What do you think, new bushings needed?

[epiclr4]

No, my indy shop did it while he was down there replacing front brakes, all fluids, spark plugs, etc. He used the factory rubber bushings, as pictured.

Ah, it seemed like these were a upgrade from the aftermarket.

 

[stufrowin]

Do you guys grease the oem rubber bushing before installing them? If so what type of grease?


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Replaced my sway bar bushings over the weekend with orange polybush. Mine weren't as bad as Umberto's, rookie mistake though and I forgot to grease them...squeak squeak. Will try to spray with silicone or lithium grease before I remove again.

Heads up very tight space on driver side upper bolt, need a deep offset 18mm box wrench, ride quality seems unchanged from oem to poly. Where as with the LCA swap I would say the change was significantly more dramatic.

 

[jwest]

I was thinking the same. I am considering using poly just for the durability and not having to worry about them for longer.

Im at ~53k miles and haven't even done the front brake pads yet. (Rears once).. So this spring I will get in there and do pads/rotors and see what else is up. I think I am pretty easy on my suspension. Iowa roads, almost no traffic and very little stop and go.

It is s misconception to assume poly bushings will last longer. I have discussed this at length with three long time mechanics and a race car builder.

 

[jwest]

Same here in MI, my brakes last forever compared to a lot of rovers.
Although it sounds like I do have a premature rear LCA bushing wear going on right now. I was thinking I'd see how hard it was to replace just the bushing only. Atlantic british has a video of doing it.

This is what I want! . But I'm getting Meyle HD control arms instead. The ball joint is upgraded from OEM.

Already have the HD sway bar ends links and they're really nicely constructed.

http://sykes-pickavant.com/products/suspension-tools/bush-removal-and-installation/2338

 

[stufrowin]

It is s misconception to assume poly bushings will last longer. I have discussed this at length with three long time mechanics and a race car builder.

Yeah I think I would have been better off with OEM for sway bar seemed like a tighter fit, as far as control arm, time will tell I have about 15k on poly and so far so good but stiffer ride.

 

[stufrowin]

This is what I want! . But I'm getting Meyle HD control arms instead. The ball joint is upgraded from OEM.

Already have the HD sway bar ends links and they're really nicely constructed.

http://sykes-pickavant.com/products/suspension-tools/bush-removal-and-installation/2338

Which sway bar end links did you get? Not happy with the ones I purchased.

 

[jwest]

I got the Meyle "HD" links and standard LR genuine sway bar bushings. Just did the rear today - both front and rear were pretty easy really.

Next week I'm putting in all 8 control arms and the new Billstein 4600 series dampers.

The control arms I took a lot of time to find the very hard to find new Meyle HD version for the front lower. also got the Meyle front upper and then for the rear whatever it is that Atlantic British is calling "premium select" nonsense. Not as happy with that LOL because I like to know who is making things but online there wasn't a good Meyle choice yet for the rear oddly. New hardware for all 8 as well.

Also doing the rear toe links and probably the front tie rod joints but those feel fine so they might not be original. Most of my parts are though and with 130k but all the extra weight the whole time 10 yrs, they seem very due.

 

[jwest]

Replaced my sway bar bushings over the weekend with orange polybush. Mine weren't as bad as Umberto's, rookie mistake though and I forgot to grease them...squeak squeak. Will try to spray with silicone or lithium grease before I remove again.

Heads up very tight space on driver side upper bolt, need a deep offset 18mm box wrench, ride quality seems unchanged from oem to poly. Where as with the LCA swap I would say the change was significantly more dramatic.

I meant to remind you, careful what you spray on poly parts as they can be destroyed by the wrong stuff. This was something the mechanic mentioned though I forget what fluid was so bad they disintegrated. It might have been as simple as ATF, brake fluid, or certain oils but I don't remember.

 

[stufrowin]

I meant to remind you, careful what you spray on poly parts as they can be destroyed by the wrong stuff. This was something the mechanic mentioned though I forget what fluid was so bad they disintegrated. It might have been as simple as ATF, brake fluid, or certain oils but I don't remember.

Thanks for heads up. I ended up spraying with silicone as I do with most non metal stuff. Thankfully that one is ok. I guess petroleum based products can cause rapid break down of poly. I ended up replacing the links with the MOOG problem solver and my problem went away. Seems good quality in comparison to the other I had on (I think beck/arnley)

Is this the first time you've had to do the front control arms? My lower we're toast at 60k and have about 20k on the reworked ones.

 

[mbw]

I was having a squeak and a little tick/pop sound every revolution when turning almost full lock at slow speed yesterday. I can't reproduce it today. It's not rubbing anything that I can tell. (the wire harness on driver front is moved)... shrug

I ordered a set of front timken bearings just to have in case I need them. Also going to do front brakes this week (still on original pads/rotors at 53k miles!).

I hope its not CV or something. Could it be any of the other bushings?