LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

[txfromwi]

I am about to begin the 6 speed procedure on the 2013.
I am hoping to do a fluid flush rather than a simple drain and fill, which means I need to open up the transmission fluid cooler lines.
The easiest spot is at the transmission cooler, super easy to access.

Does anyone know the torque specification for those connections?
There is no information in the mechanics manual.
Thanks.

 

[RoverTide]

I am about to begin the 6 speed procedure on the 2013.
I am hoping to do a fluid flush rather than a simple drain and fill, which means I need to open up the transmission fluid cooler lines.
The easiest spot is at the transmission cooler, super easy to access.

Does anyone know the torque specification for those connections?
There is no information in the mechanics manual.
Thanks.

Unfortunately, I do not know the torque specs. But, I do know that I will be looking forward to one of your highly detailed videos on this procedure.

 

[txfromwi]

Ha, Ha! It's in work... More night time sleeping aid for insomnia !

 

[glotto]

hey guys, this question is about a 2013 LR4 (5.0)
Been following this thread from afar and decided to tackle the transmission pan project today.
I got the kit from Atlantic British and man it was a pain. The disassembly was super easy. I thought I was home free until the reassembly came up.
I followed the directions in this thread and the YouTube video that AB put out on the process. Their kit uses allen head bolts and washers instead of hex bolts or torx head bolts. This made reassembly a big pain in the rear as I couldn't use my handy flat ratchet with the torx bit. HOURS to get those bolts in following the pattern suggested online.
I sprayed the high tack gasket spray on both sides of the gasket and was very careful of aligning the holes. Cleaned the mating surface with a green pad prior. AB indicates to just snug up the bolts. This threat suggested 8NM, which is what i did. I was not able to get a torque wrench on the bolts on the ends so I just did my best to snug them down with an allen wrench.
Did the warming procedure after filling up with around 3 quarts of fluid. Went under the vehicle when it got to 40C and...holy crap... there are leaks from 3-4 different areas. tried snugging down the bolts more with no improvement.
Very disheartening as it took me some serious time today.
Has anyone else ran into this? do I need to try the other gasket listed in a previous post? Is my pan messed up from over-torqing? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[powershift]

Are you using the same pan? I'd look to see if its bent. Another thing is depending on the situation, if you are using a gasket and RTV, let RTV completely cure first.

 

[gsxr]

What gasket did you use, or rather what pan gasket is included in the Atlantic British kit?

 

[glotto]

I used the steel pan and gasket from the kit, which is a fibrous flat gasket. Not sure of the actual material but it is looks like dark cork.
As for the RTV, I sprayed the stuff on and waited about 5 to 10 minutes while i was getting it ready to install. Not sure what the can says i will take a look.
I appreciate the input.

 

[gsxr]

You may want to go back and read post #'s 267-270 (click link below).

I'd try the aftermarket Lubelocker gasket linked in #270:

LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

It will be impossible to use anything but the side port to fill the transmission. Filling from the bottom will just have the fluid dropping right back onto your face. Ryan is correct. Unless there is a plastic pipe connected above the pan fill/drain port, it's unpossible to fill this way...

www.landroverworld.org

 

[txfromwi]

I recently completed my 2013 with the Lubelocker and it's perfect.

You need to torque properly. You need a small torque wrench that you can obtain from a bicycle shop and a stubby socket, it fits, and you need to torque it in the correct order. The steel pan is 12Nm, torque, in order to 6, then to 12. Then go back the next day and torque to 12 again. 12 is alot more torque than you think!

See below.

The video I am making remains in work - life is getting in the way, but I will bet it completed...

Torque Wrench
Low Profile
8Nm - 12Nm

Amazon
Vibrelli Bike Torque Wrench Set - 1/4 Inch Drive - 2 to
20nm, 0.1 Nm Micro - Essential MTB & Bicycle Torque
Wrench Tools. Hex/Allen 2-10, Torx 10-30, 100mm
Extension Socket, Storage Case
$50

T-40 Socket Low Profile

Snap-On

1/4" Drive TORX®
T40 Stubby Bit
Socket (Blue-Point®)
BLPTS1440
$15
Plus $23 Shipping !!


Transmission Pan Bolts

Steel Pan
T-40 at 12Nm

Plastic Pan
T-40 at 10Nm

Aluminum Pan
(Probably) T-40 at 4Nm+ 45 Degrees

https://aston1936.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/zf-

automatic-transmission-6hp26-factory-service-guide.pdf



As I will discuss in the video, there are 5 different torque orders to be found out there, three from ZF...
Here is what most folks use and what I used.

 

[alldazed]

I used the steel pan and gasket from the kit, which is a fibrous flat gasket. Not sure of the actual material but it is looks like dark cork.
As for the RTV, I sprayed the stuff on and waited about 5 to 10 minutes while i was getting it ready to install. Not sure what the can says i will take a look.
I appreciate the input.

I used the same kit on a range rover sport but got the proper zf bolts. Used the same high tack spray as the ab video and had the same problem re leaks. Found a small enough torque wrench and used one of the correct sequences and it took me three attempts / retorques and three short drives to get it to seal properly . Sprayed the leaked fluid off each time with brake cleaner . It was nearly as though there was a slight twist in the pan. As stated above 12nm was a lot more than my guesswork the first time.