Diy timing chain

[AGLR4]

This is everything I’ve bought to have on hand for future service.
- engine timing tool kit
- fuel pump timing tool
- fuel injector slide hammer
- fuel injector seal calibrator


Is it possible to remove/install the crank bolt in park w/ parking brake + flywheel locking pin?

It might be possible to brake it loose that way, but honestly it is ridiculously tight and could break the locking tool or a tooth off the flywheel. I grabbed the special tool off ebay and was glad I did. This tool also serves as the puller to remove the pulley as well.

The center bolt is about an inch too long to use with the radiator in place, but I just trimmed mine with a grinder and it fits in fine now.

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[blake aiken]

Does anyone want to sell their crank tool before I buy the eBay one? I’d prefer a case and ****** washers would be nice. I may put together a rental timing kit once I finish the job. TIA

 

[djkaosone]

Does anyone want to sell their crank tool before I buy the eBay one?

If you have an Autozone nearby you can get a free loaner tool called a harmonic balancer puller and reuse the 3 bolts. https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...er/oemtools-harmonic-balancer-puller/555524_0

 

[blake aiken]

This aj133 has fought me every step of the way. My s54 Nemisis the fan clutch nut has nothing on a pre rounded nut combined with a loose rental tool. Ended up sawing off the fan clutch and chiseling the nut off. Add $250 to the tab

The injectors were really really jammed up with sand. I soaked them with pb blaster but the back four were tough to pull out square. Finally got them out but the thin part of the main body cracked. I was on the fence about replacing them anyway so the extra $800 was somewhat planned.

Lastly, my timing seems to have slipped a decent bit while I’ve been wiggling the crank and pulleys in this madness. Rotating the crank by hand to get keyhole to 6 oclock and it stops at 4 and bolt came loose. I put the flywheel tool back in cranked it down, checked neutral and pulled the plugs but no go.

My plan currently is to drop wood skewers in the spark holes to see where the pistons are and if needed adjust all of the camshafts to match. Does this seem sound or is there a better approach to this situation?

 

[djkaosone]

My plan currently is to drop wood skewers in the spark holes to see where the pistons are and if needed adjust all of the camshafts to match. Does this seem sound or is there a better approach to this situation?

Now that you have the crank pulley off, mark the chuck key on the visible lip on the pulley itself before mounting it back on. Yes, use the longer skewers and stick it into the #1 cylinder. Make sure your gearbox is in N. Spin the crank until the crank pulley is in the 6 o'clock position where you marked it on the lip. The skewer in cylinder 1 should be at the highest point. Timing is set btdc (before top dead center). Really important, cam lock the rear of the intake and exhaust cams on both sides with the tool or flat bar.

 

[blake aiken]

Now that you have the crank pulley off, mark the chuck key on the visible lip on the pulley itself before mounting it back on. Yes, use the longer skewers and stick it into the #1 cylinder. Make sure your gearbox is in N. Spin the crank until the crank pulley is in the 6 o'clock position where you marked it on the lip. The skewer in cylinder 1 should be at the highest point. Timing is set btdc (before top dead center). Really important, cam lock the rear of the intake and exhaust cams on both sides with the tool or flat bar.

My concern is the timing may be off enough that I’m getting piston/valve contact at 4 o clock so I’m not wanting to force it past there until I have a good idea the cams/crank are reasonably synced. Picking up some kabob sticks today to tell the story

 

[djkaosone]

My concern is the timing may be off enough that I’m getting piston/valve contact at 4 o clock so I’m not wanting to force it past there until I have a good idea the cams/crank are reasonably synced. Picking up some kabob sticks today to tell the story

I hear ya and I'd be concerned as well. What I would do is drop an endoscope down the spark plug hole to check for bent valves, check the intake valves under the intake manifold, and (if possible) check compression. Once you deem everything looks fine. I'd turn the crank. What you're probably experiencing feedback from compression in the cylinders. I was legitimately scared when I first turned the crank and it seemed like I'd break something if I turned past a certain point.

BTW... Excellent compression is above 190 psi and anything above 150 psi is good.

 

[blake aiken]

I’m not getting a good read with the skewer option so I think I’m just going to pull the cams, rotate the crank to 6 o’clock and reinstall the cams. Everything is close to where it should be and the yellow timing marks are several teeth away from where they should be so I think this approach is the safest.

How’s your dual catch can setup working? Mother of god these intake valves are gummed up.

 

[djkaosone]

I changed it up. Ended up using an10 fittings and stainless steel tubing. I like it a lot, but I'm in search of the newer plastic intake harmonic tube for better fitment.

I didn't realize some of the fittings weren't tight, so thanks for making me take some pics.

 

[blake aiken]

Have any of you heard anything about adjusting the exhaust valves? My local specialty shop heavily recommended checking and making adjustments while doing the timing chains. Apparently the exhaust side is manually adjusted with these stupid bucket shims and you have to pull the cams to replace them. Out of spec results in extra noise and rougher running. I haven’t found the procedure in my manual or the clearance spec.