Project Dark Knight Rising

Ok, here's where the relay goes in the CJB:



Here's the back, so you can see what wire goes where:



Finally, here's the ground point. I used the top one as it was sitting there empty, but in theory you could use either.



After all the wiring was finished, I turned my attention to the PCM. I tried to reflash the PCM I had started with, but it didn't work. The software wouldn't load and the PCM was toast. Thankfully, I had a spare laying around that I could play with. This time I didn't let the SDD tool flash the software, just flash the security info and configuration file from the BCM. And voila! She cranked... I'll post a video walking everyone through the PCM programming process a little later. The PCM I have in there now, I had split apart to see if I could externally update the VIN and security information with a EEPROM programmer, much like I do with the Instrument cluster. In case you were wondering, I couldn't do it. Although there are some new programmers out there I may try later...if I ever have money again. The moral of the story is that I want a nice sealed PCM in the car. We all know the split one will eventually die as water will get inside. So, when I swap them out, I make a video and post it so you can see how it's done with the SDD tool.

Aside from that, there's only one thing left to post today....and that's "VICTORY!!"


Fist start....hells yeah!! Now I just need to get the cooling fan, PCM, and air cleaner system back on....along with the bumpers and about 100 other little things!!!

Congrats on the excellent progress!

Ok folks, so today was a bit of a disappointment. First, the good news:

-I finally got the new fan installed...took may too long to get everything together.
-I topped off the power steering reservoir. Yay.
-I programmed the new (used) PCM to the vehicle. (and filmed it)...remember, In had split the one on there inhale and was worried about condensation damaging the PCM over time.

The bad news:

-The "performance" intake I ordered was the wrong one. Aka, the company sent me the 2014-2016 RRS version and I needed the 2010-2013 version. Luckily, the company seems to be pretty cool and they've got another one headed my way. But, I won't have any MAF sensors or the vacuum lines hooked up until then...and we'll see what it looks like when/if the new one gets here.

-I found one of the wires on the right bank exhaust VVT solenoid had broken off. All my spare engine harness parts are in storage, so now I have to find a pigtail somewhere. or I guess I could get a new solenoid and upgrade to the new style connector. (Had to swap the intake solenoids on my 2010 and found out half way through the swap). Either way a pain in the rear, and potentially costly.



--Worst of all, when the engine fired over, it struggled to start and smoked A LOT. It didn't do that when I started it 2 weeks ago, and I cranked it up 3 or 4 times two weeks ago. Now I'm terrified the cold weather cracked something internally. (no, I have NO idea how as the coolant is rated to -34 degrees F!!). Time will tell I suppose. But to say I feel very defeated today would be an understatement....I've never seen an engine smoke that, "just needed a wire connected." I'm REALLY hoping the missing temp sensor (I believe it's in bumper that I have yet to put back on) the missing MAF sensors coupled with really old gas, the broke exhaust VVT solenoid wire and the breather tube and SC vacuum line disconnected is what's causing it to run like crap. Although, that's a whole lotta wishing...and my gut is telling me this is not good. I just don't know what's different. Looks like tomorrow in borescope day!

Regardless, here's the PCM programming video that I said I'd make. At least if anyone else wants to attempt this, they can see how to get the new PCM gained into the system.

Really? I don’t think its so dire….
Smoke as in vehicle running very rich and without MAFs, ecm is unable to correctly regulate the air on the cold engine??

I for one, am a big fan of all you’re doing. Keep up the good work!

itsaguything said:

Really? I don’t think its so dire….
Smoke as in vehicle running very rich and without MAFs, ecm is unable to correctly regulate the air on the cold engine??

I for one, am a big fan of all you’re doing. Keep up the good work!

Click to expand...

No, this was heavy smoke and it ran like crap and now it won't restart. (It'll crank, but won't catch.). It ran smooth as silk without the MAF's, vacuum hose, OAT sensor and cooling fan connected a week and a half ago. (I cranked it and shut it down 3 times after the "first start" video) Clearly something has happened, and with all the smoke that came out, it really looks like something cracked internally in the cold temps. I've never seen Zerex 50/50 coolant freeze, but that doesn't mean it won't. Or maybe I just eff'd something up on install.

