scott schmerge
Full Access Member
that’s to have my independent do the valve cover replacement and gaskets. Felt reasonable to me for a Land Rover oem and labor...no?
Engine revs high upon start up
- Thread starter David Shimmel
- Start date
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Ah. I thought that was just parts.
scott schmerge
Full Access Member
Silver lining #2. Timing chains checked by tech once the valve cover was off (at 120k on the clock) and all tight...
I really need to get with you on scheduling for my Rover to spend a week with you....Just let me know what works on your end. You offer a loaner car don't you?
Sorry, late reply. I'm into older vehicles like the 95 D1 (OBD1), I can work on and play with without stealership assistance. Able to read fault codes, repair and reset to blank. Only fault I get once or twice a year is a 048 "stepper motor idle too low". My fault with setup having a low cold start idle forgetting leaving the AC one. Only a 20 second fault code clear.
Not a clue or interest in newer LR's especially after the adventure helping a friend with replacing 5.0 heads we got dirt cheap frfom Pick-n-Pull. No thanks the old push rod motors are simple, fun, easy to work on and can run 2-300K trouble free miles. No timing chain or coolant failures.
I see you have a collection of vehicles. At this end 54 VW w/56 Speedster engine, trans and the big aluminum brakes. A 56 Mercedes 300c the big sedan, 69 912 Porsche (wifey's car). 68 F250 Camper Special w/454, 427 FE block w/428 crank, 427 medium riser heads, it runs strong a fun sleeper. All Ford no chubbies at this household. A 81 DMC in storage 314 original miles original owner. Nobody including the wifey drives my vehicles, no loaners available. The trick is playing and adding performance but still passing smog checks. Best reward is having the D1 running my way now a more flexible engine than factory ever dreamed of producing, talking 87 to 95 D1's and not that sad 3.9 gutless engine either......~~=o&o>.....
Sounds like a combination of high (normal smog equipped) under hood temps with the addition of age (heat cycles) on possibly (I believe) inferior design along with cheap plastic (LR bean counter) approved parts. Customer pays the price which rather sucks considering your hard earned cash spent on an already expensive vehicle not some cheap $13,000 out the door Hugo. Sorry Hugo owners just a reference not knowing their cost.
Extreme example, trusting you life way out in the bush driving your time bomb not knowing if or when when a mechanical failure will happen? How many LR3's and 4's are out a hundred miles or more deep into nowhere roaming around the heart of South Africa and not just a couple miles from any LR or independent repair facility? Not to start a model LR ******* war JMO about modern day overly complicated vehicles. You would think LR spending a little more money on higher quality parts like eliminating plastic with aluminum parts as well making parts more robust and having a much higher dependable vehicles. If so sales would increase a win win. Being made in India can't be that expensive of labor?....~~=o&o>......
avslash
Full Access Member
Well your post did start me pondering running a pre-oiler, bypass oil filter, and adding a catch can on the intake side.
Agreed on the cheap parts. It's thought provoking on how robust some elements of these vehicles are and how dollar store cheap some elements are.
Timing chains don't keep me up at night. They provide some warning before they check out. If I was driving out of the country though, I would most definitely have a pair of spare crossover pipes in my kit.
It would suck to change them in the field, but it could be done.
gsxr
Full Access Member
Back to the OP... I remembered to pay attention to revs on startup today. Initially pops to ~2000rpm, but drops to 1400rpm within a couple of seconds and remains at 1400 for a while, then eventually settles down to a normal idle.
I don't let it warm up in Park, it gets started and driven with a light foot until the temp gauge starts moving off the bottom of the gauge. Extended idling after a cold start is not good for engines.
I don't let it warm up in Park, it gets started and driven with a light foot until the temp gauge starts moving off the bottom of the gauge. Extended idling after a cold start is not good for engines.
Not a LR but an example how not to treat engines. The wifey's 2010 Ford Escape 3.0 V6, at cold start 1,400 rpm's in neutral. Once started, counting off 3 seconds for the automatic's torque converter as well internal shift passageways first hydraulically filled, foot on brake allowing unlocking shifter into Drive. It's a soft shift no high rpm hammering into gear event. Cold idle pulled down to app 850 rpm's letting it idle with emergency brake on holding the vehicle, foot brake optional. By 30 to 40 seconds the idle has dropped to 800 rpm's in Drive. Release E brake and light throttle off lightly loading the engine at 1,200 rpm's until nearing normal operating temp. These V6's come up to normal temp way faster than the 95 4.6 LR which already heats up rather quickly. Sweet engine at 153K miles not using oil between 4K changes plus the color is almost as light as fresh oil nearing change time. Same year, exact model and engine a lifetime friend purchased her Escape a week later same dealership. She drives lead footed right from the cold start of 82K miles. It consumed oil starting at 3K miles to present, turns oil dark dark brown within 500 miles after an oil change. Both these Escapes filled with MotorCraft's Blended oil, half synthetic half petroleum (dyno) based oil. I service both these Escapes from new. I live in a mild temp area not single digit wintertime locations where cold start wear is way more aggressive. The Pre-Oiler addition made a big difference in cold starts now pressurized oiling system before cranking as the LR engine was screaming for help, more like rattling rods before oil pressure is finally developed in the past. Cured that rattling rods issue first startup 11 to 13 seconds daily with the new 4.6 install plus Pre-Oiler. Old 3.9 at 62K all rod bearings into the brass backings, babbitt layer worn off contributed from having long cold dry starts.
