LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

[wthammett]

I just finished a flush and fill on my 2011 5.0 and wanted to offer three observations:

1 - Do not think the final step of bringing the car to operating temp, trans at 95* and removing fill plug to check level and add more fluid can be skipped - I tried it and was wrong. During my simple drain and fill I thought I had added enough fluid in while the truck was off, it looked liked I had filled in close to what I had drained out right? Wrong - when I removed the fill plug while the truck was on and trans at 95* temp I had no fluid dripping out like when the truck was off and cold. I proceeded to add over 3 quarts of fluid! This is after thinking how much more could it hold, I've already filled it until it started dripping out - that is cold, the last step of checking and adding while the truck is running is not a step to skip.

2 - For all those that say don't change the fluid on an older vehicle with a lot of miles, my truck has 164,000 miles and the old tranny fluid looked like dirty motor oil. I used Ford Mercon SP fluid and the trans feels incredible now, it's admittedly a short sample size but that's where I'm at.

3 -Damn that exhaust is running close to where you have to put your hands to reach the fill plug and operate a hand pump to add more fluid, be careful and take your time before launching on this job. Although I didn't buy the new pan and filter and swap those out I want to thank those on this thread who did and took the time to illustrate the parts and the job, that's why these forums are invaluable, I tip my cap to you.

 

[avslash]

Resurrecting this old, but excellent thread.

This is my next maintenance project.

Wondering if anyone else has removed the Mechatronic unit while doing this to do the following:

1. Replace rubber Mechatronic bridge seals/tubes
2. Replace Mechatronic solenoids.

The rubber(ish) seals look to be about $50.00 in total, and replacement solenoids seem to be available for a bit less than $300.00.

I'm wondering if there is any reason not to do these additional steps while the pan is already off.

It's a bit more cash, obviously, but I'm thinking with a new pan with drain plug, it should set a thus-far trouble free transmission up for a good, long service life with regular fluid changes.

Thoughts???

 

[Lgibson]

Will this kit fit the 8-speed ZF found on the 2015 LR4?

 

[avslash]

Will this kit fit the 8-speed ZF found on the 2015 LR4?

Mine is a 2012, and thus a 6 speed, but I think you will find what you need for yours at thectsc.com, as well.

 

[Huy Tran]

I would say that the bridge and tubes/seals are a definite must.
Those parts degrade over time and allow fluid to bypass and cause harsh and mis-shifts and eventual damage to the clutch packs. It's easy enough to replace while doing the filter. Just take your time and and be meticulous. You'll also need to do an adaptation reset. The pressure difference was enough to throw a bunch of codes on first start up. I replaced mine but the damage was already done and ended up needing a rebuild.

 

[avslash]

I would say that the bridge and tubes/seals are a definite must.
Those parts degrade over time and allow fluid to bypass and cause harsh and mis-shifts and eventual damage to the clutch packs. It's easy enough to replace while doing the filter. Just take your time and and be meticulous. You'll also need to do an adaptation reset. The pressure difference was enough to throw a bunch of codes on first start up. I replaced mine but the damage was already done and ended up needing a rebuild.

Adaptation reset isn't an issue, as I have the IID Tool.

Should the rest be done with the engine off, prior to starting it to bring the trans up to temperature to complete the filling process?

 

[avslash]

Just completed this today. Well, almost; still 2 skid plates to bolt up.

My truck had just about 87K even on it. I was actually pleasantly surprised that the old fluid looked as good as it did. It was dark, but not sludgey at all, and just a bit of mush on the magnets.

I would estimate I got about 6 liters of new fluid in. Maybe a bit more, but hard to be more precise as there was some spillage during my contortions under the truck.

As noted previously in this thread, no need for a hacksaw. The old filter neck snapped easily with one sharp ****.

One odd note is that when doing the final fill I tried to use my iid tool to read the fluid temp directly. It read 20c at startup, but never varied from there. I used my IR temp gun as a backup on the metal pan and did the final fill at an indicated 39.4c while the iid still said 20c.

I also dropped the mechatronic unit and replaced the bridge and tube seals. This was timely as the old bridge had snapped a piece off.

Test drive is complete, and she shifts as expected, so a sigh of relief there. Monkeying with the mechatronic had me a bit nervous after some of my research.

A lift would make this a breeze, but it is doable on your back in the garage.

ETA: . For anyone doing their research, I did not reset the adaptions after changing the mechatronic bridge/seals. No issue with error codes or shifting for me after 200 miles driving today.

 

[DaytonaRS7]

Just did this at 138k miles.

She now shifts better and solved a minor rpm hunting (about 100rpm cycling at cruising speed) which I assume was the toque converter.

I did the break the old filter neck method, rather than hack saw. Worked like a charm.

3.5 hours, including test drive and clean up. This was a messy job.

 

[Pfunk951]

I'm about to go back in and do mine again, I only got about half the fluid out the first time.

This RPM hunting thing- I'm having a bit of it.. My buddy in an LR3 has it.. I had the truck at the dealership, they noticed it, and after 2 weeks they couldn't track it down. They also assumed it was the torque converter..

I'll do mine again this weekend and report back to see if it fixes it..

MP

 

[TrungH]

Got under there a few weeks ago to take care of this 9 year, 80k mile old fluid. Thanks to all the great tips in this thread for guiding me through the process. While it took quite a bit longer than expected, a good chunk of it was just figuring out how to take off some of those damn pan screws. I cannot stress enough though how essential it is to have a low profile ratcheting T40 of some sort. I ended up improvising by taping off one box end of a 1/4" wrench and sticking a T40 bit in there to reach those tricky bolts. It was awful.

Had my wife help me pump the fluid (the HF Transfer Pump ($4 with coupon), was very helpful) as I monitored the plug. Ended up only filling about 4.75 QTs. Still have a couple of bottles of ZF Fluid from rover parts if anyone in the SF Bay Area wants them at a discount.

That fluid was definitely due for a change. Shifts were buttery smooth after the change (though they weren't bad at all to begin with)