehicle is not level within a pre-set tolerance, small downwards height adjustments may be made automatically"

here is another update


I did some errand trip today

First, the compressor did start working during the trip (after cold start, no working immediately, I guess due to the original height was off-road, and lowered to normal height), but the time of working duration is MUCH reduced, like 3-5 seconds

Second, after the warm hot start from parking outside a grocery store, the compressor did start working for like 15 seconds


My question is: is compressor start working like this a normal thing ?? or if I did cold start, should the compressor be normal to run for a short while


Thanks

 

[jackkyxu]

may I ask what is a normal working status for the compressor?


should it run every time car is ignited or every day to top off the reservoir (like very short duration of working)?



sometimes when I turn off the engine and lock the car, I can see car lowered immediately , sometime I do not see, is it normal?

 

[TimVZ]

Ours will occasionally "settle" after locking the doors. Typically this seems to be to level out.

 

[John Higgins]

hi

here is my update

I got the front valve block replaced, I DID NOT find white residue/powder in the air line, and I did air blast to clean

I checked the old valve block, and NEITHER any white residue/powder


I DID the height measurement again over night

this time, the height on front both DID NOT CHANGE ANY single mm at all



my next question is: should I still continue to replace the compressor desiccant?

(I checked the video, the third bolt on compressor is PIA, right? any trick to share?)


thanks

For the third bolt, notch the bracket while it’s off the car. Then put the nut on the bolt, screw it in a thread or two and slide the notched bracket into place. Finish by tightening up the bolt with a long ratchet.

 

[Longtrail]

My compressor always runs shortly after starting the car when cold. Look at this thread for details on pressure behavior (I believe you have a question in there as well - so I'll look shortly):

2012 LR4 Reluctant to lower from off-road suspension mode

Hi Folks, I just rebuilt the front suspension valve block (new o-rings) and now the LR4 seems to stay up over night (good news), the problem I have existed before doing this work and appears to be in the rear. Here's a summary of the issue. 1) I select off-road as the suspension mode and the...

www.landroverworld.org

Note that the compressor will fill the tank and then dump the pressure in the lines; this makes perfect sense as you don't want to stress the lines unnecessarily during normal operation.

 

[jackkyxu]

Interesting you mention that. I tried purchasing the Autel MaxiAP AP200 (not the "H" model) from my local AutoZone store three different times. Each time the order was cancelled due to non-availability. I finally learned from AutoZone that their distributor will not have that item available for sale again until January 2023.

The PowerfulUK video came out a short time after I decided to drop the AP200 and spring for the GAP IID Tool. I have the GAP tool now and have no regrets; actually, it's pretty amazing. Nothing negative about the AP200, it was simply not available to me when I needed it. BTW, I tried each of the US-based businesses Autel recommended but it was not available from any of them. I did not check any on-line sources out of concern over product authenticity. You can check out Autel's authorized dealer list here: https://www.autel.com/c/www/wheretobuy.jhtml

I think the Autel MaxiAP AP200 would have satisfied my requirements, but I was unable to find one even after nearly 3 weeks of looking. I should also mention that while I was doing my research, I contacted the Autel support/help desk several times. Each person I spoke to knew their product line and was able to answer each of my (many!) questions. I was actually disappointed at not being able to purchase the tool; but now that I have the GAP IID Tool, I'm happy to have it and I am still learning of its many capabilities. If you decide to the same...check out Lucky8 Off Road first. They are a US-based authorized dealer. You can find them here: https://lucky8llc.com

Good Luck and Happy Hunting!

The system won't run the compressor while the car is off, but will try to keep it level, so the only thing it can do is bleed air. This makes it harder to determine which corner has the issue, hence the recommendation to pull the EAS fuse. Then height drops are attributed to leak and not corrections driven by the system.

From the workshop manual:
"Periodic Re-leveling
When the vehicle is parked, the air suspension control module 'wakes up' two hours after the ignition was last switched off and then once every six hours. The vehicle height is checked and if the vehicle is not level within a pre-set tolerance, small downwards height adjustments may be made automatically"

Periodic re-leveling is probably what bit me when I started parking on 2X6es to level the frame while overlanding. I went in circles with it trying to figure out what the leak was and then just said f-it and stopped using the 2X6es lol. Now I just disconnect the battery when camping and that solves many issues. But new issues are the trip odometer gets reset and it doesn't remember suspension modes.

No need to change the desiccant.
Top mounting bolt: Use a long extension with a swivel 10mm socket.

I didn't find the top mounting bolt that difficult on the compressor, in fact it pales in comparison to some of the other "bolt" experiences on this vehicle (thinking the rear suspension valve block air hose nut and valve cover rear bolts on the drivers side, + others!). Don't let this stop you if you need to pull off the compressor. Great to hear she's staying level. I suspect this is an on-going task every few years!

For the third bolt, notch the bracket while it’s off the car. Then put the nut on the bolt, screw it in a thread or two and slide the notched bracket into place. Finish by tightening up the bolt with a long ratchet.

sorry to bother you again

I took the height measurement with normal height (fuse pulled), and ALL 4 corner drops, it is completely different result than what I took before with Off-Road height

I will do again tonight with Off-Road height


I am thinking to get a IID tool, can you help me what I should do with IID to pin-point the actual issue?