LR4 Second Battery Install
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umbertob
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I have taken another look at that auxiliary battery compartment tonight, relocating the transfer box control module and wiring harness out of the way doesn't really look that difficult as long as you are willing to "waste" that plastic enclosure for the module (which doesn't seem like a big problem. On my 2006 Sport, the module has no enclosure, and would still be protected from the elements inside the plastic box.) I like Greg's relocation job, and I think running the cable through the firewall al the way to the rear of the car to install the twin 12v receptacles may actually be the more challenging than clearing the battery tray area... Definitely looks doable.
Hi again Umberto, running cabling to the rear of an LR3 and LR4 is a snack.
These vehicle ( including the RRS ) are one of the easiest vehicles I have ever come across for running cabling to the rear, both to repower the sockets in the rear cargo area and/or to supply power to a camper trailer or caravan being tow by these vehicles.
Other than a hole for an extra power socket in the back, there is no need to drill a single hole, you just use what Land Rover have already supplied.
These vehicle ( including the RRS ) are one of the easiest vehicles I have ever come across for running cabling to the rear, both to repower the sockets in the rear cargo area and/or to supply power to a camper trailer or caravan being tow by these vehicles.
Other than a hole for an extra power socket in the back, there is no need to drill a single hole, you just use what Land Rover have already supplied.
mbw
Full Access Member
Oh, good. Awesome. Its on my mod list.
NASdiesel
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The Traxide kit just arrived at my house. If I can get the time, will go in this weekend.
umbertob
Full Access Member
How do you jump start the car if both cranking and auxiliary batteries die with Traxide? Does the module need to be disconnected from the main battery first (is there a chance it or the aux battery may get damaged?) Just thinking ahead to all worst-case scenarios.
@umbertob I can't weigh in on this question since I've never had to do it. But I suspect as a precaution it wouldn't be a bad idea to unplug the traxide from the lead coming from the main cranking battery. Below is a nice writeup of using your second battery for jumping your main cranking battery. It does require disconnecting the traxide.
Edit: Bummer, they don't let you link to other sites on the forum...
www(dot)disco3(dot)co(dot)uk/forum/topic56911.html?highlight=anderson+traxide&start=15
That's a 15 at the end... It keeps throwing a space between the numbers. Frustrating. Must be because I don't have enough posts to link to external sites.
Edit: Bummer, they don't let you link to other sites on the forum...
www(dot)disco3(dot)co(dot)uk/forum/topic56911.html?highlight=anderson+traxide&start=15
That's a 15 at the end... It keeps throwing a space between the numbers. Frustrating. Must be because I don't have enough posts to link to external sites.
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NASdiesel
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Agreed, or pull the in-line fuse to the traxide unit.
umbertob
Full Access Member
Hey Greg, where did you relocate the large socket that was connected on the bottom of the plastic box for the t-case module? I removed the box and moved the module out of the way using the same alarm horn bracket you did (I am "making room" for the battery while I wait for the Traxide kit), everything went well but I cannot find a suitable location for that large socket / connector, it's just laying loose in the box for now. Thanks. I also looked around a bit and cannot see the access plug on the firewall - but I didn't looked that hard, either.
