A thought: if LIN is a serial bus, it might show up as 12V either because it's switching very quickly (if your multimeter has a frequency mode - Hz - it'd be worth attaching it to see what it says), or because there's a pull-up resistor. In either case, pinning it to B+ unfortunately won't give...
I can't be sure, I'm afraid. If it is like other busses in the system, it would need a serial message rather than a passive component like a resistor.
I would think there's some way of disabling the ECO option entirely by updating the right CCF so it wouldn't even look for that module, but from...
I just got mine back from the dealer. I have an odd issue where the steering wheel points off center but the car drives perfectly straight. This seemed to arise after getting an alignment or having the front upper (perhaps lower) control arms replaced. It was fine when I collected it from the...
I spoke with Traxide a couple of years back, and being an Australian company where the start/stop system wasn't delivered, they didn't have much experience with it.
I suspect the LIN line on the diagnostics is the culprit - it's likely a serial bus of some sort.
Do you have a full copy of the...
I really wish that carrier had existed when I bought my Voyager. Loads of jealousy right now!
EDIT: Have you noticed any issues with the blind spot monitoring? My Voyager carrier's pivot point looks to be slightly more outboard and regularly causes the BSM to shut down due to being obscured.
What's most worrying is that they're not able to repair it (either the engine or the damaged loom). What's that going to mean for cars outside of warranty? Replacing entire engines or vehicles is not an option.
I really hope LR change their tune on the TFL incident soon, it's going to be an...
It's not unique to the LR. When I was looking at 2016-18 LC200's, they suffer from equally bad rust underneath from salted roads - on a car that costs $80k+. The valve body for their KDSS is evidently made from cast iron and rusts extremely easily - there are countless threads from owns unable...
No disagreement at all about the LR4 being the last of its breed. I almost pulled the trigger on an almost new LC200, but just couldn't get to the point of liking the thing. The LR4 has orders of magnitude more refinement than the Toyota, and from reading the IH8MUD forums, they're also not...
Long Range America list a tank for the Disco 4/LR4: https://longrangeamerica.com/shop-tanks/
I've been thinking of ordering one. It is listed as a diesel tank, but I imagine it would still work for gasoline.
Thanks for the idea! I was considering a CAN-bus based engine running detector, but they're pretty pricey. I'll just run a wire from the glovebox to the rear of the car.
Does anyone know of an engine running signal in the rear of the LR4? I'm assuming there's one either for the rear A/C or one of the computers back there. I've got a secondary battery and DC/DC converter, and have been using the switched 12V lighter socket back there as the charging trigger - but...
This is who I purchased it from - it was one of the few places that would deliver a battery to the US: https://spareto.com/products/exide-starter-battery/ek151
The only other issue I ran in to was a need to cut a plastic shroud that directed air into the radiator (and away from the adaptive cruise - so it may not be present on yours).
My thoughts:
1. A V8 would be enough. This is a trails or expedition vehicle, not a race car. I'll pick reliability over power every time. The SCV6 lacks low-end torque that would be fixed by a V8. The other major gap is fuel economy for expeditions; I would love a TTV8 diesel if I could have...
I ordered the genuine Exide battery from Europe; ended up being just over $100 landed to the US. Took less than 10 minutes to change, and then a reset with the IID Tool. Saved a bunch compared to going to the dealer!
I've got a FrontRunner ladder and it's been rust free so far, but I do agree that the mounting design isn't not optimal - those nutserts were never designed to take this sort of load.
Those bolts go into nutserts in the rear tailgate handle. They lose their bite in the plastic over time and then spin. I ended up replacing my whole handle recently (and my car is only 2015!).
If you're just planning on mounting a rooftop tent up there, I'd recommend mounting directly to the roof's hard points - you can save a lot of weight up high. I used FrontRunner's vehicle mount rails and some custom brackets to attach my RTT - saved 80 lbs of rack that would never be used.
As...
I bought the Prospeed one; it's well made. I haven't completed the installation yet the top of the winch fouls on the Adaptive Cruise radar on the 2014+ model.
It's a Voyager Racks carrier. It's odd... half of it is well designed and half of it is poorly designed. The good: The pivot is extremely solid with two thrust bearings used in the design which is great. I also love the latch they use - it's a lot more subtle and OEM-feeling than most of the big...
Goose Gear make some of the highest quality drawer systems. They don't yet have a dedicated baseplate for the LR4 (I have heard one is in the works though), but their generic plate fits with only a few minor modifications. Their camp kitchen is an awesome way to hold a stove and fridge.
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