Lr3 fault issues

[Houm_WA]

iCarsoft is NOT the "GAP Tool." The IIDTool by GAP Diagnostics is what people are referring to. I recently transitioned to the Blue Tooth version and it's awesome.

 

[zulu]

The last time i had that kind of problem it was because rodents got into my engine and chewed thru one of the wiring harnesses thats hooked up to the cpu.. Once that harness was replaced all those warning lights went away..

 

[Ian Morrison]

Suspension fault max speed 30, also parking brake fault coming on sparaticly staying on then goes away park brake seems to work. When supspension fault comes on can’t control height adjustment.will go off when driving and come back on. Has new compressor. Also lights aren’t working in auto mode sunroof and heated seats not working. Thought electrical or computer issue? 2005 lr3 4.4 motor.

I had many faults on my discovery 3 when I first picked it up. Found many of them due to water ingress in the drivers footwell. Water can get into all the wiring loom and earthing points usually ending up by either soldering the damaged wiring or replacing the damaged loom. I too had no front heated seats and found the heated seat module had been damaged. If it’s not the module it’s the wiring elements in the upper and lower seat which are easy to replace. I doubt though all four going together.
As for the suspension and park brake. The park brake has a switch attached to the brake foot pedal. Again this too can be damaged due too water ingress again caused by the water drains of the sunroof becoming blocked. I used a air compressor being put over each of drain holes. I have not had any water leaks now for nearly five years. The Air Suspension problem again could be a wiring issue possibly a short with the handbrake. Check all the earthing points inside drivers footwell. In front of the drivers door under the hinges you will see a black plastic trim which runs along to the foot pedals. Under this trim are many cables and earthing points. Again look for water damage and rusting earthing points.
I still have a outstanding issue with my discovery. Normally all my doors lock and unlock. But occasionally my rear drivers door fails to work. ive traced all rear doors wiring and they are fine. I’ve removed and tested the rear door locking mechanism again no faults. With a Discovery 3 being between between Ten and 14 years old now you will find fault occasionally but it’s fun when you solve the problem. Hope this helps you solve your issues.

 

[Len H]

Yes definitely helps. Thanks for info. Haven’t had a chance to dive into checking things out hopefully in next couple of days will be able to. Will definitely check out what you described. My thoughts were something electrical short or bad wires.

 

[m_lars]

So, people can throw out ideas and one of them may be the answer, many will not be. The reason to get the Land Rover specific scan tool (I have the Gap Diagnostics tool which I whole heartedly endorse) is that it will give you the specific codes to track it down. I had the same symptoms you did and it turned out to be a bad height sensor on the front driver’s side. The tool told me which corner caused the problem. It’s money very well spent. And get the Bluetooth version.

 

[Len H]

Yes thinking about it kinda pricey might have to wait till after christmass. Any other gap tools that might be less expensive?

 

[Greg9504]

As others have mentioned above (note Ian mentioned drivers side, however on your's it will be passenger side), there is a factory splice that only got some crappy tape over it. That combined with water from leaking sunroof drains corrodes the joint and CAN lead to the problem. This gives good diagnostic info that you can check at the brake light switch:
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/transmission-fault-hdc-traction-control-off-etc-137607.html

Or just open up the sill and look for the broken splice:


To get at it:
- remove B pillar lower trim
- remove sill cover trim (with Land Rover logo)
- remove trim where seat belt passes through seat base
- remove black trim around seat base. Front piece pops off, long side piece is held on by a Philips screw at rear, then there is a small torq's or security screw that holds the upper seat base trim at the rear, remove that, then with a lot of work you can wiggle out the lower trim piece.
- remove trim piece under dash, held on with two Philips screws, then the side kick panel (just pops off, uses same clips).
- now you can remove the large plastic piece that covers the wires. Use door panel tool to pop the clips.
Try not to break any of the clips... my dealer charged my over $8 each, I broke two on the side kick panel when reinstalling it.

Ignore the "how do I get this off" in the following pictures, just pop up the white clips using a regular door panel tool.

 

[steveC101]

So, people can throw out ideas and one of them may be the answer, many will not be. The reason to get the Land Rover specific scan tool (I have the Gap Diagnostics tool which I whole heartedly endorse) is that it will give you the specific codes to track it down. I had the same symptoms you did and it turned out to be a bad height sensor on the front driver’s side. The tool told me which corner caused the problem. It’s money very well spent. And get the Bluetooth version.

I had the same problem. The wires on the rear passenger side had loosened inside the crimp joint making it an intermittent problem. The car went up to offload height at about 60, which was fun My Hawkeye tool nailed it immediately so I ordered a new sensor (having all of them replaced 6 months earlier) and harness. The crimp was my own fault because I'd used a joint that was slightly too large on that particular one.

 

[Len H]

Any one know on 2005 lr3 where grounds are located, in addition to air suspension fault and parking brake fault coming on sparaticly together sometimes or one at a time, or not at all., lights do not come on in auto mode and discovered that when applying the brakes one brake bulb will go out. On rear taillights and back on when brake released. Had it put on fault reader and showed compressor not venting. Thinking ground because not happening all the time.

 

[Greg9504]

Here's the factory wiring pdf. Page 104 shows chassis earth locations.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=19jWLqC3U3butksAGL4IPIJD0pwb85RyU

I suspect you may have the broken splice in the rocker panels like I describe above, as at least one of your problems (brake light). But change the bulbs anyway, that may cure all your problems. The CAN bus is not tolerant to blown/shorted brake bulbs. At one point I had a blown brake bulb, and the transmission would not upshift, eventually because of over reving the engine would kick into safe mode. I could upshift in manual mode. Changed the bulb and transmission started to shift again. No errors were reported until engine over reved. Detailed here https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/auto...372.html?sid=b0926d3177a61ef41b3f8220c26726ec