eljefe
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good job!!
2014/2015 LR4 Brake pad wear
- Thread starter tucsontom
- Start date
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jwest
Full Access Member
So if they were hardly worn, why did you want to give away $ for new ones in the first place?
two reasons. first, the inside edges were slightly worn more. second, and the main reason...they were 60 bucks each, and i already had them off. figured why not. if it saves me from having to remove it all again on account of them warping or wearing down, it was worth the money to me.
Needless to say, OEM next time, only if they're down to the 17mm discard spec.
jwest
Full Access Member
Sorry but, guess you "got what you paid for" 
I would actually have expected $60 rotors to suck in some way or another. Even if you hadn't gotten the weird feeling, lots of dust or something else, possibly not very good stopping power or wearing out fast.
Cheap is generally "cheap"...
There are several high quality aftermarket rotors though so it's not as simple as only buying factory and when you say "OEM", that's not "genuine". There are online sources for much discounted "genuine" as well as true oem.
I would actually have expected $60 rotors to suck in some way or another. Even if you hadn't gotten the weird feeling, lots of dust or something else, possibly not very good stopping power or wearing out fast.Cheap is generally "cheap"...
There are several high quality aftermarket rotors though so it's not as simple as only buying factory and when you say "OEM", that's not "genuine". There are online sources for much discounted "genuine" as well as true oem.
Sorry but, guess you "got what you paid for"
Cheap is generally "cheap"...
There are several high quality aftermarket rotors though so it's not as simple as only buying factory and when you say "OEM", that's not "genuine". There are online sources for much discounted "genuine" as well as true oem.
Agreed. I've used this brand before on other vehicles without issues, so wasn't overly concerned. But in any case, you're right...you generally get what you pay for. On a vehicle like this, I can only surmise that it is not tolerant of "cheap" parts. Next time, I'll likely go with the genuine Land Rover rotors from Atlantic British as I've read plenty good things about them.
jwest
Full Access Member
I would also urge you to check out Rovers North.
GermanRoots
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My 2013 is at 28,000 miles and light came on. Having OEM rotors and pads put on all 4. Dealer is going to charge me $1,400. Sound reasonable?
jwest
Full Access Member
Depends on what you like spending on labor and what is included in that quote (100% brake fluid flush or just basic bleed/top off, or none at all?):
http://www.roverparts.com/nxt/?page...+Discovery+4&Category=BRAKES&Subcategory=Kits
http://www.roverparts.com/nxt/?page...+Discovery+4&Category=BRAKES&Subcategory=Kits
Unless you have driven the ever living crap out of it, I highly doubt you need pads and rotors on all 4 corners. As you can see in the link jwest provided above, you can purchase all of that for about $900. So is $500 for labor crazy to you? Your call. How handy are you? I wouldn't consider myself a master tech by any means, and a few hours of work in my garage with basic tools and I was done. Are you getting any vibration or shaking when you hit the brakes, or are they just telling you that? If you're not, I'm willing to bet all you need is a set of rear pads. So, basically for about $150, maybe $300 total if you do the front too, you can put about a grand back in your pocket.
But again...it all comes down to your appetite to do your own work and how much your money is worth to you. For me, it was worth it to take a crack at it...and it paid off.
But again...it all comes down to your appetite to do your own work and how much your money is worth to you. For me, it was worth it to take a crack at it...and it paid off.
Quijote
Full Access Member
$1400 for a full brake job is the most reasonable fee I've read in a while. Usually I read stuff like $1K+ for pads or $2k+ for a full brake job, which is nuts.
$500 of labor would be worth it for me (no more though) because it gets you to build a relationship with the dealer, there is some warranty involved, and you do avoid a bit of an annoying job on a very heavy car that is tough to lift.
But a full brake job likely takes only 2 hours max - especially on a newer car where the rotors haven't been stuck on for 6 years and everything is rusty.
For me, having a full-size hydraulic lift and good tools, I would pay no more than $3-400 for labor.
I do think $900 is a lot for parts. My 911 Turbo parts are $1300. And those are enormous, high performance parts. My 3-series BMW parts used to be somewhere around $500 if I remember correctly (and they lasted 40-50k miles - like most). So yeah, for parts that don't last particularly long, the LR4 has an expensive brake habit.
$500 of labor would be worth it for me (no more though) because it gets you to build a relationship with the dealer, there is some warranty involved, and you do avoid a bit of an annoying job on a very heavy car that is tough to lift.
But a full brake job likely takes only 2 hours max - especially on a newer car where the rotors haven't been stuck on for 6 years and everything is rusty.
For me, having a full-size hydraulic lift and good tools, I would pay no more than $3-400 for labor.
I do think $900 is a lot for parts. My 911 Turbo parts are $1300. And those are enormous, high performance parts. My 3-series BMW parts used to be somewhere around $500 if I remember correctly (and they lasted 40-50k miles - like most). So yeah, for parts that don't last particularly long, the LR4 has an expensive brake habit.