Respect machinery it will treat you in return......~~=o&o>.....
Respect machinery it will treat you in return......~~=o&o>.....
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scott schmerge
Full Access Member
Alright folks! So here’s a stumper. Had the passenger side valve cover replaced and picked up the truck last week. It was running great. Then proceeded to get a p2118-19 code. Restricted performance and the works. Dirty throttle body.
Assumed it was due to running lean for about 100 miles before I could get it in for service. Cleaned throttle body and code disappears. Then two days later, get a map sensor code (no throttle body code). Clear that, clean tb again, assuming I didn’t do a sufficient job the first time. Notice some oil buildup on the inside of the throttle body. Clean it again. Runs well.
A day later same thing...open up, oil again on inside of the tb. clean and run it- all runs smoothly.
I’ve got an email out to my independent, but at this point, I’m suspecting the repair was not done correctly.
Anyone on here know what could be the cause? I know for emissions, the oil vapors get fed back into the intake- just a bit confused as to what could be a possible cause?
Assumed it was due to running lean for about 100 miles before I could get it in for service. Cleaned throttle body and code disappears. Then two days later, get a map sensor code (no throttle body code). Clear that, clean tb again, assuming I didn’t do a sufficient job the first time. Notice some oil buildup on the inside of the throttle body. Clean it again. Runs well.
A day later same thing...open up, oil again on inside of the tb. clean and run it- all runs smoothly.
I’ve got an email out to my independent, but at this point, I’m suspecting the repair was not done correctly.
Anyone on here know what could be the cause? I know for emissions, the oil vapors get fed back into the intake- just a bit confused as to what could be a possible cause?
How can you trust cheap plastic parts which become brittle from heat and age when your out in the bush? Less plastic the better like aluminum valve covers, intake manifold no plastic cross overs. This includes plastic tanked radiators, custom oversize 100% brass radiator and burp plug no plastic now in the D1.
If adding a Pre-Oiler DO NOT install it into your engine's main oil galley as you will be entering oil from the accumulator which is 1/2 filled when serviced doing oil changes.
Best to have the oil from the charged accumulator or Pre-Oiler sent through the oil filer first like all the engine's oil after it has been picked up by the oil pump hence only filtered oil ever entering into the engine's oil passages. Pressurized oil within the engine before cranking even after an overnight oil drain then installing a empty oil filter. It will take longer due to the accumulator first filling up the empty oil filter then the engine's oil passages before pressure is established, around 23 seconds as example just after an oil change, 7" long filter holds 33 1/2 ounces once filled. Cold morning starts depending on the air temps there after between 14 to 18 seconds before establishing oil pressure. A simple system for the wife to drive, mini NO switch by the steering column in the "future switch blank off" cover which also has a single green / red LED. Ignition on the green LED is on, tap the mini switch plunger starts the oiling system. The LED has turned to red. Once the low oil pressure fuel shut off safety switch has been activated a second cube relay is now activated which energizes an adjustable electronic time delay timer which is set for app 8 seconds after establishing 38 psi oil pressure. This added run time pushing oil out of the bearings coating the crank and rods are now all dripping with oil. Once the oiling cycle has ended the LED returns to green from red letting the wife to know it's crank the engine time. Rockers, push rods also lubed. This dripping oil at startup will sling oil off the crank lubing the cylinder walls plus cam lobes. After experiencing the LR engine from day one having rattling rods every morning from dry starts plus checking all the rod bearings seeing them down into the brass layer on the bearing inserts, babbitt missing on all the upper bearing top inserts I had to make an improvement to the oiling system. Purchased a 3 quart system from MasterLube back in 1-2000 right after taking ownership of a 95 D1 of 62K miles, damage already done from daily cold dry starts. Schitt canned the 3.9. extended warranty paid for a 4.6 short block. One of these Pre-Oiler sytems which are not cheap (app $185 back in 2000), now cost must be much higher but what's your engine worth? http://masterlube.net/home.htm. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/ml3qs.html--($354)....~~=o&o>......
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