2010 LR4 Air suspension need advice

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ftillier

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My first investigation with soapy water found bubbles at the VOSS fitting of the front block, going to one of the struts (don't recall which). You do have to pull the fender liner and that's a bit of a pain. I don't recall which fuses I pulled, there's a little pictogram for the EAS system, I pulled all the related fuses. I believe there are two, one "little" for the ECU, and one "big" for the compressor. Anecdotally, the front seems to develop issues more often than the rear.
 

ftillier

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IF as you say the system will wake up periodically and can bleed air, why would it sag even there is leaking?
The system won't run the compressor while the car is off, but will try to keep it level, so the only thing it can do is bleed air. This makes it harder to determine which corner has the issue, hence the recommendation to pull the EAS fuse. Then height drops are attributed to leak and not corrections driven by the system.

From the workshop manual:
"Periodic Re-leveling
When the vehicle is parked, the air suspension control module 'wakes up' two hours after the ignition was last switched off and then once every six hours. The vehicle height is checked and if the vehicle is not level within a pre-set tolerance, small downwards height adjustments may be made automatically"
 

powershift

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The system won't run the compressor while the car is off, but will try to keep it level, so the only thing it can do is bleed air. This makes it harder to determine which corner has the issue, hence the recommendation to pull the EAS fuse. Then height drops are attributed to leak and not corrections driven by the system.

From the workshop manual:
"Periodic Re-leveling
When the vehicle is parked, the air suspension control module 'wakes up' two hours after the ignition was last switched off and then once every six hours. The vehicle height is checked and if the vehicle is not level within a pre-set tolerance, small downwards height adjustments may be made automatically"
Periodic re-leveling is probably what bit me when I started parking on 2X6es to level the frame while overlanding. I went in circles with it trying to figure out what the leak was and then just said f-it and stopped using the 2X6es lol. Now I just disconnect the battery when camping and that solves many issues. But new issues are the trip odometer gets reset and it doesn't remember suspension modes.
 

jackkyxu

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here is height measurement


TimeLeft FrontLeft RearRight FrontRight Rear
5:55PM (EAS fuse on)34.87535.53535.5
8:45AM (EAS fuse on)34.7535.534.87535.5
8:00PM (EAS fuse off)34.535.2034.535
7:30AM (EAS fuse off)34.2535.1534.2535


here is the update

so I think there is very even leaking in the front (left rear I think it is observation error ? not right on the ruler mark)

so next is to replace the front valve?

should I replace compressor also? My thinking: need to remove the slid plate, I cannot do it myself, maybe I can do the compressor together with front diff oil change??



thanks
 
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jackkyxu

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The system won't run the compressor while the car is off, but will try to keep it level, so the only thing it can do is bleed air. This makes it harder to determine which corner has the issue, hence the recommendation to pull the EAS fuse. Then height drops are attributed to leak and not corrections driven by the system.

From the workshop manual:
"Periodic Re-leveling
When the vehicle is parked, the air suspension control module 'wakes up' two hours after the ignition was last switched off and then once every six hours. The vehicle height is checked and if the vehicle is not level within a pre-set tolerance, small downwards height adjustments may be made automatically"
here is height measurement


TimeLeft FrontLeft RearRight FrontRight Rear
5:55PM (EAS fuse on)34.87535.53535.5
8:45AM (EAS fuse on)34.7535.534.87535.5
8:00PM (EAS fuse off)34.535.2034.535
7:30AM (EAS fuse off)34.2535.1534.2535


here is the update

so I think there is very even leaking in the front (left rear I think it is observation error ? not right on the ruler mark)

so next is to replace the front valve?

should I replace compressor also? My thinking: need to remove the skid plate, I cannot do it myself, maybe I can do the compressor together with front diff oil change??



thanks
 
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itsaguything

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Many jump to replacing the compressor, when in fact its working fine. The valve block is the issue that many ignore the first time around.
Additionally, there is maintenance that can be done for the pump: desiccant, cleaning the air filter.
The filter is accessible without removing your running board.
 

ftillier

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If the front valve block is contaminated with desiccant powder, don't just replace it without doing something about the desiccant. The valve blocks can be serviced if you're not feeling the cost of replacement.
 

jackkyxu

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If the front valve block is contaminated with desiccant powder, don't just replace it without doing something about the desiccant. The valve blocks can be serviced if you're not feeling the cost of replacement.
thanks

for the compressor filter, should I rebuild the desiccant or just replace the dryer canister ?


any brand (LR or OEM) you recommend for valve block and dryer?
 
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Longtrail

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I agree with the advice here, I'd start by servicing the front valve block, if you see lots of desiccant then start looking at the canister on the compressor. I believe that the Hitachi compressor has the serviceable canister, not sure about AMK as I replaced mine when tackling similar issues. My suspension journey can be found in the following thread and has links to videos and where to find parts for the valves:

 

jackkyxu

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I agree with the advice here, I'd start by servicing the front valve block, if you see lots of desiccant then start looking at the canister on the compressor. I believe that the Hitachi compressor has the serviceable canister, not sure about AMK as I replaced mine when tackling similar issues. My suspension journey can be found in the following thread and has links to videos and where to find parts for the valves:

what is your recommendation of parts between original (LR: https://parts.landroverlakebluff.com/oem-parts/ ) and reputable OEM (Atlantic British https://www.roverparts.com/suspension) ?




thanks
 
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