LR4 brake issues

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ryanjl

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What brand rotors did you use?

You've pretty much changed all the parts I'd think it could be, so it could be one of those has gone bad already.

LCAs typically last around 60k miles or more, although it's not beyond the realm of possibility that ones could go bad at 44k miles. What LCA and bushings did you use?
 

itsaguything

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That. And I wouldn't be at all surprised if there is significant pad material affixed to the disk, causing variances in thickness, presenting itself as the wobble and shimmy.

Pads and rotors by different providers differ drastically in quality. And the cheaper the replacements, the shorter the life and poorer the braking performance. In the short term, a sanding of the rotor may be helpful.
 

RoverTide

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What brand rotors did you use?

You've pretty much changed all the parts I'd think it could be, so it could be one of those has gone bad already.

LCAs typically last around 60k miles or more, although it's not beyond the realm of possibility that ones could go bad at 44k miles. What LCA and bushings did you use?
The previous owner had all that work done... I have the receipts, but don't see the brands listed with the parts.

That. And I wouldn't be at all surprised if there is significant pad material affixed to the disk, causing variances in thickness, presenting itself as the wobble and shimmy.

Pads and rotors by different providers differ drastically in quality. And the cheaper the replacements, the shorter the life and poorer the braking performance. In the short term, a sanding of the rotor may be helpful.

Thats a good thought, I will take the wheels off and take a look at the disc surfaces and see if that could be the culprit. I realize these things eat brakes, but 11k miles seems a bit premature for new discs.
 

ryanjl

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It's about what I've read for disc life if cheaper discs are used.

Hell, I even had problems with EBC rotors after around 20k miles, and a lot of people love those.
 

RoverTide

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Just closing out my experience on this topic. Replaced Rotors and pads and greased caliper pins. Bought the Zimmerman rotors with the Akebono ceramic pads. Completely solved the shimmy issue. They had gotten progressively more warped by the day, to the point where the shimmy was constant even without the brakes applied. No idea what caused it/them to warp. They were JLR pads, not sure about the rotors as there were no markings on them. Only thing that seemed odd, was that the passenger side rotor was stuck to the hub pretty good. Hate that I had to replace brakes so prematurely, but at least she is back to her smooth riding self. Here is a picture of how much pad was left on those brakes... very unfortunate.
 

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BigBriDogGuy

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I ordered the complete brake kit, front and back, with genuine pads and standard rotors from British Atlantic and had my local garage guy put them on. Seem to be working well. No squeak or squeal. Stops solidly. Not sure about the "bite" I've heard others talk about. With these anti-lock brakes, I've never had anything other than smooth deceleration when applying the brakes. Asked the guy that was putting them on what he thought and he said they looked like OEM. He also mentioned the front rotors were thick and heavy compared to the ones he pulled off in the swap. Happy so far. By the way, this was the less expensive package ($700) and not the more expensive one (well over $1,000). When I asked the sales guy at AB what the difference was he said they all run the $700 brakes and the $1,000 plus ones were mostly charging for LR branding.
 

ktm525

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Just closing out my experience on this topic. Replaced Rotors and pads and greased caliper pins. Bought the Zimmerman rotors with the Akebono ceramic pads. Completely solved the shimmy issue. They had gotten progressively more warped by the day, to the point where the shimmy was constant even without the brakes applied. No idea what caused it/them to warp. They were JLR pads, not sure about the rotors as there were no markings on them. Only thing that seemed odd, was that the passenger side rotor was stuck to the hub pretty good. Hate that I had to replace brakes so prematurely, but at least she is back to her smooth riding self. Here is a picture of how much pad was left on those brakes... very unfortunate.

Have battled runout on these before, they can be temperamental. What 99% of people don't do is measure the disc runout once the rotor is installed to check that it is within limits. This ensures the rotor is mated to the hub nice and flat. Pay attention to the hubs and mating surfaces when replacing rotors.

How are the Zimmermanns doing?
 

MellonRover

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Only about 7500mi on rear Zimmerman. Fronts are some lower quality PO put on (really flaky iron) that I'm waiting until they wobble or wear out. I'll keep everyone posted.
 

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