2010 LR4 Air suspension need advice

[jackkyxu]

This concern suddenly came atop in my mind because Trump is putting 25% tariff on imported car parts, and unfortunately the air spring assembly is made by Delphi in EU.....

here is some basic info: 2010 LR4 HSE with air suspension , 70K miles, modest driving condition

Long long ago, the air compressor would start working only when the engine starts, and would not last long before finishing lifting the car

about 1-2 years ago, I felt that air compressor would take a little bit longer to lift the car up, but still only during the engine ignition phase.

During the recent winter, besides the ignition phase, the compressor sometime would start working during driving time, BUT in VERY VERY SHORT duration, and this pumping-while-driving would occur at most ONCE from engine ignition to shutdown.

here is my quesion

1. Is it close to the time that I need to replace the air spring assembly? Considering the tariff, should I buy parts ASAP?

2. is the air compressor good by my description?

3. should I change the air spring and shocker together (AKA buy the air spring assembly)

4. should I change 4?


Thank you

 

[txfromwi]

Can't answer all that, but...

On my 2016, and I have heard this from others as well....
This appears to be a factory build error...
The software in the vehicle is for the Hitachi pump, but the actual installed hardware was the AMK pump.

Suggest that whatever your path, you make sure that the software and hardware match (will require an IID Tool).

I did not see any difference in performance or behaviour when I made the correction - but it seemed the logical thing to do....

I have a video out there on changing the pump, updating the software and re-setting ride height.

Go to YouTube and search on txfromwi, my videos should come up.

 

[jackkyxu]

Can't answer all that, but...

On my 2016, and I have heard this from others as well....
This appears to be a factory build error...
The software in the vehicle is for the Hitachi pump, but the actual installed hardware was the AMK pump.

Suggest that whatever your path, you make sure that the software and hardware match (will require an IID Tool).

I did not see any difference in performance or behaviour when I made the correction - but it seemed the logical thing to do....

I have a video out there on changing the pump, updating the software and re-setting ride height.

Go to YouTube and search on txfromwi, my videos should come up.

excuse for my challenge here

if it is a factory build/software issue, should it be affected from day one instead of gradually getting worse?

 

[ftillier]

Are you lowering the car and then raising it again when you start it, or is it dropping overnight on its own?

 

[jackkyxu]

Are you lowering the car and then raising it again when you start it, or is it dropping overnight on its own?

it is straightly raising up when engine starts

it is dropping a little after engine shutdown and deep dropping if parked extended like more than a week

 

[ftillier]

Ok, you might have a leak then. The suspension compressor has a desiccant cannister that over time turns to dust, the dust passes through the filter, and can contaminate the valve blocks and prevent the valve solenoids from closing properly. You can clean them and that should help restore things, but you will want to check/treat the desiccant problem if so. You can get desiccant rebuild kits, new desiccant cannisters, or just replace the whole compressor. I tried the rebuild kit, but ended up with an air leak at the fittings in the cap. If you rebuild, I recommend getting a new cap so that the o-rings in the fittings seal against the air lines. I settled on a new compressor in the end.

There's posts on here for how to diagnose where your leak is coming from, involving pulling the EAS fuse, taking height measurements, and letting it sit overnight. Knowing which corner(s) are leaking will help guide your investigation.

 

[jackkyxu]

Ok, you might have a leak then. The suspension compressor has a desiccant cannister that over time turns to dust, the dust passes through the filter, and can contaminate the valve blocks and prevent the valve solenoids from closing properly. You can clean them and that should help restore things, but you will want to check/treat the desiccant problem if so. You can get desiccant rebuild kits, new desiccant cannisters, or just replace the whole compressor. I tried the rebuild kit, but ended up with an air leak at the fittings in the cap. If you rebuild, I recommend getting a new cap so that the o-rings in the fittings seal against the air lines. I settled on a new compressor in the end.

There's posts on here for how to diagnose where your leak is coming from, involving pulling the EAS fuse, taking height measurements, and letting it sit overnight. Knowing which corner(s) are leaking will help guide your investigation.

may I ask how do you find the conclusion of leaking from my description? this will help me to sense the abnormality

thank you

here is what I am going to do

Put it in off road height. Leave a door open. Turn the vehicle off. It won’t auto level with a door open. Measure the height of corners. Measure again after overnight. The corner that deflates is the problem

 

[ftillier]

The suspension losing air overnight is a sign of a leak.

You want to pull the fuse for the EAS controller otherwise the system will wake up periodically and can bleed air. So just as you say, once the vehicle is off, with the door open, pop the hood, and pull the suspension fuse. That will make it easier to figure out where your leak is.

 

[jackkyxu]

The suspension losing air overnight is a sign of a leak.

You want to pull the fuse for the EAS controller otherwise the system will wake up periodically and can bleed air. So just as you say, once the vehicle is off, with the door open, pop the hood, and pull the suspension fuse. That will make it easier to figure out where your leak is.

i did not say the height drops over night

the height drops a little bit JUST immediately after engine shutdown, I searched online and found a lot of posts confirming it is normal (correct me if I am wrong here)

I said it would have a deep drop （I guess ACCESS height???） if I parked for a very extended time, such as OVER A WEEK.

I have a question here

IF as you say the system will wake up periodically and can bleed air, why would it sag even there is leaking?




I appreciate your help and I will do another overnight height measurement with EAS fuse off

by the way, is EAS fuse number 3 or 26? I am confused


Thanks



here is height measurement

Time	Left Front	Left Rear	Right Front	Right Rear
5:55PM (EAS fuse on)	34.875	35.5	35	35.5
8:45AM (EAS fuse on)	34.75	35.5	34.875	35.5
8:00PM (EAS fuse off)	34.5	35.125	34.5	35
7:30AM (EAS fuse off)	34.25	35.125	34.25	35

 

[ugmw177]

indicative off a small leak in the front circuit. As per above instructions, pull the EAS fuse and let sit overnight. If both fronts drop, suspect the front block. if one side only drops suspect the strut on that side or possible voss connections. at that point, soapy water on all connections and bag are the route to determining the leak