About to install G4 raised air intake myself, then How
- Thread starter ablapia
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jjvd21
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RAI Installation
Air Inlet Grill
To remove the air inlet grill you need to first lift it straight up and then rotate the lower edge away from the LR3. The easiest way to do this is stand next to the grill with your back to the vehicle. Place your hands behind your back and grasp the grill. Lift upwards and when you feel the lower edge of the grill is free, move away from the vehicle. This sounds like a strange procedure but it does work.
A Pillar Trim
This is a little harder to do without breaking the plastic trim part. It is held in place with a number of push pins. Most likely one or more of these pins will break when you remove the A-pillar trim panel. I suggest you pick up a few spares before you start. In addition, you will use one less pin one the reinstall because you will use the top trim mounting hole to attach a bracket.
Grab both edges of the trim panel at the bottom and pull it away from the A-pillar. At first only lift it out a small amount and move up the pillar a few inches (looking for the next push pin) and pull it out. Work your way to the top then repeat the process pulling it out a little further. (The pins are about ¾ of an inch long.) You want to avoid bending the trim and using it as a lever.
Here are notes from my installation.
The metal bracket that attaches to the lower opening if the RAI was not properly machined. The appearance of this part differs from bracket shown in the installation instructions. Specifically:
• Spacing of the four mounting holes for attaching the bracket to the RAI assembly is not correct. As received from Land Rover, any three of the mounting holes on the bracket would align with the plastic assembly. The solution was to elongate the lower front mounting hole to allow proper alignment.
• The lower edge of the bracket extends too far down. This lower edge rests against the bottom of the fender indent and prevents the formed inverted “U” brackets from fully seating in the notches that previously held the plastic side grill. The entire RAI sits approximately ½ to ¾ of an inch too high. The solution was to bend the section of the lower bracket that is located between the formed inverted “U” brackets away from the fender (and toward the plastic RAI assembly) and placing tape on the surface facing the fender. This allows the extra length of the bracket to clear the fender. There is enough depth in the RAI to “hide” the outward flair. A better solution would have been to cut 3/8 inch of material from the section of the lower bracket (between the two inverted “U” brackets).
The instructions did not indicate the center of the 16 mm hole that is drilled through the upper part of the A pillar trim molding.
I guessed that the center of the hole should be at the center of the top locating pin that is cut off. A better method would be to drill a 13mm hole centered on the top locating pin, reinstall the molding, and then shape the hole to accommodate the required spacer using a rotary cutting tool like a Dremmel tool.
Air Inlet Grill
To remove the air inlet grill you need to first lift it straight up and then rotate the lower edge away from the LR3. The easiest way to do this is stand next to the grill with your back to the vehicle. Place your hands behind your back and grasp the grill. Lift upwards and when you feel the lower edge of the grill is free, move away from the vehicle. This sounds like a strange procedure but it does work.
A Pillar Trim
This is a little harder to do without breaking the plastic trim part. It is held in place with a number of push pins. Most likely one or more of these pins will break when you remove the A-pillar trim panel. I suggest you pick up a few spares before you start. In addition, you will use one less pin one the reinstall because you will use the top trim mounting hole to attach a bracket.
Grab both edges of the trim panel at the bottom and pull it away from the A-pillar. At first only lift it out a small amount and move up the pillar a few inches (looking for the next push pin) and pull it out. Work your way to the top then repeat the process pulling it out a little further. (The pins are about ¾ of an inch long.) You want to avoid bending the trim and using it as a lever.
Here are notes from my installation.
The metal bracket that attaches to the lower opening if the RAI was not properly machined. The appearance of this part differs from bracket shown in the installation instructions. Specifically:
• Spacing of the four mounting holes for attaching the bracket to the RAI assembly is not correct. As received from Land Rover, any three of the mounting holes on the bracket would align with the plastic assembly. The solution was to elongate the lower front mounting hole to allow proper alignment.
• The lower edge of the bracket extends too far down. This lower edge rests against the bottom of the fender indent and prevents the formed inverted “U” brackets from fully seating in the notches that previously held the plastic side grill. The entire RAI sits approximately ½ to ¾ of an inch too high. The solution was to bend the section of the lower bracket that is located between the formed inverted “U” brackets away from the fender (and toward the plastic RAI assembly) and placing tape on the surface facing the fender. This allows the extra length of the bracket to clear the fender. There is enough depth in the RAI to “hide” the outward flair. A better solution would have been to cut 3/8 inch of material from the section of the lower bracket (between the two inverted “U” brackets).
The instructions did not indicate the center of the 16 mm hole that is drilled through the upper part of the A pillar trim molding.
I guessed that the center of the hole should be at the center of the top locating pin that is cut off. A better method would be to drill a 13mm hole centered on the top locating pin, reinstall the molding, and then shape the hole to accommodate the required spacer using a rotary cutting tool like a Dremmel tool.
