2013 LR4 Suspension Compressor
- Thread starter RoverMike
- Start date
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LB Bill
Full Access Member
One school of thought is that using quality parts (OE or OEM) to begin with, might help to at least minimize that (and the frustrations).
Or you can really play with fire and do what I did and buy an Amazon Warehouse pump for $60 that someone else returned and cross your fingers. It came in a bag that looked like it had been dropped from the back of a truck. The dessicant was spilled all over the place and making a mess. Hence pulling apart the dryer on it and realizing that the dessicant canister and dessicant was a clear weak point. $6 for some silica dessicant, and we're back in business. Even then, the design of the filter and the "retaining mesh" is questionable, but will probably work if the spring is seated properly. It not OEM quality, though, to put it mildly. They "value engineered" what they could. Still, the motor probably won't fail, the piston and seal probably won't fail, leaving the bearings and soldering as the other possible weak points. I'm sure at some point it will fail (probably prematurely), and it will be interesting to see when that is... If not, $400 saved. MOST (but not all) of the bad reviews for the Chinese pumps are people griping it's not the right pump.. Well, yeah, yours was replaced with an AMK, Mr. Genius Amazon Reviewer...
Now, would I ever pay a mechanic to put on a $130 compressor when the OEM Hitachi is less than $400? Doubtful. If you can wrench it on yourself though, I think it's worth a shot.ugmw177
Well-Known Member
when my sons's Lr4 was having compressor issues [hitachi original, i believe]. the mount was broken in two and the pump was clearly struggling as PO ran it with a buggered up front block for a while, i think. the front would drop within 2 days sitting. Anyhow, while i was sourcing an oem compressor, i purchased a CCP special from somewhere known as RX Luckies for about $120 to get him back up and running. Put the compressor and new bracket on and it has been running just fine for 20k miles and 1.5 years. I have the oem new hitachi sitting on the shelf. I did notice the knock off has smaller gauge wiring than the oem and it is a bit louder [buzzy] but in a pinch it will probably get you through for a while or longer as long as the rest of the system is up to *****
BigBriDogGuy
Full Access Member
In full disclosure, I just replaced my cheap Chinese suspension air compressor last night and this morning with a replacement the Chinese company covered under warranty. The original one gave out at the start of the week and I was showing "Only Normal Height Available". Just finished up the install. Seems to be working (at least for now). They sent me the new one and didn't charge me a dime. One of the first real mechanical jobs I've done on the LR4 (or ever). I watched all the videos and went real slowly, carefully. It wasn't too big of a deal and now that I have done it and know what is involved, I can see it being a pretty routine swap out in the future. I understand I should go OEM or with the genuine Hitachi and I will once this one dies. For me, it was an opportunity to do something myself on my own rig, develop some mechanical competence, and a sense of accomplishment and ownership that can only come with "sweat equity". There is an impossible hidden bolt high up on the mounting bracket that attaches to the frame and I took the advice of one video mechanic and slotted the mounting hole to allow me to slide it over the started bolt. That was great hack and I never would have been able to get that bolt back in without that tip.
Attachments
I can't remember what I've used to get to that top bolt, but I got it fairly easily.
It was either a ratcheting box end, a wobble extension, or a flexible extension.
Then again, I have AMK, and the mounting bracket is a little different than Hitachi.
It was either a ratcheting box end, a wobble extension, or a flexible extension.
Then again, I have AMK, and the mounting bracket is a little different than Hitachi.
CRYA
Full Access Member
Having done it, and now with the hack, what's your thinking on if this could be done in the field on a prolonged excursion should a compressor fail and you're carrying a spare? Sounds like it could be fairly possible, maybe a half day, but won't be stranded if out in the desert for example.
I could do an AMK in probably less than an hour and a half. It's one of those jobs that takes you far less time to do a second time than it does the first.
Only issue would be having something you feel safe lifting the vehicle (jackstand, jack, etc.) and crawling a little underneath while the suspension is deflated with the compressor removed.
Suppose if you are somewhere rocky, you could stack up a few piles of rocks and put the driver's side wheels on them before you start.
Only issue would be having something you feel safe lifting the vehicle (jackstand, jack, etc.) and crawling a little underneath while the suspension is deflated with the compressor removed.
Suppose if you are somewhere rocky, you could stack up a few piles of rocks and put the driver's side wheels on them before you start.
If your valve blocks are in proper operating condition, pull the eas fuse, and you can remove the compressor without deflating the system. You still want some kind of fail safe beforebgetting underneath though.
BigBriDogGuy
Full Access Member
I'm greener than grass.
For me, it's "safety first". I was on a level concrete slab with jack stands supporting the frame in front and behind the compressor. I did remove the rear wheel to give me better access and I slid that flat under the frame in the unlikely event the whole thing collapsed there would at least be something to stop it from totally collapsing on me. Personally, I wouldn't attempt it as a field repair if I could find a way to limp it out.
My experience (and that's all I can relate) is that when the compressor died, the suspension didn't collapse. There was enough pressure to keep it in normal mode, but it did lower slightly over next few days. By the time I was able to do the swap out, it was between normal and access height. Given all that, I'd try to drive out in normal mode and get it someplace where I could safely repair it.
For me, it's "safety first". I was on a level concrete slab with jack stands supporting the frame in front and behind the compressor. I did remove the rear wheel to give me better access and I slid that flat under the frame in the unlikely event the whole thing collapsed there would at least be something to stop it from totally collapsing on me. Personally, I wouldn't attempt it as a field repair if I could find a way to limp it out.
My experience (and that's all I can relate) is that when the compressor died, the suspension didn't collapse. There was enough pressure to keep it in normal mode, but it did lower slightly over next few days. By the time I was able to do the swap out, it was between normal and access height. Given all that, I'd try to drive out in normal mode and get it someplace where I could safely repair it.
