OE Sliders

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

craiglud

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Posts
74
Reaction score
3
nwoods,

I use the RS stage 3 sliders and wheel mostly in rock in Arizona, etc. I have found that your comments are correct about the standoff tubes getting in the way when sliding over some rocks. I have also felt that the standoff tubes affect some the the clearance when trying to fit through rocks.

However, when I look out the window and see that rock held away from my door panel by that tube I start to like the tube more :biggrin:. In fact sometimes the tube has kept me far enough away from larger rocks and protected my doors.

I'd like to see the low profile option in action sometime!
 

nwoods

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2006
Posts
1,675
Reaction score
24
Craiglug, those standoff's definitely have their Pro's and Con's:

Pro:
134696344_R897R-L.jpg


Con:
117328685_xEKGt-L-1.jpg
 

nwoods

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2006
Posts
1,675
Reaction score
24
NWoods . . . looking at those pics, where on those baby's plates are the actual frame mount

Basically, everything inboard of the tall pylon mounts is where the sliders cover the frame. The "batwing" shape of the plate is the contour of the inside face of the frame tube. The sliders don't physically attach to the frame itself (although my first pair prototypes did). Simply having the stiff plate in contact with the frame prevents any sort of overtuning force that would result in a cantilever load situation, such as my photo above with me stuck in this pinch-rock scenario:

211888256_QtWPs-L.jpg
 

davidfkon

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Posts
553
Reaction score
4
"Basically, everything inboard of the tall pylon mounts is where the sliders cover the frame. The "batwing" shape of the plate is the contour of the inside face of the frame tube. The sliders don't physically attach to the frame itself (although my first pair prototypes did). Simply having the stiff plate in contact with the frame prevents any sort of overtuning force that would result in a cantilever load situation, such as my photo above with me stuck in this pinch-rock scenario:"

Makes perfect sense . . the stiff plate presses against the frame but is not bolted to it . . . so . . . where DO they bolt? On the body like other sliders?
Is it possible to remove the section that interferes with the compressor cover? (ie: cut it out)

Hope this isn't a stupid question - I know you REALLY know what's going on under there . . .
 
Last edited:

nwoods

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2006
Posts
1,675
Reaction score
24
"so . . . where DO they bolt? On the body like other sliders?

The main mount is the two pylon mounts that are where the LR3 body is mounted to the frame. There are additional mounts that take advantage of the tackwelded nutserts in the door sill as well. I don't have a good photo of that, but you can see something similar in this photo below. The red urethane disk is the vibration isolator between the body and the frame tab that holds the body to the chassis. There are 8 (or 12, I can't remember!) of them total. The RS sliders mount to two on each side as primary anchorage.

springs_01-700.gif


Sliders-Stage1-06.gif


Sliders-Stage1-07.gif


Is it possible to remove the section that interferes with the compressor cover? (ie: cut it out)

Sure, just take a cut-off wheel to it, then rattle-can it with primer and Rustoluem and you are good to go....anywhere where there aren't any sharp rocks or sticks :)
 

davidfkon

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Posts
553
Reaction score
4
who did the mounting?
so, sorry to beat a dead hourse . . . thy pylons mount to the frame? The rest are door sill mounts?
 

nwoods

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2006
Posts
1,675
Reaction score
24
who did the mounting?
so, sorry to beat a dead hourse . . . thy pylons mount to the frame? The rest are door sill mounts?

1. You can do it yourself, all it takes is a cheap rolling floor jack and a block of wood. In my case, I am friends with the local Rover repair shop, so we used his lift.

2. Right.
 

davidfkon

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Posts
553
Reaction score
4
so it IS possible to get (fairly) good coverage and not remove the compressor cover?
 

Neild

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2009
Posts
160
Reaction score
0
Guys,

Our sliders with the bar were designed for off roaders who need/like side steps. Alot of us off road with families / social and not very extreme, but extreme enough. These are not really an alternate to the chassis mount type.

We have new products being designed later this month.

In fact we have tried numerous times to contact off roving to get a uk License to make their product in the UK - to import them it waaaay to much money (£2500++)

Neil
 

morrisdl

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Posts
717
Reaction score
38
so it IS possible to get (fairly) good coverage and not remove the compressor cover?

I think you missed the scarcasm - cut a hole in the slider for the compressor cover and there is no more compressor protection than you have today (a thin plastic and foam cover). If you are off road, that compressor is critical for your return trip. I have thought about putting a t-fitting on it, so I could use my tire compressor as a backup.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
36,702
Posts
222,595
Members
30,876
Latest member
Ejp1989
Top