2010 LR4 Air suspension need advice

[Longtrail]

What parts are you thinking of in particular?

For the compressor I went OE (AMK - bought and shipped from the UK as I believe I mentioned in the post above); for valve seal kits I believe it was Land Rover of Utah (it's posted in the thread above and I know others have had success with this particular kit). Seal kits are not available from Land Rover; only replacement valves so you can't go OE for these. If I were doing springs I'd probably go OE, esp. as mine are original which to me implies they're pretty well made (but also a serviceable component so I expect they'll die one day - they are 13years old)...

What else do you have in mind? I tend to favor OE where possible unless the OEM part has some clear advantage.

 

[jackkyxu]

What parts are you thinking of in particular?

For the compressor I went OE (AMK - bought and shipped from the UK as I believe I mentioned in the post above); for valve seal kits I believe it was Land Rover of Utah (it's posted in the thread above and I know others have had success with this particular kit). Seal kits are not available from Land Rover; only replacement valves so you can't go OE for these. If I were doing springs I'd probably go OE, esp. as mine are original which to me implies they're pretty well made (but also a serviceable component so I expect they'll die one day - they are 13years old)...

What else do you have in mind? I tend to favor OE where possible unless the OEM part has some clear advantage.

I start with front valve block first

now can not decide between original (LR: https://parts.landroverlakebluff.com/oem-parts/ ) and reputable OEM (Lucky8 , Atlantic British, LR Direct)

my concern is that reputable OEM may be all from same Britpart, but some DP on reddit is complaining about its quality

FCPEuro claimed it as VEMO branded

 

[Longtrail]

Why not just service the valve block, you'll save some $$$'s, have familiarity with the workings of the valve and honestly it's not that difficult. It's a pretty simple device so overall the mechanism portion of the valve block is unlikely to deteriorate over time, it's just the o'rings that will flatten and age. I suggest you save some cash while you figure out what's wrong.

If I were buying a new valve I'd go OE; British Atlantic will indicate if the part is OE; I also like FCP Euro... I've also used Lake Bluff. All are good!

 

[jackkyxu]

Why not just service the valve block, you'll save some $$$'s, have familiarity with the workings of the valve and honestly it's not that difficult. It's a pretty simple device so overall the mechanism portion of the valve block is unlikely to deteriorate over time, it's just the o'rings that will flatten and age. I suggest you save some cash while you figure out what's wrong.

If I were buying a new valve I'd go OE; British Atlantic will indicate if the part is OE; I also like FCP Euro... I've also used Lake Bluff. All are good!

I used Lake Bluff and Paramus both.

I picked up from Paramus and talked to the dealer parts person, the one who run the online parts store for these dealers is a separate entity, but dealers DO get parts from them as well.

Lake Bluff 's price is not always the lowest and they charge shipping to me, but they do not charge t$x on me, which saves a lot for high value parts

 

[jackkyxu]

Why not just service the valve block, you'll save some $$$'s, have familiarity with the workings of the valve and honestly it's not that difficult. It's a pretty simple device so overall the mechanism portion of the valve block is unlikely to deteriorate over time, it's just the o'rings that will flatten and age. I suggest you save some cash while you figure out what's wrong.

If I were buying a new valve I'd go OE; British Atlantic will indicate if the part is OE; I also like FCP Euro... I've also used Lake Bluff. All are good!

sorry to bother you again

when I take the valve block off, which place or where should I pay attention to look for the powder from desiccant


Thanks

 

[Rover Range]

sorry to bother you again

when I take the valve block off, which place or where should I pay attention to look for the powder from desiccant


Thanks

White residue will be in the air lines.

 

[Longtrail]

I'd also say it's a pretty subtle white residue, replace the o'rings, use a very small amount of silicon grease on the new ones and generally give the whole block a good blast with an air nozzle and wipe down all the internals.

 

[jackkyxu]

I'd also say it's a pretty subtle white residue, replace the o'rings, use a very small amount of silicon grease on the new ones and generally give the whole block a good blast with an air nozzle and wipe down all the internals.

White residue will be in the air lines.

hi

here is my update

I got the front valve block replaced, I DID NOT find white residue/powder in the air line, and I did air blast to clean

I checked the old valve block, and NEITHER any white residue/powder


I DID the height measurement again over night

this time, the height on front both DID NOT CHANGE ANY single mm at all



my next question is: should I still continue to replace the compressor desiccant?

(I checked the video, the third bolt on compressor is PIA, right? any trick to share?)


thanks

 

[Rover Range]

No need to change the desiccant.
Top mounting bolt: Use a long extension with a swivel 10mm socket.

 

[jackkyxu]

No need to change the desiccant.
Top mounting bolt: Use a long extension with a swivel 10mm socket.

thanks

I will pay extra attention to any excessive compressor working status and report later here