Is my key dead? It won't activate door lock or alarm remotely

[OffRoving]

I doubt it takes very long to charge the key batteries and the fact that this happened to both keys simultaneously means to me it's a problem in the car...

I had my air suspension CPU reprogramed a couple of weeks ago and ever since the buttons on the key don't function. Then, a week later both of the keys started working again. Now, a week later they don't again.

What could it be? Any thoughts?

 

[umbertob]

Perhaps there is a loose connection from CJB to to the overhead RF receiver - or the receiver module itself is starting to act up? Indeed, it doesn't seem plausible that both key remotes would die simultaneously.

 

[OffRoving]

Thank Umberto. I'll tell my mechanic to check everything, from the CJB to the RF all the way through the WD40 to the muffler bearings. Applying JBWELD where needed.

J/K.

What's the CJB?

 

[OffRoving]

More info:

They said that they cleaned and reseated the suspension control module [?] which had water ingress likely from the Monsoon testing at the factory which resulted in corrosion which they cleaned. Same thing happened on my other '05 LR3.

 

[umbertob]

CJB: Central junction box. Don't know where it is in the LR3... In the RRS it's on the passenger (right) side, behind the front fascia. The RF receiver for the remote signal (once again, sorry but I don't know where that receiver is on the LR3... In the RRS it is located above the headliner, between the B-pillars just behind the sunroof) is hard wired to that box. Speaking of, what the heck is the "factory" Monsoon testing?!? Whatever type of testing it is, it doesn't sound like it would do much to prevent corrosion inside any module, maybe even the CJB.

 

[OffRoving]

Ahh. I understand now. Thanks for the info. However, I must say I am very disappointed in your lack of schematics, wiring diagrams, 3d renderings provided for my situation as you would afford others haha j/k

I think, in a round-about way the techs said it was likely exactly what you described and not related to what they fixed [sure!].

The monsoon testing was [not sure if they still do it] high pressure salt water jets from all angles under the car to test seals. On my first LR3 which was #200 of the first 200 produced for sale to employees, I had a suspension fault issue as I recall. They had the car for 3 weeks and finally send the Factory Wizard Tech out to investigate. He immediately identified it [in an hour] as a result of this testing. 10 minute swap and I was done.

Background: Normally, according to the "blue oval quality testing" [which is not unique to Ford], they make 200 cars, assemble them, disassemble them, reassemble them all to make sure the CAD and Robots and Humans worked together as designed. As a matter of protocol these cars are produced without VINS and crushed. Ford did a Six Sigma audit and found there to be no errors and a shame to crush. LR decided to sell them to employees.

Thanks Umberto!

 

[Houdini]

I have a similar problem on my LR3, one minute the remote was working well all of a sudden it stops responding. But the LED is still blinking on the dash, I will try to see id I can check the RF. I know the key us self carging during drive, I dont know if some use batteries.

 

[Houdini]

I have a similar problem on my LR3, one minute the remote was working well all of a sudden it stops responding. But the LED is still blinking on the dash, I will try to see id I can check the RF. I know the key us self carging during drive, I dont know if some use batteries, so it should not be a battery prob.

 

[umbertob]

The key remotes have batteries that recharge through the blade of the ignition key while the engine is running, but they don't keep recharging forever. On the manual Land Rover claims the nominal life of the rechargeable battery is 14 years... In my experience, the remote lasts a lot less than that (although I do have almost 120K miles on my 2006, so I have probably operated my remote far more than the average owner in 4 years...) Either that, or the circuit board contacts under the rubberized membrane buttons lose sensitivity with use and over time. Bottom line is, the original key I have used since I purchased my Sport recently "died". It started failing very sporadically - it would occasionally take some 15-20 presses and then eventually it would work - but within a couple of months it became nearly unusable. The dealer will only try to sell you a new key as they can't service these, indeed it doesn't look like the fob is serviceable and I can't figure out a way of opening it without breaking something - must be the silly "waterproof to 80 feet" water seals. Since I have the other key still brand new and working perfectly, I have just swapped keys, I'll let the new owner worry about the faulty remote when I trade my car in.

It looks like Land Rover will be using a better key on MY2010 RRS and Disco/LR4. It will be a keyless entry and keyless-go system, so there will be little need to push lock/unlock buttons to begin with. The new key will also have a user replaceable battery, and hopefully the battery will be encased in a smaller and more elegant housing than this embarrassing brick that makes you look like an unemployed **** actor whenever it's in your pants' front pocket.