jlach993
Full Access Member
Nice truck Ed!
Things to look for on a high mileage LR4
- Thread starter Ed Rustioni
- Start date
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cperez
Full Access Member
Congrats!! Enjoy it and here's to many miles of hassle-free Rovering.
Ed Rustioni
Member
Ended up paying $22,000 for it.
Although, I discovered over the weekend that there is a tiny amount of oil dripping from somewhere. I checked the oil level several times on Friday/Saturday about 20 minutes after driving it and the oil level was constant at Max on the read out.
I checked it again first thing this morning after it had been in the garage all night and the read out said that it had been overfilled.
I am taking it into the shop today to try and figure out what is going on with it.
gsxr
Full Access Member
In my experience.... the electronic level display is pretty useless. It seems to only show Min, Max, or halfway between those two. The FSM oil change procedure includes a process that appears to set the display to show "Max", assuming that you poured in the correct amount of oil. It then uses this level as a reference. If it works how I think it does, it's a really lame setup. Really wish there was a manual dipstick option. If the display says it's overfilled, there's no way to know for sure without draining & refilling, because you don't know how much oil was in the sump the last time the sensor was "calibrated".
For the leak, if it's coming from the front passenger corner of the engine, look at the vacuum pump area below the alternator. There was a recent thread discussing this. My engine has a leak here, I'm going to replace the pump seal when I change the oil in the next couple of weeks.
Side note: There's a lot of drama & discussion on what oil to use, and what change interval. There's threads on the forum with details if you're into that stuff. Summary is, ignore LR's stupid 15k change interval and change the oil at 5k-7.5kmi with normal service, with top-quality synthetic 5W-20 or 0W-20... if you're picky, use oil that meets the formal JLR spec. For severe service (i.e., towing, or extended city driving) cut those intervals in half. Bonus: You need an LR-specific scanner like the IID Gap tool to reset the service reminder. There's no way to reset it without the proper tool. If paying an indy shop to do oil changes, ask them if they have the proper tool.
For the leak, if it's coming from the front passenger corner of the engine, look at the vacuum pump area below the alternator. There was a recent thread discussing this. My engine has a leak here, I'm going to replace the pump seal when I change the oil in the next couple of weeks.
Side note: There's a lot of drama & discussion on what oil to use, and what change interval. There's threads on the forum with details if you're into that stuff. Summary is, ignore LR's stupid 15k change interval and change the oil at 5k-7.5kmi with normal service, with top-quality synthetic 5W-20 or 0W-20... if you're picky, use oil that meets the formal JLR spec. For severe service (i.e., towing, or extended city driving) cut those intervals in half. Bonus: You need an LR-specific scanner like the IID Gap tool to reset the service reminder. There's no way to reset it without the proper tool. If paying an indy shop to do oil changes, ask them if they have the proper tool.
gsxr
Full Access Member
I agree. It also makes me wonder if an custom / aftermarket dipstick could be fabricated to fit down that tube!
I agree. It also makes me wonder if an custom / aftermarket dipstick could be fabricated to fit down that tube!
I can't see why not . The cable style (like on my Honda) would fit fine as is. Just need to determine the length of wire cable needed.
cperez
Full Access Member
I would buy that whether or not it was integrated with a modified cap or just came as the wire with some kind of grip or handle. Just keep it with the oil change supplies in my garage. I bet it would sell like hotcakes.
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