The caliper needs to be removed to access the pads.
Before you remove the caliper, the pistons will need to be pushed in.
This is done by prying the pads apart (at the same time) with two screwdrivers.
Remove the pins and the pads will come out.
JLR recommends new rotors.
Remove the T50 torx...
Engine swap? Are they out of their mind?
The cam timing drivetrain need to be replaced. Both VVT sprockets, timing chain, guides and timing chain tensioner.
The loop pieces in the fender are called initiators. There are four, one in each fender well.
They provide auto-location feature to identify tire positions on the vehicle and transmit that data to the CJB.
The initiators turn on the TPMS which then sends an RF signal to the TPMS receiver...
You can go to your local tire shop and see if their TPMS tool can read the sensors. TPMS batteries last around ten years.
Receivers almost never fail. Usually they are ripped off from road debris.
You may be better off taking the seat to an upholstery shop.
The seat bottom cover is held on with "hog rings". They require special pliers to install. There are 15 hog rings.
Getting the cover on nice and tight requires a steam machine too.
Good tips.
Couple things.
Exhaust doesn't have to be removed. Just remove the right motor mount and jack up that side of the engine.
Never use RTV in a transmission.
DTC U3000-63 is set when there is a continued park aid sensor failure.
I'm not sure if your scan tool is pulling up all the DTCs.
Park aid module is located in the left side of the cargo area. Right behind the 2nd row seat. C0958 points to it.
Park aid sensors emit a faint clicking sound. Like a bat's sonar.
Go around the listen to the sensors. The one that doesn't click is defective.
A bad sensor can pull the system down.
A lot of new Rovers don't even have a spare tire or jack. They are looking at weight savings vs convenience.
Plus, it's a liability for someone to change their own tire. :oops:
Spray with LYSOL and wipe the seats off.
Change the cabin filter too. While the filter is out, turn the AC blower on high and spray LYSOL into the blower motor. That will **** the mold in the AC ducts.
The heat from the invertor kept the moisture at bay.
The retaining ring probably got dislodged during shipping.
When the boot dropped down, it got caught against the ball joint. Tearing it.
Should be a parts warranty repair.
I've only seen two rear main seals that were bad.
Both vehicles had this weird groaning noise.
There was actually a vacuum leak through the rear main seal into the torque convertor cavity. I could feel engine vacuum at the transmission bell housing weep hole.
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