E-brake lock-up!!!

[djatkinson]

I was just backing out of the garage today, used the brake to step out of the truck (2006 LR3 SE), and it made that unmistakable squealing sound. Then the dash warning light went on, and the truck wouldn't move. I've experienced the sound 2-3 times before, and only when on an incline, front facing up; so I figured it was just a matter of time before something like this would happen.
I called my Land Rover garage and the mechanic there said that I can go to the back panel on the passenger's side and pull a cable that releases the brake. Thereafter, they can erase the code, in most cases.
I know there is a thread on here that has covered this, but could someone direct me to it, or give me an idea of the worst case scenario?
Thanks in advance!

 

[Houm_WA]

1. You may want to find a new mechanic.
2. The release is under the rubber thing that looks like it would be perfect for holding a hot dog (don't do this) on the passenger side of the center console. Remove that and you'll see it. Instructions are in your Owner's Manual.
3. If you are getting the banshee howl, you need a new actuator, not just codes erased.

 

[djatkinson]

1. You may want to find a new mechanic.
2. The release is under the rubber thing that looks like it would be perfect for holding a hot dog (don't do this) on the passenger side of the center console. Remove that and you'll see it. Instructions are in your Owner's Manual.
3. If you are getting the banshee howl, you need a new actuator, not just codes erased.

Houm_WA,

Based on the quality and sheer quantity of your posts, I'm inclined to believe you.
So....if I have to replace the actuator, any ideas about the cost? Is this a potential DIY project?
Thanks!

 

[Houm_WA]

First off, thank you. That was a nice tip of the cap.

I really only know about this because I've gone through it; however, mine didn't lock up....at least, I should say, that I could turn off the engine let it sit for 10 seconds and re-start it, at which time I could disengage the parking brake.

I'd only be guessing at the cost. Mine last went out a long time ago (like over 5 years ago) and it was then covered by the extended warranty but I think it would be between $500 - $1000.

As for whether or not it's a DIY project, I know that it can be done. I don't know how tough a job it is because I haven't done it. I'm not much of a wrench-turner. No patience, space, lift, sufficient tools, etc. I'm more adept at trouble-shooting and then taking it to a pro. I know that if you DO decide to DIY, you'll want to follow Bodsy's Brake Bible.

Best of luck!

 

[roverman]

It is a pretty tough job to replace actuator. It's really stuffed up in there. My mechanic did NOT have a good time. But if you have a lift, hands the size of a small woman and a lot of patience I'm sure it can be done. I'd guess a new one and labor would easily be over two grand. I bought a used one for $400 and probably paid 400-600 in labor.

P.S. Mine never howled or locked up, just stopped working.

 

[djatkinson]

Thanks for the input, gents!
After it sat all day locked-up, out of curiosity I started the truck and the dash warning light turned off. I was able to release the brake and go about my business. This will be the next thing on my list of things to do (it seems to get longer).
I won't be using it until I get it fixed, so I hope for the time being, this doesn't rear its' ugly head again...

 

[Houm_WA]

It shouldn't rear it's ugly head if you don't use the parking brake. I would look into doing it, maybe when you need to get your rear brakes done. You could save a little bit on labor that way. I don't see how this could be a $2000 job. Even 2 hours of labor at a dealer service dept is $300. If the part is $500 that pencils out to $800 if my math is correct. Let's say I'm off by a factor of 1.5 that's still "only" $1200.

Make some calls. You know exactly what you need done so there is no diag work to do...easy quote.

 

[roverman]

I would side bet $100 that the part alone is over $1200 at the dealer!

 

[Houm_WA]

Depends on who you know...

http://landroverparts.checkeredflag...-Cable--Rear-Assembly/48769932/SNF500180.html

Not saying that my local dealer (WA state) can match this but it's a data point and they can get pretty darn close.

 

[roverman]

That's a lot less than I would guess, and I'm sure my rip off dealer would charge more. But that's pretty good. Also, it's worth noting from my experience that if you go used, make sure it's from the same year as yours. We bought one from either a 2006 or 2007 and it did not work in the 2005. There was a change (software or mechanical?) that made it incompatible.