Avslash's Sleeping Platform - A Few More Pics Added

[Troy A]

Between the modularity, and the access to the beer and the chosen self-defense tools, this is a spectacularly well thought out design.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mrezo]

Great layout @avslash. Very well done!

I've been interested in building a sleeping and storage platform. I initially was thinking of taking cues from the Nestbox and started sketching out plans to build something similar. However, I love the thoughtfulness and simplicity in your design. I'll certainly be re-reading your post to get some ideas.

Also, what size fridge did you mount in the center? Any specific mounting hardware needed?

 

[avslash]

Great layout @avslash. Very well done!

I've been interested in building a sleeping and storage platform. I initially was thinking of taking cues from the Nestbox and started sketching out plans to build something similar. However, I love the thoughtfulness and simplicity in your design. I'll certainly be re-reading your post to get some ideas.

Also, what size fridge did you mount in the center? Any specific mounting hardware needed?

It is the ARB 50L, IIRC. Mounting was no issued. I bought the ARB tie-down kit and secured it through the seat mounting bolts. No issues at all.

You will need to wire to a power source that doesn't deactivate when the truck goes to sleep, though.

 

[Gov na]

I would be very interested in having this in my 007 LR3 Rover, "Gov'na". Are you able to provide the info?

 

[avslash]

I would be very interested in having this in my 007 LR3 Rover, "Gov'na". Are you able to provide the info?

Look here. PerkJ's revised design is exactly what I used for the rear platform.

https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...dated-actual-dimensions-on-pg-4.127843/page-4

Look here for the tubing.

https://eztube.com/product/100-100-square-aluminum-tube/

Look here for the connectors. You want the steel core ones, IMO, for strength. Also, I recommend staying away from the quick connect ones. They don't lock up tightly enough for this use case, IMO, and I have a few laying around now to show for it.

https://eztube.com/product-category/connectors/

Look here for the feet for the front portion.

https://eztube.com/product-category/accessories/adjustable-feet/

Look here for the T-nuts used.

https://www.amazon.com/SNUG-Fastene...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Look here for the connector bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=1/4-20+connector+bolt&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

Look here for the carpet.

https://www.miamicorp.com/products/CARPET @@2f FLOORING/MARINE CARPET/AQUA-TURF @@2f SYNTEC.aspx

You WILL need a table saw for the plywood, and also a miter/chop saw for the tubing.

I will try and post my dimensions of the front portion of the platform, but it will be a week or so. About to head out to ski for a week.

I also think there might be enough variation in these installations that are bound by plastic and carpet to say that my dimensions should only be used as a ballpark guide, as well.

 

[TrinidadLR4]

This is fantastic. Thank you for sharing!

 

[avslash]

Well, I just realized I forgot one of the more important aspects to mention.

The rear load floor of these trucks is not level relative to the rest of the interior. It has a slight downward slope of about 1" from the forwardmost point of the cargo area to tailgate.

If you want your platform to sit level relative to the interior, you will need to shim the rear of the platform to account for this.

It is easiest to see where I have circled in red. Without the shims (which I have also circled) the platform will not sit level relative to the cut-outs in the cargo area side trim panels that allow the upper platform to slide forward and back.

I used hard plastic shims thus far, but I am in the process of getting some custom hardwood shims made that will allow the lower frame of the platform to bear on the shim along the entirety of its length. I have bounced around on this thing as it is, and it functions fine with the plastic shims, but I am looking to do it in what I consider a more correct manner.

Alternatively, if the look of platform not being level relative to the cargo area side trim doesn't bother you, you could account for the downward slope of the cargo area through the adjustable feet on the forward platform and still end up with a flat sleeping surface that is also at a slight downward angle.

Sorry for the oversight on my part. Now you know...

 

[Gov na]

A few rambling thoughts on it, now that I have a minute or two.

I too looked at all the off-the-shelf options I could find. Frontrunner, Drifta, etc. I was turned off by the fact they all seemed heavy as hell (125 pounds or more) and the fact that you are essentially married to the thing once you put it in there.

When I saw PorkJ's work at Expo a few years ago, I thought he was on to something good and the idea was percolating in the back of my head for quite a while.

Materials used:
EZ-Tube aluminum tubing, steel core connecters and adjustable feet (this stuff is fabulous, not sure how I lived without it before)
1/2" Birch plywood for the platforms
3/4" Birch plywood for the slider board
Aqua-Turf waterproof boat carpet (this stuff is a spot-on match for the factory almond carpet)
Furniture Connector Bolts (these have a flat head and snug right up against the tubing frame)
T-Nuts - These dig into the wood and provide a flush finish
Riv-Nuts - For when you need a threaded insert into the tubing frame - see the legs nearest the fridge
Sealing primer for all the plywood

My design criteria were:
Easily removable (I can get all of this out in about 3 minutes)
Retain second row of seats
Access to fridge in all configurations
Look somewhat factory
No permanent mods to the truck (third row seat could go right back in)
Strong, Stable and rattle free
Retain the ability to fold the second row and pass long items like ski's through from the back


What I would Differently:

I would do the whole thing in the unpainted aluminum. The black sounded like a good idea at the time, but it shows every little nick and scratch. Enough so, that at some point I might disassemble the whole thing and have all of the legs sprayed in something durable like truck bed liner.

Make the flip open panel 1" wider on each side. What I did works, but widening it by an inch would allow the support leg to rest squarely on the folded second row seats. I was tying to maximize space available under the platform so I came up with the "washer" method that you can see in a couple of the pics. It works, but I'm not sure the extra hassle was worth the extra inch of space under there.

Take the flip panel to a cabinet shop and have them route/mortis or whatever they do to install a set of hidden/flush hinges. I used piano hinge, and while it works you can definitely see the ridge of it under the carpeting. Doing this would also allow the flip panel and it's neighboring panel to be upholstered completely separately so you wouldn't end up with a wrinkle of carpet when the panel is flipped open.

Possible Future Mods:
Add anchoring for secure travel with the front platform in place. Several ways this could be done, but I haven't experimented yet because I don't see myself really travelling that way.

Add anchor points for securing cargo. Never hurts to have all that stuff strapped down securely

Latch mechanism for the flip panel. Gravity does the job now, but a nice secure "click" would be a nice touch.

 

[Gov na]

send me the plans, I'd like to do this to mine.

 

[morrisdl]

Amazing work! I am definitely going to copy. Do you have an estimated total budget?
I would love an shopping list on feet of tubing, connectors, carpet, etc if you have the order confirmations handy.