I'm gonna pull the plugs today and at least take a look inside with my borescope. Then if I have time, compression check the system.

I did have one thought as I was up at 4:30 this morning; I wonder if the SC intercooler has a crack and is dropping coolant directly into the intake. I may try and pressure check the SC intercoolers on top of the engine...just need to get the parts to do it. The sad part is that this would be the "best" scenario. SMH

I'll let y'all know what I find...I still just can't believe it... Soooo close.

Fingers crossed for you.

Oh, dude! You have my sincere sympathy. There’s hardly a worse feeling than being so close to success only to have a monkey wrench thrown into it. Here’s hoping it is something simple! Hang in there.

Soooo.... it looks like it nothing too major....ish.

Here's what I know:

- All the cylinder are clean and pretty and have NO SIGNS of coolant in them.
- My cooling system failed its pressure test because the flipping plastic side cap on the radiator is leaking.
- It does not appear as though the SC Intercooler radiators are leaking into the intake.
- Cylinder Pressures: Taken at 33 degrees F outside air temp.
1. 96 psi
2. 79 psi
3. 100 psi
4. 82 psi
5. 103 psi
6. 75 psi
7. 103 psi
8. 85 psi

Broken down by bank:
Right Bank
1. 96 psi
3. 100 psi
5. 103 psi
7. 103 psi
Left Bank
2. 79 psi
4. 82 psi
6. 75 psi
8. 85 psi

So, here's my theory, and if anyone has any better info, PLEASE feel free to share. I'm battling a couple issues. First off, the gas is really flipping old. Secondly, the stupid radiator is leaking and needs to be replaced. Third, I need to ensure the MAF sensor and PCV Vacuum lines are connected when running the engine. (May need a new OAT sensor...or possibly just a rewire). Fourth, I need to fix the wire for the Right Bank exhaust VVT solenoid. And FINALLY, given the fact that the Left bank pressures were consistently 20-25 psi less than the left bank, I feel like the timing chain slipped a tooth. I'm not sure in which direction, but either the intake is closing early or the exhaust is opening too soon and compression is suffering. When you put everything together I think you'll get what I got. I just know there was a lot of smoke, but that could have been steam from the exhaust, and really old nasty gas burning, along with some of the assembly lube....

All I know is that if the block or heads were cracked, I would see it in the compression numbers. FYI, I know these values are low, as compared to the NA engine. but the compression ratio for the SC engine is only 9:1 vs the NA engine at 14:1.

I'll be back at it next weekend! Yay....I get to take the front of the engine apart again. I can't wait.

Feel free to offer thoughts and advice. I'm always open to suggestions!

Well folks....it's been a rough weekend.

Turns out, I didn't screw up and nothing broke, and the timing is dead on. Then I went and checked the cylinders again and noticed a lot of oil pooled up around the head gasket, and potentially some coolant in one cylinder. (Although there's a chance that just fell in when I pulled the spark plug out as I think I spilled some coolant while taking all the hoses off.) Leading me to the conclusion the head gasket failed after 15 seconds of run time.

So, since the timing was on point, there's only 3 causal factors I can think of....and none of them are good:

1. Cracked head - In theory, my machinist tested it after he machined it...at least he told me he did.
2. Warped block deck - Also in theory, my machinist checked the deck when he machined the block. At the time he told me it wasn't out of specs.
3. Failed head gasket - Maybe there was just something wrong with this gasket and it never sealed?

Soooo....to say I'm questioning some of my life decisions right now would be an understatement. I was really hoping to have this sucker back on the road by now, or maybe within the next couple of weeks. Instead, I've got it torn down to the point I can take the heads back off, and I'm basically back at square one. Out of time, out of money, and rapidly running out of will power to keep going.

I was really hoping I had simply mis-measure the steel block insert depth and my head studs were just a little too long....but nope, they were dead on with plenty of thread left.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point...but I definitely feel like I should change the title of this thread to Dark Knight Failing.

I’m sorry to hear. Stiff upper lip. Get the block head and heads checked. With you there.