who has the most miles

[kwlr3]

2005 HSE with 126,000 miles, owned since new November 2005,

Wear and tear items: Original bearings, new front struts, one set of upper and lower front control arms, tie rods, thermostat, MAF sensor, 3rd set brakes pads, 2cd set of rotors, 2cd compressor, 3rd set of tires (needs new soon), engine coolant hoses, all scheduled maintenance.

Things replaced that are really annoying: left and right front door latch, hood latch sensor, gas tank door latch, 4th battery (will need #5 soon), repaint of hood and roof, new headliner and sun visors, drives seat pad, dash pad, 3rd windshield cowl, exterior A-pillar trim on both sides, upper windshield trim, front door seals, 3rd set of hood letters,

All in all an above average cost to maintain but it still rides very well. Not a squeak or rattle anywhere, if fact I think it is more quiet today than when new as the seats don't rattle any more. I've learned to clean the intake every year and drivability for a vehicle with this many miles is first rate. I plan on going for 20 years and 250,000 miles.

 

[Houm_WA]

Hmmmm not sure that data point on the 464k mile diesel engine is good for us with petrol.

I've been through a front strut, a few compressors and rear diffs. Other than that it's been the common stuff, LCAs, thermostat, EPB actuator, rear hatch prob....original front rotors though! Rears were only replaced because the EPB wasn't bedded in properly (dealer paid).

 

[PaulLR3]

That bird chirping before strut up and shut off sounds like a rear differential motor going bad , that sits on top of the diff. case.providing that you have a locking rear diff.

Thanks thorgal, I do have the locking rear diff. The sound is coming from that area so that must be it.

 

[Houm_WA]

Paul, can you please post a recording of the chirping for our future reference?

 

[PaulLR3]

I recorded it on my iPhone but that format isn't supported here. If anyone needs it, send me a private message and I will email it to you.

 

[toddjb122]

I'm at 190,000 on my 2005.

I think I still have my original compressor (I don't recall every going in for that unless the dealer just did it as part of something else). I just had to put in a new front diff and then the U-Joint. I don't recall any major failures other than the tailgate latch cable being really f*cking annoying until I had them repair it the right way, and then the usual bushings, control arms, tie rods.

My parking break module seems to be going, but I'm told it's an expensive repair and I find if I just don't use the parking brake (except when I'm supposed to use it on hills and such) it doesn't give me any faults.

I honestly didn't think I'd keep the truck this long, but it's running solid and people are always amazed when I tell them it is a 10 year old vehicle with 190K on it. Once LR dealt with all the software and sensor issues, it's proved to be very well built. Heck, I probably would have replaced it by now if either the LR5 was out or the LR4 came in the same color I have. (hate the new green that replaced the Tonga) Then again, price escalation on the new ones may prove to be a deterrent...we'll see.

 

[cannonball55]

dang... and i thought i was getting high mileage reaching barely 87k.... haha

 

[trickblue]

I had just under 200,000 miles on my 2005 when I traded it last October. Never had to replace anything but the compressor. The engine still ran great and I got 20 mpg coming back from Colorado to Texas a year and a half back.

It was finally time to work on that front end, and since the car had little monetary value I traded it in rather than hang $4,000 on it.

Now driving a 2008 Black on Black LR3 with 96,000 miles... runs great...

 

[Houm_WA]

@Todd, which U-joint???

@trickblue: what sort of front end work was needed for $4000?

 

[toddjb122]

@Todd, which U-joint???...

My mechanic showed it to me, but my description will suffer a bit since I didn't do the work...rod from the steering goes into a joint that transfers your input to the wheels (or more likely the power steering unit). This was frozen up. One axis would turn, one would not. So I'd get turning resistance when the joint was forced around the top and then it'd be easy. Sorry, that's all I got for you...