Faults with new to me LR3

[Houm_WA]

I'm afraid I don't know enough about the Wheel Angle Sensor to know if one is good or bad by inspection. Prices for replacements go anywhere from $99 (used) to $350 (new) so I can see wanting to avoid throwing a part at the problem. I just know that when one of those puppies goes out, the symptoms are the same as when the brake switch is fried.

No dampness on the passenger side, huh? That's a little surprising.

 

[tgarza]

Yeah passenger side is bone dry.

A little weary at throwing more parts if i can’t definitively say it’s bad. I’ll consider the sas if I am still having problems after everything dries out and I am not able to troubleshoot my slew of issues with a multimeter.


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[CBnCO]

I had similar issues a few years ago...broken grommet elbow both sides on drain out to wheel well and plastics vent piece on on P side. Check those to fix water ingress for sure..in my case a single word splice in P side sill was corroded causing many of the same errors..pry up the plastic sill and check all splices in the wiring bundle underneath. There are clips underneath holding it down..still a PITA..but a single splice rendered my suspension inoperable. Good luck

 

[tgarza]

Found one. Poking at the loom my door locks were going crazy, then found this bad splice:

Some evidence of past water ingress, there were actually some live bugs living around the loom:

I have the splice fixed but now the doors are unlocking and flashers going when I turn the key to position 2. have I managed to activate the immobilizer somehow? How do I turn off?



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[Sean Lamoreaux]

Another place to check is the transfer case ecu located behind the battery under the hood. Especially seeing that your cowl is broken right above that location. You need to take the battery out and remove the cover. There are 2 ECUs in that location and water drips down the wires and sits on the connections and they start corroding.

 

[tgarza]

I got into the transfer case ECU and one connection had a little corrosion but no change after I cleaned it and applied a little dielectric grease to the connector. Do I need to get into the ECU behind it? Does the transfer case ecu just pop out after it’s unplugged?

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[tgarza]

Not quite done with wiring but down to these codes. I think my culprit could be the rear diff e-locker motor. I saw the “clutch position not learnt” code and thought it was a result of me resetting the can bus. However reading though forums it sounds like a real fault with the rear diff. Going to replace that motor and see if that solves my cascade of VDCM invalid data errors!

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[Houm_WA]

Good idea. Replace the actuator (motor) and then update the software or calibrate it. I know that step is required....if you don't replace the actuator, it could wear out the clutch packs in that diff.

....ask me how I know.

 

[suemo]

Is this similar to what you are getting? This is an intermittent problem with my 2006 LR3. It started with the control module being reprogrammed by a collision center tech. Usually clears after restart - but not always. Has yours ever stuck in first gear?

 

[tgarza]

I’ve only driven it a few times but I have gotten the F before and the transmission goes into limp mode...starting in second gear. Not sure if it is still doing it after all my work. A shutoff and restart fixed it.


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