Yes, per above replace the alternator. The link below has a couple of files within that discusse the charging system setup on my LR3. I expect there is not much difference between the 3 and 4 with regards to the electrical system. Well, I guess it did get even more fussy.
In brief, the internal regulator within the alternator is probably sick. While Ford calls them a Smart Regulator, in reality the regulator design is to me, very dumb. Rather than like the old days where the regulator used to communicate directly with the battery, now the regulator sends its signals to the engine computer (ECM, Engine Control Module) and the alternator located regulator gets its instructions back from the engine computer, not the battery.
The thinking behind this design is pollution controls related and while it might work re emissions, it does not do a very good job of looking after the battery. Effectively, the battery never gets to more than an 80% State of Charge (SoC). This might be a good concept for your cell phone battery but does not work very well for our mobile 4x4 computers masquerading as Land Rovers.
In any case, something goes wrong with the electronics in the regulator and the only practical fix is a new alternator, and hope that the regulator within is good.
My story/education is that my 3 used to eat taillights when it was new.
Every six months or so, I was replacing a bulb back there (use only genuine Land Rover). After watching my ScanGauge voltage readout being high 14 volts as a norm, I decided to install a rebuilt alternator.
That solved the taillight problem but I eventually realized the system voltage was now charging most days at closer to low 13 volts than 14. I figured it was again the regulator so replaced that alternator with another and all good for many years.
Also the dash red alternator light is controlled by the ECM, not the alternator or whatever like it used to be, hence when it goes on, you really do not know what it signals other than maybe an unhappy ECM.
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