scapistron
Full Access Member
As we are all aware some dipstick decided these things don't need a dipstick. I'm not sure I'll ever get used to turning the truck on to check the oil. My reflex is to always have my foot on the brake and that starts it.
While I had the motor out I messed around a little trying to fab up a dipstick tube that might work. Plan was to put a banjo bolt in the drain plug, adapt to 1/2" tube compression fitting, bend a stainless line up between the starter and alternator, and drop in a universal dorman dipstick. This kind of worked, but I wouldn't trust my prototype.
Aluminum washers for the banjo bolt were too hard and gave me bad vibes about stripping the drain plug hole. Copper crush or a silicone washer would be a lot better here. It needs to be relatively thick to help space the banjo off the oil pan.
I bent the stainless tube by hand. Initial 90 wasn't pretty, but it doesn't really need to be. Some slight tweaks by hand and I was able to get the tube to poke out by the coil pack for the #2 cylinder. The -08 AN compression fitting didn't put enough crush on the tube. I might have ordered the wrong tube from McMaster. It would leak a very small amount. No puddles, but you could see the oil on it. From an engineering perspective, an unsupported rigid tube with no vibration damping is a recipe for problems.
The dipstick itself was fine, but the stopper wouldn't stay in. If I had the tools to add a flare, it might have worked. For me, it just kept popping out. I'm not sure what a good off-the-shelf solution exists here. My worst solution for this is an industrial quick-release air fitting.
If I try this again I'd transition from the -08AN fitting from the banjo bolt to a hose barb or something like Jegs Push-Loc backed up by a hose clamp. Run 1/2" ID hose up past the coil pack on cylinder #2. An industrial air fitting and a quick-release cap drilled out to hold the dipstick. The engineer in me wants to add more features, a drain valve, to increase the likelihood of failure. It takes a lot to keep Mr. Hyde under control.
The aftermarket LS dipstick tubes look like they just press fit in and rely on an o-ring. I don't think that would be easily adapted. Ford used some threaded tubes back in the day (milodon 22040). Any other suggestions.
While I had the motor out I messed around a little trying to fab up a dipstick tube that might work. Plan was to put a banjo bolt in the drain plug, adapt to 1/2" tube compression fitting, bend a stainless line up between the starter and alternator, and drop in a universal dorman dipstick. This kind of worked, but I wouldn't trust my prototype.
Aluminum washers for the banjo bolt were too hard and gave me bad vibes about stripping the drain plug hole. Copper crush or a silicone washer would be a lot better here. It needs to be relatively thick to help space the banjo off the oil pan.
I bent the stainless tube by hand. Initial 90 wasn't pretty, but it doesn't really need to be. Some slight tweaks by hand and I was able to get the tube to poke out by the coil pack for the #2 cylinder. The -08 AN compression fitting didn't put enough crush on the tube. I might have ordered the wrong tube from McMaster. It would leak a very small amount. No puddles, but you could see the oil on it. From an engineering perspective, an unsupported rigid tube with no vibration damping is a recipe for problems.
The dipstick itself was fine, but the stopper wouldn't stay in. If I had the tools to add a flare, it might have worked. For me, it just kept popping out. I'm not sure what a good off-the-shelf solution exists here. My worst solution for this is an industrial quick-release air fitting.
If I try this again I'd transition from the -08AN fitting from the banjo bolt to a hose barb or something like Jegs Push-Loc backed up by a hose clamp. Run 1/2" ID hose up past the coil pack on cylinder #2. An industrial air fitting and a quick-release cap drilled out to hold the dipstick. The engineer in me wants to add more features, a drain valve, to increase the likelihood of failure. It takes a lot to keep Mr. Hyde under control.
The aftermarket LS dipstick tubes look like they just press fit in and rely on an o-ring. I don't think that would be easily adapted. Ford used some threaded tubes back in the day (milodon 22040). Any other suggestions.
