2015 V6 coolant pipes done. Pics of old pipes

[jjvd21]

Replaced at 52,000 miles in my 2016 the pipe ends were crumbled.

 

[txfromwi]

I am currently doing the crossover pipes and water pump in the 2013 at 89K. Pipes look fine, but we shall see what happens when they are removed- I have a small leak at the water pump due to a failed gasket. I am recording as I go, its going to be a rather long video as i am being detailed in the discussion, i will decide later if I really want to post it. Biggest issue is that current online videos are incomplete and its alot of discover as you go, which is very slow. Minor amount of new tools to purchase- now that I figured it out. I keep running into new issues that require additional parts and tools and work. And everything adds days. IF you had all the parts and tools and knew the tricks, i would personally schedule 4 days, but i work slowly. Wizards could likely do it in 2 days. If you can do brakes and if you have ever replaced fuel injectors you can do this. But lots of steps….and because access is tight and challenging its physically demanding due to the body positions…

 

[Davidinseattle]

I am currently doing the crossover pipes and water pump in the 2013 at 89K. Pipes look fine, but we shall see what happens when they are removed- I have a small leak at the water pump due to a failed gasket. I am recording as I go, its going to be a rather long video as i am being detailed in the discussion, i will decide later if I really want to post it. Biggest issue is that current online videos are incomplete and its alot of discover as you go, which is very slow. Minor amount of new tools to purchase- now that I figured it out. I keep running into new issues that require additional parts and tools and work. And everything adds days. IF you had all the parts and tools and knew the tricks, i would personally schedule 4 days, but i work slowly. Wizards could likely do it in 2 days. If you can do brakes and if you have ever replaced fuel injectors you can do this. But lots of steps….and because access is tight and challenging its physically demanding due to the body positions…

might want to think about that 2016 as well based on my experience.

ps. I like that you can list every car you've had. IF I listed every car I had, my signature line would be two feet long. I can't even remember half of them. Between my mid 20's and mid 30s, I got new car every six months. People thought I was a drug dealer. LOL

 

[ryanjl]

For what it's worth, I had my rear pipe replaced at 105k miles this last Spring. First time it was replaced. Nothing wrong with the old one; just preventative maintenance. When I asked my mechanic what the old one looked like, shop told me it "looked like a plastic coolant pipe with around 100k miles on it." In other words, it hadn't failed yet, but just looked like it had some miles on it.

My front was replaced in May 2017 under warranty at my dealership at 58k miles. Replaced because it had a slow leak. I had it replaced again at 105k miles the same time as I had my rear replaced a few months ago. Front was still fine (shop told me it looked great), but there's so much duplicative work when already doing the rear crossover that I just went ahead and had them both done (plus the water pump, thermostat, and some other stuff).

(On a tangent, I love that I've put my entire maintenance history into a Google doc. Makes accessing everything so damn easy.)

 

[Mozambique]

That’s a great piece of mind, I’ve known people who lost their (V8) engines to this issue.

My 2014 V6 here in Colorado is at about 65,000 miles. My local independent said he “looked” at it and it looks ok for now, but I’m not sure I want to trust it much longer.

Do the normally leak a little bit before they blow?

Is this a job for a home mechanic or are there too many steps and specialty tools?

I’ve done rotors and brakes and recently the vacuum cap that made it rev like crazy on every start… that was a bugger to get to.

My locals want over $2k for the job and I think it’s best to add the water pump at the same time?

What advice would you all give?

-Paul

Did the front and rear crappy plastic pipes on my 2010 V8 at 90k miles. The front crossover and maybe the water pump too showed a small leak over 18 months. It was pooling on the vacuum pump and clearly visible on skid plate upper surface. Overall a straightforward job, if a little fiddly accessing bolts on the rear manifold pipe. Just be OCD in not dropping anything down inlet ports when the manifold cover is off and make sure you follow the correct bleeding procedure after everything is back together. I am an average mechanic. Probably took me 6hrs in total on my driveway.

 

[Pfunk951]

102k on the clock when I did mine.. Both ports on mine crumbled on removal, but weren't leaking when I started the repair. In the end I'm glad I did it, and will do it in another 60k- I'm not letting an easily replaceable plastic pipe smoke this motor..! The rear was in fine shape, I'll do that one again at 220k.

 

[Quijote]

well, they were definitely crumbling. The tech put the pieces that fell off in the box with the parts. Our LR4 has 54,000 on it. So parts were in state of decay at what i would consider low mileage. That said, it is six years old.

Yikes. I was going to do all that cooling system work this fall but ran out of time and was planning on doing it this spring at 8.5 years and ~50k miles. I thought I would be way early. Perhaps not! No signs of leaks, though.

 

[mm3846]

Yikes. I was going to do all that cooling system work this fall but ran out of time and was planning on doing it this spring at 8.5 years and ~50k miles. I thought I would be way early. Perhaps not! No signs of leaks, though.

eh, you'll be fine. those parts are more than likely fine until you pull em out because of the small amount of corrosion that gunks up holding the plastic pieces in place, then you find the weak points and they crumble out. I'm about to turn 60k and I'm not worried. My buddy's 13 is at 80k on original hoses. the LR tech I spoke with about it said they never blow without warning, people just ignore smells and leaks for a while. once it warms up in late spring I'll probably end up doing mine though, since I plan on doing some trips this summer.

 

[txfromwi]

I am working through mine - at 90K on a 2013, V8.

Both crossover pipes are good, water pump is good, but all are being replaced because it's a grand case of you might as well. I had a small seep from the gasket connecting the water pump to the tube that goes to the oil cooler. That gasket has a new design and it should be much more robust.

I am making a video and I will post it, but it's going to be painfully long to watch because I am showing all the tricks I am learning and explaining the challenging bits - and there are some challenging bits! I am discussing special tools, how exactly to get that electrical connector off when you can't see it, what size Torx and sockets to use and the specified torque settings, how to access the tight locations, the part numbers, what's in the box when those parts arrive, how to vaccuum fill the system when complete, what NOT to do, & etc. I will post in a separate thread so hopefully it's searchable.

Some here have stated that they have completed the job in 6 hours - I work slowly, but not at a snails pace and I cannot see how that kind of speed is possible - but if you can do it, good for you!
I am not finished with the job yet, but at this point I am predicting about 20-24 hours wrench time (which includes making the raw video). I need to do this on our 2016 V6 in the spring, with this experience on the 2013 V8, I will reserve 3 days for that one.

 

[ktm525]

This is a great simple guide for the V8.

Land Rover LR4 5.0 water pump replacement DIY - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

LR4 - Land Rover LR4 5.0 water pump replacement DIY - Tools 7mm socket (or flat screwdriver) for hose clamps Hose pick Hose clamp pliers Bent nose pliers Long ⅜ ratchet to release tension on belt tensioner 15mm socket with long ratchet to remove belt tensioner T30 torx for water pump bolts 36mm...

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