For the piece broken off in the water pump.
Carefully remove the black retaining ring. It just snaps in.
Take a drywall screw and screw it into the broken of piece. Should only take a couple turns, by hand. Then slide out.
Reinstall the locking ring.
Head gaskets, no guarantee.
Used engine, don't know the history on it.
New engine, expensive. But, you won't have to worry about any issues in the future.
There's no requirement to retorque the head bolts after installation.
The head gaskets leak due to not enough head bolts and little material between the cylinders.
IMO. A long block is truly the best long-term fix.
Sorry. I was thinking of a different year model.
Either way, installation of the converter would be the same.
The torque converter sits like the pic shows.
Make sure the flywheel is not on backwards.
Pull the converter out.
Line up the notches in the converter with the two lugs in the transmission.
While supporting the converter as level as possible.
Insert into transmission while gently rotating a couple degrees.
You will hear a solid clunk when the converter seats into the pump.
Torque convertor needs to be further back.
Take a screwdriver and turn the torque convertor, through that hole.
Hopefully the torque convertor will pop into the the transmission front pump.
There's one on the fuel pump, which comes on the new pump.
The other is on a rail that extends to the front of the tank.
It is 100% accessible when the pump is removed. That's how you replace it.
Who are these clowns?
The sender is right there when you remove the pump. It can be a pain. But, it just slides out of the guides and the new one slides back in.
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