New dash cam

[umbertob]

After 6 years of valiant service, last week my Cowon AC-1 auto capsule (a by-now ancient dash cam) finally bit the dust, I guess 6 years recording non stop in a hot cabin eventually took their toll. So I decided to "demote" my front windshield dash cam (a Blackvue DR500GW-HD) to the rear window where the Cowon used to be, and purchased a newer dash cam for the windshield. After a bit of research I set my sight on the newly released Street Guardian SG9665GC, because I liked the form factor and the specs and components of this tiny camera looked really good on paper. All-glass 7-element lens, latest Sony CMOS sensor for quality video day and night, accepts 64GB microSD cards, GPS, a capacitor in lieu of a battery, a G-sensor with adjustable sensitivity, it even includes a (tiny) LCD monitor to orient the camera, change settings and review footage without silly Wi-FI connections required. After using it for a week I am very satisfied with its performance and its video quality - best I have seen so far out of a dash cam, and I have had several to compare over the years. I highly recommend it if you are shopping for a dash cam, and thought I'd post some photos.

Since it is so small, I decided to install the camera right behind the driver's side of the rear view mirror, so I can push the "Panic" button to save an important recording if I have to, without stretching. Otherwise, the camera just records 3-minute clips continuously on the microSD card (about 17-18 hours at its highest resolution) when the engine is running, erasing the oldest clips when the card fills up. Here are a couple of shots - the white thingie next to it is my toll roads transponder. The camera is the bottom part with the little monitor only. The kit also includes an optional wire cover, which you may choose not to install if you don't mind seeing the two wires (power and GPS antenna) above it. I installed it because it looked cleaner that way, and the cover is over the blacked out portion of the windshield anyway.

On the left side of the dash cam body you see the microSD card, microphone (very sensitive, it records everything inside the cabin - but you can switch audio recording off in the settings if you want) and the adjustment knob for the lens angle.

One advantage of this design is that the lens of the camera really "hugs" the windshield, even a steeply raked one. So, unwanted reflections and video footage of the dash, A-pillars and other stuff you don't care about are minimized despite the fairly wide angle (135 degrees) of the camera, you see your hood and that's pretty much it.

More to follow...

 

[umbertob]

This dash cam works at 5V DC, so there is a built-in transformer from 12 to 5V within the supplied cigarette lighter adapter. I could have purchased an optional hardwiring kit for it, but decided instead to install a 12V female receptacle above the overhead console - purchased for about $8 at a local auto supplies store - to connect the cig lighter adapter to. Had to switch the TPMS module around - the antenna of the module got in the way, but flipping it around was no problem and left enough clearance. I shared the same switched 12V lead used for my radar detector and Velcroed the 12V socket to the roof. So, the camera receives power and starts recording when I open the doors and turns off when I lock them, along with my ****** 9500ix detector. You can see a small detail of the installed receptacle below:

After installation, the camera is very inconspicuous, which I like. If you don't know it is there, it is nearly impossible to see it from outside the car as it is right in front of the rear view mirror and the body is all matte black, so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.

I ran the GPS antenna from the camera above the headliner and down the driver's side A-pillar, sticking it on the dash near the lower LH side of the windshield. Surprisingly, and unlike the GPS built into my ****** radar detector which sometimes takes 20-30 minutes before acquiring a signal, this antenna has no trouble locking right away to the birds up there, despite the heated windshield. GPS information is embedded within the video files, so with a compatible viewer you can see yourself superimposed on a Google map along with your speed. The speed and GPS coordinates are NOT recorded over the video footage however, only date, time, and (if you want) your license plate # are. That's another thing I like. We don't want to give cops and insurance companies TOO much information about our speed when using these videos in court or to document an accident... Date and time are sync'd via GPS, so this is truly a set-and-forget camera.

 

[namenda]

I just bought the Blackvue DR650 2ch, but haven't had a chance to install it. Are the specs of the DR650 comparable to the Street Guardian?

