Anyone have Tactical Rover Sliders?

[JeremyPDX]

Jwest - Thanks for the tips on corrosion-proofing the sliders before applying the final finish. I had the old, chipped powder coating stripped at a shop here in Portland and I have yet to move forward on applying a final finish. I have had stuff zinc plated before at this place, http://www.tfcplating.com/Home.html and could contact them about some of their services. They have a black zinc coating process that sounds interesting. I decided not to go with powder coating due to the fact that it will eventually chip and it is impossible to touch up and make it look good again.

I am aware of the compressor differences but haven't really taken into account what I would do with the sliders if my original compressor failed. I did rebuild the dryer and install a rebuild kit as preventive maintenance and it seems to work great now... I'm not a big fan of the idea of boxing out the slider to make more room for a bigger compressor. I think once I decide on a coating and get them hung on the truck, I'll keep my fingers crossed that my OE compressor doesn't crap out! The Dunlop unit from Arnott looks interesting and I'd be inclined to go that route and see if I could make it work with the sliders when the time comes.

 

[jwest]

Sounds interesting but while "plating" may be better than standard coating, it is NOT galvanizing which actually interacts on a molecular level creating a new surface. It's not simply adding something on top.

Agreed that coating can chip but how it "looks" is not the biggest issue, in fact I think it can be made to look fine considering you can't see most of where they get chipped anyway. The issue is that when any crack or chip is created, it becomes a point of ingress for moisture which will eventually make it's way under the surface of coating. If it's just steel underneath, the rust will start and the coating being so strong, will just hold it in place making matters worse.
I felt like galvanizing would make them last longer than the vehicle

Even if a deep gouge happens, the galvanization will not "peel" away like a plating or coating and worst case, the rust will only be at the actual gouge or cut.

 

[Houm_WA]

I just sand and paint the surface rust once a year....flat black spray paint looks pretty good on these sliders.

 

[jwest]

I'm sure it looks great but unless you're getting to all the rust that is protected from your efforts by being mounted to the vehicle and inside the tubes, they are just slowly rusting away out of sight.

Nothing I did was for cosmetics. I couldn't care much less how they look.

 

[jwest]

They have a black zinc coating process that sounds interesting. I decided not to go with powder coating due to the fact that it will eventually chip and it is impossible to touch up and make it look good again.

... I'm not a big fan of the idea of boxing out the slider to make more room for a bigger compressor. .

1- upon more thought, I wonder if they could do the plating over a galvanized surface? That could be a killer "one-two-punch" for near 100% durable process. May not be as good on sliders but bumpers.... I'm curious to how shinny the "black plating" is when all finished. Imagine a bumper that simply IS new forever.

UPDATE: just talked with TFC. "cannot plate over galvanized surface" "however, galvanizing is probably about the best possible for offroading application" "like any coating, if plating surface is broken, water will get to the steel and rust under the plating"

-I'm still going to look into custom Aluminess bumpers and sliders next time around and then anodizing.

2-I agree, boxing the slider lower just to allow massive air compressor is not the correct approach. One of the good aspects of the RS slider is how continuously smooth it is underneath the "slide" on obstructions. Boxing out a section could act like an anchor.

 

[Houm_WA]

I suppose I could consider galvanizing at some point. I would likely wait until I need a new compressor since I'd have to have one slider off for that, anyway. I know that it's laborious to take them on and off; and each time you do it, the fit is not as good. I would like to avoid that.

If you don't mind sharing the info, jwest, how much did galvanizing them cost?

 

[jwest]

Cost I think was in the $200 range for the pair but may have been $250.

I have to ask, as nicely as I can, what the hell are you talking about "fit is not as good"? What's going on with yours?

In my experience, it's no different than swapping winter to summer wheels year after year. Nothing about mine has ever changed in how well they fit. In fact, after a couple times, I figured out a "method" to do it as easily as possible. I can drop one side in about 15 minutes max and install in about 20 which includes gathering up the 2 sizes of sockets, extension, hammer drill-driver, floor jack with rubber pad, clear protective oakley for dirt bits.

 

[jwest]

I could find name of the place but the powdercoating was at RMC.

Had I been prepped better, I just would have done the Kaymar too but it's held up very well other than the parts attached to the actual bumper.

 

[Houm_WA]

jwest, fair question. I have never really dropped them myself; but the people who installed them (a reputable indi) said they were a LOT of work to install and the LR Seattle service department noted that they work labor intensive.

My comments about fit are theoretical. The more a fastener is removed and then re-used, the interference fit would necessarily have to degrade.

 

[jwest]

Too bad you didn't ask me to help install them. You'd see how fairly direct it is.

Again, it's no more degrading than wheel bolts. Now, not taking care with cross threading, over tightening, etc, like people who don't give a **** if your vehicle parts leave their hands the way they arrived, now that's another topic.