LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

[ryanjl]

You may want to go back and read post #'s 267-270 (click link below).

I'd try the aftermarket Lubelocker gasket linked in #270:

LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

It will be impossible to use anything but the side port to fill the transmission. Filling from the bottom will just have the fluid dropping right back onto your face. Ryan is correct. Unless there is a plastic pipe connected above the pan fill/drain port, it's unpossible to fill this way...

www.landroverworld.org

I opened my Atlantic British rebuild kit (never used it; I've got it for sale in the sales section) and the standard gasket was ripped from the factory. That's all I needed to order the Lubelocker gasket... which I also wound up never using and is included in the sale.

 

[Pfunk951]

Just to confirm, both mating surfaces were cleaned and smooth, correct? Otherwise it might be what txfromwi is alluding to, maybe there may be a flatness/damage to the surfaces..?

Possibly, the bolts may not be applying the correct pressure to the pan if they are fighting corrosion/dirt and are setting off the torque wrench too early. I clean my threads pretty well (at least chasing them with the new bolt) to ensure they'll seat properly. Many times i've pushed a volcano of grime out of the top of the tapped holes.

Maybe you could remove a single bolt around one of the leaks, chase the hole with a longer bolt (or tap), and reinstall the bolt and torque..?

I've done 5 of these now (and standing by to do RyanJL's) and never had a leak- the gasket and mating surfaces are pretty stout.. Frustrating to hear this is happening, keep us abreast with the progress..

MP

 

[powershift]

If you aren't torquing it properly (specific ft-lbs and sequence) like someone else mentioned that would cause leaks.

 

[glotto]

Guys, Thanks for the replies and instructions. I have the new lubelocker gasket ordered and I'm putting in an order for the little torque wrench right now. I will report back later in the week hopefully with a win.

The wrench listed above is no longer available so i went with the one below. It looks to be a match with just a different name attached. It was pretty tight around those cross members so i will be pleasantly surprised if this fits. did you guys lift the transmission like was seen in the AB video?

PRO BIKE TOOL 1/4 Inch Drive Click Bicycle Torque Wrench Set – 2 to 20 Nm – Maintenance Kit for Road and Mountain Bikes - Includes Allen and Torx Screws, Extension Bar and Storage Box - ISO Certified​

 

[glotto]

Just to confirm, both mating surfaces were cleaned and smooth, correct? Otherwise it might be what txfromwi is alluding to, maybe there may be a flatness/damage to the surfaces..?

Possibly, the bolts may not be applying the correct pressure to the pan if they are fighting corrosion/dirt and are setting off the torque wrench too early. I clean my threads pretty well (at least chasing them with the new bolt) to ensure they'll seat properly. Many times i've pushed a volcano of grime out of the top of the tapped holes.

Maybe you could remove a single bolt around one of the leaks, chase the hole with a longer bolt (or tap), and reinstall the bolt and torque..?

I've done 5 of these now (and standing by to do RyanJL's) and never had a leak- the gasket and mating surfaces are pretty stout.. Frustrating to hear this is happening, keep us abreast with the progress..

MP

I only scrubbed the transmission surface but i used carb cleaner to prep the pan surface. as for the holes, I tapped the ones that i could get to and one of those is involved with the leak. I will see if i can clean those out better.

 

[gsxr]

Here's another option for a low-torque 1/4" wrench, the TEKTON mode TRQ21101 is rated 1.1-16.9 Nm:

Amazon.com

 

[alldazed]

Just to confirm, both mating surfaces were cleaned and smooth, correct? Otherwise it might be what txfromwi is alluding to, maybe there may be a flatness/damage to the surfaces..?

Possibly, the bolts may not be applying the correct pressure to the pan if they are fighting corrosion/dirt and are setting off the torque wrench too early. I clean my threads pretty well (at least chasing them with the new bolt) to ensure they'll seat properly. Many times i've pushed a volcano of grime out of the top of the tapped holes.

Maybe you could remove a single bolt around one of the leaks, chase the hole with a longer bolt (or tap), and reinstall the bolt and torque..?

I've done 5 of these now (and standing by to do RyanJL's) and never had a leak- the gasket and mating surfaces are pretty stout.. Frustrating to hear this is happening, keep us abreast with the progress..

MP

I used a thread cleaner bolt too as per a specific instruction somewhere along with the genuine zf bolts. I did have to lift the transmission each time but it’s on a Range Rover sport so may be different and has became a 10 minute procedure.

 

[Lgibson]

It really is much easier to remove the large bolt and jack it up a bit, doesn't take much time at all.

 

[txfromwi]

For the 2013 - V6.

I did not jack up the transmission.

I did not use spray tack.
Think about it, you are spraying an adhesive on/inside the pan. Do you actually know that is remains set and does not dissolve in the transmission fluid? Do you actually
know how it might behave in the transmission over time and with heat? Do you know that it will not degrade the LubeLocker gasket? Not a risk I am willing to take.

So here is how I did that bit.
Place the gasket on the pan, get the orientation correct. Set the gasket aside being sure to maintain the proper orientation.
Place the pan roughly in place, it rests on the frame members.
If you use that paper gasket this will be challenging, but if you are using the LubeLocker, because it is more rigid, it's easy.
Slide the gasket roughly into place, being sure to maintain proper orientation.
Use some guide pins, I used 4. Metric hex bolts, Stainless steel 316 (A-4), 6mm x 1.0mm x 40mm.
Slide the assy up into place, secure with a few of the standard bolts, remove guide pins and continue.

It's a good idea to be sure the threads are clean. Just run a bolt in and out, if you want to get fancy you could use a thread follower - not a thread cutter!
I noted significant grit, possibly from factory thread locker? on the 2016, but none on the 2013.

I did order genuine ZF bolts. I compared to the bolts from the "kit" and I found them to be identical down to and including the mold marks.
I believe the bolts that came with the kit, at least mine, to be ZF bolts.

 

[glotto]

Got the job completed yesterday and wanted to give an update and to thank for all the great suggestions. I got the lubelocker gasket and put it on. Ran the threads with a bolt and did the incremental torque at 6 and 12 Nm. it still leaked! Took it all apart for the third time and noticed that the lube locker had a smeared bit of gasket material on it. Called up summit and they sent out a replacement. In the mean time, I found a 6M tap that was stubby and could fit into the tight spaces. This seemed to help. I could feel resistance on the tap about midway through the hole so it was cleaning stuff out better than just a bolt. Remounted the new gasket and re-torqued. Had some leaks STILL. I quickly slid under the vehicle and re-torqued again and found that several of the fasteners could be tightened more to get to 12Nm. A previous poster stated that he had to do the tightening several times. That seemed to fix it. Everything seems to be good. The transmission isn't slipping anymore and I'm glad it is done.
On another note, I'm now an expert in doing the transmission pan. If anyone in Michigan is interested. I only charge $6000 and have a 3 week turnaround!