 

[umbertob]

And this is what happened to my poor Blackvue, relegated to the rear window, lol. Nice dash cam with lots of bells and whistles (Wi-Fi, parking mode), but the video quality is quite compressed and full of artifacts, the Street Guardian just blows it away, it's not even close. It'll do fine recording video from the rear window from now on. I have it hard wired to my auxiliary battery by splicing into the 12V receptacle in the loadspace area.

I know there is a growing interest about these devices here in the US (I have been using them for years), so I thought this might help some of you thinking about a camera. Recording an accident or other mishaps happening in front of you on the road may save you lots of money one day.

The Street Guardian SG9665GC is available for $200 online, can't post the link here to avoid the tacky advertising from screwing up the forum, but just search for that model on Amazon.com. Not the cheapest, but a really good quality camera, and their customer support from Pier28 (the US distributor) has been excellent so far. I had a couple of questions I fired off via email and I got a response in minutes, on a Saturday night!

 

[umbertob]

I just bought the Blackvue DR650 2ch, but haven't had a chance to install it. Are the specs of the DR650 comparable to the Street Guardian?

Not sure honestly. Blackvues have great features and are quality built cameras, but older models used very low bitrates and high compression in their recordings, most likely to fit more of them on the memory cards. Even at the highest quality the results often looked pixelated, blocky and full of digital artifacts to me (especially at speed), I could barely make out license plates unless the cars were sitting right in front of my bumper, so I was not overly impressed with my DR500's video quality. Their newer cameras may very well have addressed that, however.

You get lots on unbiased and helpful advice on forums such as dashcamtalk com if you want to research these devices before pulling the trigger.

 

[mbw]

I know you have posted before about the wiring, but if you could add some more details about how you setup all the wiring, that would really make this thread complete. How would a fresh vehicle go about setting up the front camera?

I really would like to do this project. I have a bit of a backlog of projects... ive got the traxide dual battery kit just sitting around also.

 

[umbertob]

I used the same blueprint that worked on my 2006 Sport. Although there is some additional stuff above the overhead console of an LR4 (the TPMS module, for one - didn't have that on my 2006), the basic wiring is exactly the same. To connect a radar detector and/or a dash cam that turn on when you unlock the doors and turn off when you lock them - or about 5-10 minutes later if you don't - you need a steady, 12V switched source of power up there, and a ground/earth point.

Always disconnect the negative lead from the car battery before you start messing around with anything electrical. Open up the overhead console: pull it down from the front edge with your fingertips and it will swing open like a book. Observe the two main harnesses connected to the dangling console: there is a striped green / white wire in the harness for the overhead map lights that works as a switched 12V lead, just splice your positive (usually red) wire with inline fuse from the radar detector or dash cam's hardwiring kit into that lead. I use 18-14 ga. rapid splices available at most hardware and auto parts stores, although many hardwiring kits include them in the box already. Careful as there is an identical looking, green/white striped wire going to the other harness for the sunroof switch and microphone. Don't splice into that wire by mistake, as it will not work.

Then, slightly loosen one of the many unpainted bolts up there and connect your negative/black lead from the hardwiring kit (with a U or O-ring terminal to secure it between bolt and washer, or just wrap the copper lead several times around such bolt) as your ground, and tighten the bolt. That's about it. Connect your device / camera / detector to the hardwiring kit you just hooked up, reconnect the battery and test. If everything fires up (and turns off when you lock the doors with the remote), as finishing touch use some small zip ties to secure and tie together any loose wiring and dangling connectors, and push the front edge of the overhead console up against the roof until it snaps back in place. Done.

PS: I had posted the procedure in much greater detail and with photos on the RRS forum at rangerovers.net, unfortunately I believe you need to be registered as a forum member to be able to see the photos: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/9-range-rover-sport-l320/17427-hardwiring-radar-detector.html

 

[Quijote]

I may have to do this in the next few weeks. Looks great!.

 

[LOMartin]

fantastic work, thank you for taking the time to put this write up together.

 

[ycharlie]

umbertob, any tips on installing the rear cam? i've been using the cowon aw1 up front and love it. been thinking about installing one for the back but have not found good way to tuck the cabling.